缔 造 巴 黎 的 人

文/乔纳森·格兰西 译/陈岩

缔 造 巴 黎 的 人

文/乔纳森·格兰西 译/陈岩

In the 19th Century George-Eugène Haussmann1（1809—1891），法国政治家、拿破仑三世时期的重要官员，因主持了1853年至1870年的巴黎重建而闻名。completely redesigned and rebuilt the French capital. Jonathan Glancey2英国皇家建筑师协会的荣誉院士，英国《卫报》建筑与设计栏目的编辑人。describes how the city of today was born. 19

Paris remains one of the world’s most visited cities, and of those tens of millions drawn to its remarkably compact centre each year, the Marais3玛黑区介于现在的巴黎第三区与第四区之间，没有经历奥斯曼的改造，是巴黎最古老的街区，也是巴黎当今最时尚前卫的地方。district exerts a magnetic pull.Fashionable among aristocrats before Louis XIV4（1638—1715），波旁王朝的法国国王。—the “Sun King”—moved his court from Versailles51682年路易十四把宫廷从巴黎迁至凡尔赛，1789年10月又被迫迁回巴黎。, this pungent66 pungent刺鼻的。quarter of narrow streets and jumble7jumble杂乱的一堆。of historic houses and courtyards sank into near-squalor8squalor肮脏；邋遢。in succeeding centuries before its renaissance9renaissance复兴。in recent decades as a charming labyrinth10labyrinth迷宫。of fashion boutiques, cafés, restaurants, museums and galleries.

[2] Walking through these lively and endearing medieval streets, it seems almost incredible that they were once considered the enemy, to be demolished11demolish拆毁，拆除（建筑物）。in haste—and not, it has to be added, by the German military,who had less than healthy designs on Paris at various times between 1870 and 194512这期间法德之间发生过三次战争。. No, it was none other than the Emperor of France, Napoleon III13（1808—1873），1848年当选法兰西第二共和国总统，1852年称帝，建立法兰西第二帝国，1870年普法战争失败后退位。, and his Prefect144 prefect（法、意、日等国家的）地方行政长官；省长；县长。for the Seine15塞纳省是法国历史上的一个省份，1790年设立，1968年撤销。, George-Eugène Haussmann—who died 125 years ago—who had districts like the Marais in their sights.

[3] Like much of Paris, however,the Marais stank to high heaven in 1853 when the emperor instructed Haussmann to rebuild the odorous city along grand and salubrious lines16along/on (the) … lines〈非正式〉按……方式。.Entire medieval quarters of the city were to be razed with modern avenues taking their place. “It was the gutting of177 the gutting of 原意为掏空，这里理解为由内而外焕然一新。Paris,” wrote Haussmann proudly in hisMemoires.

Demolition man

[4] A public administrator with no training in architecture or urban planning, Haussmann turned Paris into a titanic18titanic巨大的。building site for 20 years.Even though he was forced to resign in 1870 as the emperor faced growing criticism for excessive expenditure,work on Haussmann’s plan continued until the late 1920s.

[5] Conceived and executed in three phases, the plan involved the demolition of 19,730 historic buildings and the construction of 34,000 new ones. Old streets gave way to long, wide avenues characterised by rows of regularly aligned19align排列整齐。and generously proportioned neo-classical apartment blocks faced in creamy stone.

[6] Along with imperious20imperious盛气凌人的。avenues,Haussmann engineered grand squares,city parks modelled on London’s Hyde Park21海德公园占地160万平方米，是英国伦敦最知名的公园。, a comprehensive sewage system,a new aqueduct22aqueduct人工水道；高架渠。giving wide access to fresh water, a network of underground gas pipes for lighting streets and buildings, elaborate fountains,grandiloquent23grandiloquent夸张的，夸大的。public lavatories24lavatory厕所；盥洗室。and rows of newly planted trees.

