巴库大学孔子学院支教漫记

朱奇琪

唐代诗人刘皂写过一首旅居怀乡的七言绝句：“客舍并州已十霜，归心日夜忆咸阳。无端更渡桑乾水，却望并州是故乡。”去岁金秋，我去阿塞拜疆巴库大学孔子学院支教。关山万里，离乡十月，完成支教后在今年盛夏回安徽合肥、复返故乡海宁。回望阿塞拜疆首都巴库，有类似的感觉。有对该国首都巴库若干“乡情”之怀念。

肩负使命远赴丝路古城

在亚欧大陆的交汇处，在里海的西岸和高加索山脉的东南部有一个面积为8.66万平方公里的国家叫阿塞拜疆。这个国家崇拜火，在很多地方可以看到各种各样的长明火台;国内盛产石油，石油产业促进了整个国家的现代化发展。其首都巴库有“小迪拜”之称，是古代“丝绸之路”上的一座名城，也是当下“一带一路”建设中十分重要的节点城市与合作伙伴。然而我和很多人一样，在未踏入这片土地之前，对这个“名不见经传”的国家一无所知。2016年初秋，我在合肥的安徽大学文学院就读“对外汉语”硕士生第二学年，经过考试合格，通过国家汉办的“汉语教师志愿者”项目来到了巴库，成为巴库国立大学孔子学院的一名志愿者教师。

2016年9月4日，我和同行的志愿者们乘坐飞机抵达阿塞拜疆，飞机还未降落时我就看到了里海，以及一片广袤的土地。眼下见不到绿色，我心里不禁有了一丝忐忑，担心这个穆斯林国家会不会物资匮乏，物价昂贵，也担心自己会不会因为文化差异而不适应。但在巴库的街头漫步三五天后，这些困惑就随着里海的风烟消云散了。巴库是一个古老与现代完美结合的城市，巴库最著名的景点便是它的古城，这座始建于12世纪的古建筑位于市中心繁华地带，它让我想到了北京的紫禁城。

往外走是沙俄殖民期间的巴洛克式建筑，现在已成为市民购物娱乐之地，再往外就是高楼耸立的新城。我所住的公寓，工作的学校就在那里。我们在巴库最主要的交通是地铁和公交车，地铁的主要干道是前苏联时期的产物，挖得非常深，乘电梯一眼望不到头，不过电梯速度也比中国快很多，由于我不会俄语，通过英语的沟通，出门选公共交通是最佳的选择。

在巴库生活了一段时间不久，我知晓了此行增派七八名志愿者教师、扩大巴库孔子学院教育阵容之缘由。中国与阿塞拜疆建立外交关系已有24年，彼此友好相处。2015年该国总统阿利耶夫访问中国，受到了热烈欢迎，与我国国家领导人会谈中达成重要共识，签署了一批合作文件。就在我们到达该国的三个月前，中国国务院副总理张高丽应邀访问该国，落实上年两国国家元首会谈的具体任务，除了能源、交通、基础建设等以外，还就扩大“教育、文化和旅游”等方面丰富和拓展了诸多项目，签下了相应的备忘录。所以，在我们一批新的孔子学院志愿者脑海中，可以说补上了“国家使命”的责任感。

寓教于乐传播中国文化

我在巴库待了十个多月，每一天我都很充实。在巴库大学的孔子学院我第一次以老师的身份站在讲台上，那时的紧张和激动我到现在都不能忘记。还记得我所带的一个中学生班。我带班时已有大部分学生达到HSK（中国汉语水平考试）三级，上课用汉语进行教学基本无障碍。可是，我从来没有接触过外国孩子，刚开始不知道如何交流，学生根本不听我的话，上课乱跑，讓他们写作业也直接说不想写，这让我很头疼。但后来我了解了中学生的学习特点和心理后，就能较好的掌控班级，按进度实施教学工作，一个半小时的一节课中我会预留15分钟做游戏，让学生们通过游戏巩固本节课所学知识，也可以通过游戏激发他们学习汉语的热情。比如上课前75分钟，学生表现好就可以玩游戏，表现不好还是上课，学生们就会自我管理，他们特别喜欢玩“词语接龙”、“拼音词语连连看”、“跳七默写”等游戏，每次都乐在其中。

我还教授一个成人起点班，班级成员都是大学生和在职工作者。这个班级刚成立时学员完全是零起点，经过十个月的共同努力，学生们都有了极大的进步，可以和老师用汉语进行日常交流。让我感动的是，这些学生除了完成自己繁忙的工作外，还会抽出时间参加孔子学院的活动，比如书法课，周末文化沙龙，“中文歌曲大赛”，“诗歌朗诵比赛”等，可见他们对学习汉语有着极大的热情。

