古董毛衣时髦文艺范儿

Text by Simon E Smith & Madz Translation by Leo Pictures by Matthew Szechenyi, Getty, Macaron

古董毛衣时髦文艺范儿

Text by Simon E Smith & Madz Translation by Leo Pictures by Matthew Szechenyi, Getty, Macaron

DON’T SWEAT IT, IT’S VINTAGE

As the 1980s makes a resurgence in the UK, fashion lovers are flocking to vintage stores to snap-up sweaters and cardigans by the pound.

文艺青年从不满足于主流穿搭，而古董毛衣不仅撞衫几率小，还能给人沉稳、智慧的形象，实乃小清新的冬季最爱。

Christina Aguilera Top∶ Navy and white striped v-neck sweate

Hilary Duff wears black denim skin tight jeans and a thick wool sweater

Muji sweater with vintage cable-knit pattern

In fashion, vintage refers to an item of clothing that's at least 20 years old and hails from a standout decade. Basically, any memorable items between the 1920s and 1980s could be deemed vintage. Each year, an item from the past finds its way into the present and once again becomes popular. With the colder months approaching, cardigans and sweaters are becoming all the rage.

Jessica Cunningham is the owner of the online fashion company Prodigal Fox. She said, “Now, vintage is starting to make a come back with turtle necks and chunky knits. People don't want to look mainstream and vintage clothing can look very stylish and can give the newer, on trend items a bit of an edge.”

Nowadays, vintage clothing can be split into two sections. First there is true classic vintage, which refers to authentic old items of superior quality, fabric and design. Jessica explains, “These items are hand-picked and can be pretty niche and pricey– think trompe l'oeil sweatshirts or Kaffe Fassett cardigans.”

Second is the style of the cheaper vintage clothing stores where the focus in on the appearance and cost as opposed to the quality and authenticity. Here, sweaters and cardigans can be bought by the pound. These pieces are “vintage-esque” or“vintage inspired” as true vintage is too expensive to be sold by weight. This group tends to be quirky and enjoys many aspects of the vintage lifestyle such as going to vintage teashops, cafes and Brica-Brac stores.

Linda Powell has been working with garments and pattern cutting for the past 30 years, she explains the materials and patterns used in vintage sweaters and cardigans∶ “Fair Isle and argyle are typical patterns you'd see on many vintage sweaters, particularly those golfing ones from the 1950s. Another popular pattern is cable stitching. This can be seen on jumpers where thick chains are knitted into the design. Think fisherman.”

“There's also the very fine gauge sweaters of the 1930s and 1940s or the various types of wool like Alpaca and cashmere. Sometimes designers mix in a bit of Lycra to add longevity to the garment.”

The recent accessibility and visibility of all things vintage has made it the go-to style for an individual yet unique look. From Kate Moss to Alexa Chung, celebrities and supermodels have been snapped in cable-knit cricket jumpers and chunky crochet sweaters. Yet, it's safe to say their items probably weren't bought at your average thrift shop.

To avoid looking like a pastiche of a particular period, many tweak their outfits by adding modern elements. Fashion and beauty expert Gina Akers advises∶ “It's all about key pieces. You can't just cover yourself in vintage. You definitely have to plan your outfit.”

If you're wearing a chunky cardigan then layering up might be a good move. This means wearing a shirt underneath a jumper then a cardigan and scarf on top paired with a little denim skirt or even leather pants. As for the future Gina sees the 1980s as making a comeback. “When you look at the shops now, there's a lot of 80s stuff filtering in∶ oversized V-neck cardigans are back with big block schemes like rectangles and squares. The colours aren't as loud or brash as the 80s, which can only be a good thing.”

There're also cultural indicators that suggest Gina may be right. The hugely successful American TV show ‘Stranger Things' set in the 80s is encouraging viewers to dress like their favourite characters. And remember the Rubik's cube? This year the brand released a completely new version of the iconic cube called the Rubik's Spark.

Amidst the speculation and excitement of what's to come, there is one certainty when it comes to vintage sweaters. Regardless of how fashionable you think you are, there's no escaping the inevitability of the classic Christmas jumper. Whether it's a giant reindeer or a mince pie, that's one trend that no one is happy to see return.

Olivia Palermo seen during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017

From Kate Moss to Alexa Chung, celebrities and supermodels have been snapped in cable-knit cricket jumpers and chunky crochet sweaters.

Taylor Swift

泰勒斯威夫特、超模凯特·莫斯都喜欢穿复古风毛衣

Kate Moss

在时尚圈，所谓的“古董装”，是指那些至少有20年历史的老旧服装。大体上，产自上世纪20年代至80年代、具有一定纪念意义的服装统统可以算作古董装。几乎每一年，都会有一些古董服装再度成为流行时尚。冬意渐浓，古董套头毛衣和开衫毛衣也开始风靡起来。

时装公司Prodigal Fox的老板杰西卡·康宁汉表示∶“古董高领毛衣和粗棒针毛衣开始再度走俏。人们不再满足于主流穿搭，而古董装一样可以给人时髦的印象，甚至比新款潮装更胜一筹。”

古董装大致可以分为两类。一类是货真价实的经典古董服装，其特点是质量优、布料好和设计精良，而且出自正品。对此，杰西卡也有说法：“这些服装都是经过精挑细选出来的，可能比较小众，而且价格不菲——比方说错视感卫衣或Kaffe Fassett开衫毛衣。”