[7] This urban infrastructure was matched by bold new railway stations—Gare du Nord and Gare de L’Est255巴黎北站和巴黎东站位于巴黎市区北部的第10区，两座火车站之间相距300米。—the opulent26opulent豪华的；阔气的。Paris Opéra27巴黎歌剧院（Opéra de Paris）又称为加尼叶歌剧院（Opéra Garnier），是由查尔斯·加尼叶（Charles Garnier ）于1861年设计的，将古希腊罗马式柱廊、巴洛克等几种建筑形式完美地结合在一起，规模宏大，精美细致，金碧辉煌，被誉为是一座绘画、大理石和金饰交相辉映的剧院。, new schools,churches, two dozen city squares, a brace of28a brace of 一对。ambitious theatres at Place du Châtelet29夏特莱广场取名自同名的一座古城堡，广场西侧是巴黎最大的剧院夏特莱大剧院，东侧是市立大剧院。, the giant, iron-framed Les Halles30=Les Halles Centrales中央市场，位于巴黎市中心的第1区，自12世纪起就是新鲜食物的批发市场。1970年代，巴黎政府开始对城市进行改造，中央市场迁到了巴黎南郊的朗吉（Rungis）。food market, (Èmile Zola31（1840—1902），法国自然主义小说家和理论家，自然主义文学流派创始人与领袖。’s“Belly of Paris”32《巴黎之腹》（法语书名Le Ventre de Paris），左拉1873年出版的小说，以巴黎蔬菜鱼肉市场为背景，描写巴黎这个大都市每天所消耗的各种食物，它们的来源分配，以及贩卖和购买这些食物的人的故事。), and the sensational network of a dozen avenues radiating from the Arc de Triomphe33凯旋门，拿破仑·波拿巴为纪念打败俄奥联军于1805年下令修建。at the core of Haussmann’s Place de l’Ètoile34星形广场，奥斯曼环绕凯旋门修建的圆形广场，1970年改名戴高乐广场。.

[8] Since renamed Place Charles de Gaulle, l’Ètoile is every foreign driver’s nightmare experience: well,you try heading into fast and furious35fast and furious（游戏、表演等）生动活泼的，喧哗的。traf fi c coming at you from 12 directions simultaneously while attempting to negotiate366 negotiate通过，越过（险要路段）。, or fight, your way around Napoleon Bonaparte’s monumental victory arch.

Rip it up37 rip up 撕碎，撕毁。 and start again

[9] No other major city, before or since, has been transformed so radically during peacetime. It employed huge numbers of skilled and unskilled workers along with architects, engineers and landscape gardeners. It restored the city to health after long decades of cholera and typhus38cholera and typhus霍乱和斑疹伤寒，曾在法国肆虐。. It gave Parisians of all classes parks to play and relax in.

[10] Theoretically, its broad avenues allowed government troops free movement to maintain public order at times of barricades, riots and other disturbances. And, at a time when the city doubled in size and its population trebled39treble（使）成为三倍。, it gave Paris a sense of40a sense of 一种……感觉。unity together with an air of411 an air of 一种……氛围。bourgeois prosperity.

[11] What still seems astonishing is that so much of the city was demolished and reordered on what seems like the whim42whim心血来潮；突发的奇想。of an emperor and his Prefect of the Seine, Haussmann. Napoleon III, however, was following in the footsteps43follow in the footsteps of 效法，步……的后尘。of his uncle, Napoleon Bonaparte, who had equally grand designs on Paris. “If only the heavens had given me twenty more years of rule and a little leisure”, he wrote in exile on Saint Helena after the Battle of Waterloo, “one would search vainly for the old Paris; nothing of it would remain but vestiges444 vestige遗迹。.”

[12] As the 20th-Century historian René Héron de Villefosse put it,thinking in particular of Haussmann’s transformation of the Île de la Cité45西岱岛，巴黎市中心塞纳河中的两座岛屿之一，也是巴黎城区的发源地，著名的巴黎圣母院和圣礼拜堂都位于该岛。, “the old ship of Paris was torpedoed by Baron Haussmann and sunk during his reign.It was perhaps the greatest crime of the megalomaniac46megalomaniac妄自尊大的。prefect and also his biggest mistake… His work caused more damage than a hundred bombings.”

We’ll always have Paris

[13] When in 1944, as Allied forces marched to liberate the city and Adolf Hitler gave orders for the wholesale demolition of Paris, the German military governor Major General Dietrich von Choltitz refused to obey.Paris was simply too beautiful to violate. Napoleon Bonaparte, Napoleon III, Baron Haussmann and Le Corbusier had not shared such precious German sentimentality.