孔子学院除了教授汉语外还承担着传播中国文化的使命，所以我们经常举办和参加文化活动。印象最深刻的是去年9月中国大使馆举办的“迎中秋晚宴”，孔子学院需要筹备一个节目，可是当时我们才到巴库不久，准备时间只有短短几天，经过志愿者老师们日以继夜的排练，《茉莉花 扇子舞》表演得非常成功，后来我们还将这个具有中国民族文化特色的舞蹈教给了阿塞拜疆学生。

支教岁月让我明显成熟

徜徉在古老的街头你能感受到生活的惬意与安详，穿梭在地铁的人群里你能感受到生活节奏的欢快，潮流的时尚。我在巴库只生活了十个多月，这些日子里我对巴库的认识从一无所知到渐渐熟悉。

阿塞拜疆有自己的语言，他们的语言和土耳其语相近，当然也有不少人会说俄语和英语，所以日常交流没有什么问题。

初次走进巴库国立大学孔子学院的那天仿佛就是昨天，转眼我已经告别了巴库。每次有人提到它，我都会想起在巴库发生的种种，第一次见到学生时我的心情既激动又忐忑，第一次看到学生登台表演时我比学生还紧张，生怕错过什么。在孔子学院的十个多月里，我有了明显的转变，不仅是从学生到老师的身份转变，更是从跟随者到引领者的责任转变。国家汉办给热爱汉语教学事业的志愿者提供了一个历练的平台，使我们积累了实践经验。当我们行走在巴库的街头时，时常会听到当地人用中国话“你好！”跟我们打招呼;当路人问我们为什么来阿塞拜疆时，我会很自豪地告诉他们“我是孔子学院的汉语老师”;当别人和我们聊天中表达出对学习汉语的兴趣时，我会激动地留下联系方式，推荐他们来孔子学院学习汉语。

感謝在巴库大学孔子学院的这一年，它让我这名青年学子度过了一段崭新的岁月。

In 2016， the second year into my “teaching Chinese as a foreign language” graduate course， I qualified as a teacher to teach Chinese as a foreign language. Through the arrangement of Hanban （the Office of Chinese Language Council International）， I came to teach as a volunteer at Confucius Institute at Baku State University.

My colleagues and I flew to Baku on September 9， 2016. Before the airplane touched down， I caught a view of the Caspian Sea and the land through the porthole window， but there was not a touch of green anywhere. At that moment I worried again about my assignment here： would I fail to adjust to the cultural differences？ Would things be expensive and short of supply in the Muslin country？ After getting to know the city in the first few days， I was greatly relieved. Baku is a city where the modern and the ancient come together perfectly. The Old City， constructed in the 12th century and inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site， reminded me of the Forbidden City in Beijing.

My colleagues and I were sent to Baku largely because of the new expansion of Confucius Institute at Baku State University. The relations between China and Azerbaijan are pretty good thanks to the diplomatic ties set up 24 years ago. Three months before our arrival， Vice Chinese Premier Zhang Gaoli visited Azerbaijan to follow up the implementation of projects. One memo the two countries had inked was about a series of projects of education， culture and tourism.

Looking back at the 10-month stay in Baku， I feel satisfied in many ways. Every day of the stay was great. I was nervous and excited on the first day at the institute. My students were from middle schools. As they had reached HKS level three， I found there was no language barrier in classroom conversations. But I had never taught foreign kids. They didnt listen to me， moving around in the classroom freely and saying no to my face after I gave them homework. But I soon found ways to grab their attention. I awarded them with game time if their studies turned out to be fruitful. They loved word games very much.

I also taught an adult class. Most of the students were college students and office workers. They started from zero. After ten months of hard studies， they were able to chat with me about everyday life. They took enthusiastic part in events such as calligraphy， weekend saloon， Chinese song competition， poems recitals at the Confucius Institute， showing their great enthusiasm to learn about Chinese culture.

A Confucius Institute does more than teach Chinese language. It also does its best to spread Chinese culture. So was the case with the institute at Baku State University. We often held cultural events and activities. Shortly after our arrival， we were engaged in staging a show at the Moon Festival Banquet at Chinese Embassy. We didnt have much time， but we did our best. Jasmine Fan Dance was a sensation at the banquet. We later taught our Azerbaijani students to do this show.

The teaching assignment in Baku ended fast. All the days there were like yesterday. I transformed from a graduate student to an experienced teacher， from a follower to a leader. Hanban gave me a platform to mature. Local people in Baku greeted us in Chinese Ni Hao. Asked why I was in Azerbaijan， I always said proudly that I was a Chinese language teacher at Confucius Institute. Whenever someone said he or she was interested in learning the Chinese， I would excitedly give them phone numbers to contact the institute.