另一类是廉价二手服装店售卖的古董装，这类古董装强调外观、性价比和真伪。在这类服装店，花点小钱就能买到的古董套头毛衣和开衫毛衣要么具有古董风，要么是仿品，因为正品古董装往往很贵，是不会以称重的方式售卖的。喜欢这类古董装的人士往往钟爱古董生活方式的方方面面，比如爱逛古董风茶馆、咖啡店和售卖各种旧时物件的古董店（例如位于捷克首都布拉格的Bric-a-Brac古董店）。

琳达·鲍威尔是一名从事了三十年服装和图案裁剪的资深服装人。她对古董套头毛衣和开衫毛衣的材质和图案有着独到的见解。她说：“费尔岛针织图案(Fair Isle)和菱形格纹(Argyle)是古董毛衣上最常见的图案，尤以上世纪50年代以后生产的高尔夫毛衣最多。绞花针织图案也十分流行，比如带链条图案的套头毛衣，很像渔夫毛衣。”

“此外还有上世纪三、四十年代的细针距毛衣和各类羊毛衫(如羊驼毛衫、山羊绒衫)。为了使服装更耐穿，有时服装设计师会加入一点莱卡面料。”

近来随处可见的古董风使这类服装成为时髦人士追求个性的必备之选。从超模凯特·莫斯，到大众时尚宠儿艾里珊·钟，许多时尚名流都曾穿着绞花针织板球毛衣或粗棒针钩织毛衣出现在镜头中。当然啰，穿在他们身上的服装大概不是你在普通二手店里买得到的。

很多人为了避免刻意穿出特定时期的样子，会用一些现代元素搭配古董服饰。时尚美丽达人基娜·阿克斯建议道：“穿得好看不好看，主要那一件很关键。并不是每一种穿法都适合你，适当规划是必要的。”

比如你外穿一件粗棒针开衫毛衣，有层次感的搭配可能就比较合适。具体来说，就是在羊毛衫内穿一件衬衫，羊毛衫外搭配开衫毛衣和围巾，下身搭配小牛仔裙或皮裤。对于未来趋势，基娜也认为上世纪80年代着装风格正在回潮。“现在服装店里冒出了很多80年代风格的服饰，比如说印有方块图案的超大V领毛衣。”

有文化信号表明，基娜所言不虚。《怪奇物语》是一部以上世纪80年代为背景的美国电视剧，该剧今年7月一经播出便取得了巨大的成功，它鼓励观众模仿自己喜欢的剧中人物的穿着打扮。

时尚潮流会如何演变，我们猜测也好，兴奋也罢。但就古董毛衣而言，有一点是确凿无疑的：不管你自认为有多么时尚，挑选一件经典的圣诞毛衣是你无论无何也避免不了的。 无论人们喜欢的是印有大驯鹿的款式，还是印有百果馅饼的款式，无人会乐见其过时。

READERS' SNAPSHOTS读者街拍

YOKI, STUDENT

Tokyo, Japan

方格拼布感大地色毛衣

Earth tone patchwork sweater Purchased in 2016

The idea∶ The sweater's rectangle patterns are reminiscent of Piet Mondrian's neoplastic paintings, which use rectangles to reflect a sense of space and structure. It goes well with wide leg pants, a cloth shoulder bag and a light-coloured beret.

搭配心得：方块让人联想到蒙德里安的画作，用方块体现空间和结构感。适合配上布袋子、宽腿裤、浅色贝雷帽。

WEN, FILM CUTTER

Beijing SOHO

棕褐色竖条纹毛衣

Brown vertical striped sweater Purchased in the 1990s

My mom “inherited” this sweater from my grandma, which I would sometimes slip on.

The idea∶ The minimalist mix of this sweater with a dark wool skirt not only keeps one warm in winder days, but also provides a smart look. Matching the outfit with a vintage-inspired rose flower buckle waist belt makes one look slimmer and adds a bit of fun to an overall look.

妈妈在姥姥去世后“继承”了她心爱的毛衣，我有时候会借来穿。

搭配心得：冬日里选用一些深色系的毛裙搭配这件毛衣，看起来干练又保暖的极简搭配。再系上亮色复古玫瑰花腰带，可以营造出收腰感，同时为整体look增添趣味。

MATTHEW, DOCUMENTARY FILM MAKER

Dongshankou, Guangzhou

波普色系紫色四角星花纹毛衣

Pop art style purple argyle sweater Purchased in 2010

I purchased this sweater by weight at a second clothes shop in Osaka, Japan. （称斤卖、数字多少价格就多少）

The idea∶ With contrasting colours and a touch of humour, the purple sweater paired with the yellow socks creates a visual impact and makes one look refreshed in harsh winter days.

搭配心得：用黄色袜子与紫色毛衣形成撞色和诙谐感，营造出视觉冲击，在睡意朦胧的冬天让人看起来很精神。

MADELINE, WRITER

Shanghai

奶油色小花针织毛衣开衫

Cream knit cardigan with small floral prints Purchased in 2008

The idea∶ A white shirt underneath the cardigan paired with suit trousers creates a handsome yet individual look.

搭配心得：配以西装风长裤、白衬衫，营造出帅气的个性感

Next month, we are going to talk about men's coats. Send us some photos of yourself wearing a coat if you like∶ madelineweng@hotmail.com