[14] Although bombastic47bombastic言过其实的；夸夸其谈的。, Haussmann’s monumental plan remains impressive, not least because he achieved so much so quickly to such a high,uniform standard. A public administrator by training, Haussmann was a commanding figure who, although a talented musician, was no sentimentalist.He even demolished the house he was born in—55 rue de Faubourg-du-Roule48巴黎第八区下辖的区块之一。—despite fond memories of childhood.

[15] Of his first meeting with Haussmann in 1853, Napoleon III noted, “I had in front of me one of the most extraordinary men of our time;big, strong, vigorous, energetic, and at the same time clever and devious49devious不诚实的。,with a spirit full of resources.” The partnership between the ambitious French emperor and his vigorous prefect was a truly remarkable one.Within a year of Haussmann’s dismissal for overspending, however, Napoleon III had fallen after France’s defeat in the Franco-Prussian War50普法战争（1870—1871），普鲁士王国（德意志帝国）同法兰西第二帝国之间的战争，这次战争使普鲁士（德国）完成德意志统一。. Released from a newly uni fi ed Germany, he went into exile at Chislehurst, Kent where he died in 1873.

[16] After his dismissal, Haussmann was elected Bonapartist deputy for Ajaccio, Corsica, birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. He found time to write three volumes of self-serving51self-serving自我吹嘘的。memoirs. These might be largely unread today, yet his memory lives on powerfully today in the new Paris he shaped—and in cities like Barcelona that followed his lead—if not in the narrow, but much-loved streets of the Marais. ■

世纪时，乔治-尤金·奥斯曼对法国首都做了全新设计和彻底改建。本文作者乔纳森·格兰西讲述了今日巴黎的诞生过程。

巴黎一直是世界上最受游客青睐的城市，每年几千万的游客慕名来到以布局紧凑而著称的巴黎市中心，对他们来说，玛黑区有种磁石般的吸引力。这片散发刺鼻气味的街区窄巷遍布，旧宅古院无序错落，在“太阳王”路易十四把宫廷从凡尔赛迁过来之前，这里曾是贵族们眼中的时髦之地。之后，这里却逐渐败落，在几百年的时间里变得愈发脏乱，直到最近几十年才重新焕发光彩，像一座诱人的迷宫，聚集着时装店、咖啡馆、餐厅、博物馆和画廊。

[2]走在这些热闹讨喜的中世纪街道上，很难相信曾有人视其为眼中钉，急欲拆之而后快——得多说一句,要这么做的可不是德国军队，尽管在1870到1945年间，他们也曾多次对巴黎有过非常不合理的规划。是的，正是法国皇帝拿破仑三世和当时的塞纳省省长、125年前离世的乔治-尤金·奥斯曼，盯上了玛黑区这样的地方。

[3]不过，1853年，玛黑区也和巴黎大部分地方一样臭气熏天，当时，拿破仑三世下令奥斯曼按照干净整洁、气派典雅的方针重建这座气味难闻的城市。整个城市的中世纪街巷都要被夷为平地，由现代化的林荫大道取而代之。奥斯曼曾在《回忆录》里自豪地写道：“巴黎由内而外焕然一新。”

毁灭者

[4]奥斯曼，这位毫无建筑和城市规划专业背景的地方行政长官，将巴黎变成了一个大工地，施工时间长达20年之久。因为经费超支，皇帝受到的指责越来越多，1870年，奥斯曼被迫离职，然而依照他的方案所进行的改造却一直持续到了1920年代后期。

[5]改造方案的设计和执行分为三个阶段，包括拆除19,730栋旧建筑和新建34,000栋大楼。原本的小街巷变成了又长又宽的林荫大道，道路两旁矗立着一座座排列有序、间距开阔的新古典主义公寓楼，外立面砌着奶油色石头。

[6]除了霸气的林荫大道，奥斯曼还规划建设了大型广场、以伦敦海德公园为原型的城市公园、完善的下水道系统、能大量供应淡水的人工水道和为道路和建筑提供照明的地下煤气管网，以及精致的喷泉和豪华的公厕，另外新种了一排排树木。

[7]与这些城市基础设施相呼应的是引人注目的新火车站——巴黎北站和巴黎东站、富丽堂皇的巴黎歌剧院、新学校、教堂和24座城市广场，还有夏特莱广场上的两座恢宏的剧院、钢铁框架结构的大型中央菜市场（被爱弥尔·左拉称为“巴黎之腹”），以及12条大道构成的壮观路网，由奥斯曼星形广场中心的凯旋门向四面辐射而出。

[8]自从更名为戴高乐广场，星形广场就成了每个国外驾驶者的噩梦。环绕着拿破仑·波拿巴为纪念战争胜利而修建的凯旋门，车辆同时从12个方向疾驰而来，你既要试着融入车流中，又要想方设法顺利通过。

推倒，一切重新开始

[9]从来没有哪个大城市在和平时期经历过如此彻底的改造。大量的技工和非技工，以及建筑师、工程师和景观园艺师，参与了这场改造。这使被霍乱和斑疹伤寒困扰了几十年之久的巴黎重现勃勃生机。各个阶层的巴黎人也都有了可以休闲娱乐的公园。

[10]理论上来说，一旦发生街垒战、暴动或其他骚乱，维持公共秩序的政府军队可以在宽阔的林荫大道上畅行无阻。而且，当时城市面积扩大了一倍，人口数量增加了两倍，正因为有了这些大道，巴黎才像一个和谐的整体，呈现出一派资产阶级欣欣向荣的景象。

[11]仍有些不可思议的是，好像只是皇帝和他的塞纳省省长奥斯曼一时兴起，巴黎那么多地方便被拆除重建。但实际上，拿破仑三世是在继续他叔叔拿破仑·波拿巴的事业。后者对巴黎有着同样宏大的设想。滑铁卢一役后在圣赫勒拿岛上流放时，他曾写过：“如果上天能让我再多统治20年并有那么一点闲暇时间，人们将再也找不到原先的巴黎，除了遗迹什么也不会留下。”

[12]像20世纪历史学家勒内·埃龙·德维尔福斯在评价奥斯曼对西岱岛的改造时所说：“巴黎这艘历史悠久的航船被奥斯曼男爵在其任内用鱼雷炸沉了。或许这是这位狂妄自大的行政长官犯下的最大的罪行和错误……他造成的破坏一百次轰炸也比不了。”

巴黎永存

[13] 1944年，同盟军前来解放巴黎，阿道夫·希特勒下令炸毁整个城市，德军统领迪特里希·冯肖尔蒂茨少将拒绝了该命令。巴黎那么美怎能被破坏。德国人身上这种难得的感性，拿破仑·波拿巴、拿破仑三世、奥斯曼男爵和勒·柯布西耶都不具备。

[14]尽管有些夸大，奥斯曼里程碑式的规划仍旧令人惊叹，一个重要的原因就在于他在如此短的时间里按照统一的高标准，完成了如此多的工作。作为科班出身的行政长官，奥斯曼是个强势人物，虽然还是个颇有天赋的音乐家，却从不会感情用事。他甚至连自己出生时的房子也拆掉了，尽管这栋位于福布尔杜鲁莱区55号大街的房子承载了他儿时美好的回忆。

[15] 1853年拿破仑三世第一次见到奥斯曼时就意识到：“我面前的这个人是这个时代最杰出的人物之一，高大强壮、活力十足、精力充沛，同时又精明、狡猾且足智多谋。”这位野心勃勃的法国君主和他精力旺盛的行政长官之间的合作确实不同凡响。奥斯曼因为超支被撤职还不到一年，拿破仑三世便因为法国在普法战争中失利而倒台，直到德国统一后才被释放，之后便流亡于英国肯特郡的奇斯尔赫斯特，1873年在此地离世。

[16]被撤职后，奥斯曼当选为科西嘉阿雅克肖地区的波拿巴主义代表，这里也是拿破仑·波拿巴的出生地。他花时间写了三卷回忆录聊以自慰。如今这些回忆录基本上无人问津，然而他留下的印记，尽管在玛黑区深受喜爱的羊肠小道上找不到，但在他亲手打造的新巴黎——以及效法而建的巴塞罗那等城市——却一直深深铭刻，始终不灭。 □

（译者曾获第五届“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛优秀奖）

The Man Who Created Paris

ByJonathan Glancey