食用菌与人类健康（三）*

Mary Jo Feeney, Johanna Dwyer, Clare M. Hasler-Lewis, John A. Milner, Manny Noakes, Sylvia Rowe, Mark Wach, Robert B. Beelman, Joe Caldwell, Margherita T. Cantorna0, Lisa A. Castlebury, Shu-Ting Chang, Lawrence J. Cheskin, Roger Clemens, Greg Drescher, Victor L. Fulgoni III, David B. Haytowitz, Van S. Hubbard, David Law, Amy Myrdal Miller0, BartMinor, Susan S. Percival, Gabriela Riscuta, Barbara Schneeman, Suzanne Thornsbury, Cheryl D. Toner, Catherine E. Woteki, Dayong Wu

食用菌与人类健康（三）*

Mary Jo Feeney1, Johanna Dwyer2, Clare M. Hasler-Lewis3, John A. Milner4, Manny Noakes5, Sylvia Rowe6, Mark Wach7, Robert B. Beelman8, Joe Caldwell9, Margherita T. Cantorna10, Lisa A. Castlebury11, Shu-Ting Chang12, Lawrence J. Cheskin13, Roger Clemens14, Greg Drescher15, Victor L. Fulgoni III16, David B. Haytowitz17, Van S. Hubbard18, David Law19, Amy Myrdal Miller20, Bart
Minor21, Susan S. Percival22, Gabriela Riscuta23, Barbara Schneeman24, Suzanne Thornsbury25, Cheryl D. Toner26, Catherine E. Woteki27, Dayong Wu28

8　消费者喜好与食用菌感官性状

2011年，美国人均消费1.8千克食用菌，其中鲜菇为1.3千克[65]。一项对12 618名美国消费者进行的全国抽样调查结果显示，2012年，有41%的家庭购买过食用菌，至少消费5.53亿美元[66]。其中，有三分之二的户主年龄小于45岁，31%是有孩子的家庭，而59%是二人家庭；80%是白人，7%为非洲裔，6%为华裔。在所有的家庭报告中，有91%是非西班牙人。年收入＞6万美元的家庭，其食用菌消费支出占47%。根据美国烹饪学院和哈佛大学公共健康营养系所发起的“菜单的演变”，综合健康可持续食材的选择，味道，不同的烹饪方式，人口结构变化的趋势和良好的商业模式，催生出了味道浓郁，以植物为主体的菜系。食用菌以其独特的感官和烹饪功能特性，可以帮助美国人走向更加健康的素食道路。尤其是双孢蘑菇中谷氨酸（与味精不同）和核糖核苷酸的含量很高。谷氨酸和某些5'-核糖核苷酸是具有鲜味的活性化合物，被称为食物的第五味。尤其是谷氨酸钙，可以显著改善低钠食品的风味[67,68]。

公众被建议“将你盘子里的水果和蔬菜减半”“跳过盐”和“经常吃植物蛋白食品”[69]。这些将对制定既能促进人体健康又能改善食物风味的烹饪策略提出挑战。具体来说，新兴的趋势不是要求消费者必须在放纵和健康之间做选择，而是可以通过烹饪方式和菜单的创新，实现健康、风味、功能性的有效融合。

食用菌的一项新兴作用似乎具有这种融合功能，既能大量减少肉类的摄入，又能在消费者中得高分（数据未公开发表，由美国烹饪学院的A. Myrdal Miller在2013年9月10日召开的食用菌与健康峰会上提出）。由13位成员组成的描述性分析小组对四种烹饪方式（蒸、煎、灼、烤）进行评估，以筛选出可以提供最好感官性状的烹饪方式。6种墨西哥卷饼Taco（①100%牛肉馅，②50%牛肉+50%白色双孢菇馅，③20%牛肉+80%白色双孢蘑菇馅，另三种分别为在①②③的基础上降低 25%的钠含量）接受了该描述性分析小组和147名（43%为男性）年龄在18～65岁的消费者的评估。

结合了因子分析和分类方法的偏好映射分析，旨在评估市场细分的偏好性及其驱动因素，根据消费者的不同喜好和选择，将其分为4个集群（数据未公开发表，由美国烹饪学院的A. Myrdal Miller 在2013年9月10日召开的食用菌与健康峰会上提出）。第1个集群（n=35），首选100%牛肉馅Taco和全部选择全盐食谱。集群1中的大多数消费者习惯以肉食为主，属于中等收入阶层（年收入5万～10万美元），且没有经常运动。第2个集群（n=49）喜欢每一个食谱，喜欢肉和蘑菇融合得最好的。对他们这些“美食家”来说，味道是最关键的。该集群包括一些年轻妇女，是受过高等教育和相对富裕的一类人。第3个集群（n=27）不喜欢100%牛肉馅的，而喜欢以蘑菇为主馅儿的Taco。这一集群的消费者以素食为主，不喜欢食用肉类。他们中的少数人属于高收入阶层（>10万美元），多数是单身（74%）和学生（44%），而且他们经常锻炼。第4个集群（n=36）消费者只喜欢100%牛肉馅的全盐食谱。他们同时食用植物性食品和鸡肉，以获取有限的食物享受。该集群消费者男性多于女性，年龄较大，既有较低收入（<5万美元）又有较高收入（>10万美元）阶层。

这些结果表明，食用菌在部分替代混合食品中的肉类而不损害食物的感官效果方面具有很大的潜力。为了获得成功，我们应该基于人口学特征、消费心态学、惯例和意识形态对消费者偏好与细分市场的替代配方进行战略规划。

然而，需要研究来阐明如何通过这种方法改进消费者的饮食习惯。通信研究也是解决由新的食物方案带来的挑战的一种方法，在某种程度上来说，它是准确的，也是令人信服的。

9　探索食用菌在饮食建议中的作用

几年来，食用菌已在一系列饮食指导中被提及。在2010年的美国膳食指南中，食用菌被推荐为“最佳”维生素D来源之一[70]。美国膳食指南是联邦营养政策的基础，部分基于科学证据的系统评价[71]。食用菌正通过各种渠道进入营养推广阶段，如美国营养学院、美国全国营养月、加拿大卫生部的饮食指南，以及新北欧饮食，都在大力宣扬“乡野植物和食用菌”的营养价值[72]。尽管如此，仍然有人指出白色蔬菜，如土豆、菜花和蘑菇是“被遗忘的营养源”[73]。

《美国国家健康与营养调查》（NHANES，2001—2010年）分析了食用菌消费与营养摄入和饮食质量之间的关系，以测定2005年美国成人的健康饮食指数（HEI）[74]。与非食用菌消费者相比，食用菌消费者摄入了更多的能量、蛋白质、维生素B1、烟酸、叶酸、铜、硒，总糖和添加糖更低。同时，其健康饮食指数的总得分也较高，具体来说，HEI的食用菌得分高于总的蔬菜组分、深绿色或橘色蔬菜、全谷物和牛奶的得分，而食用菌组分的钠含量更低。

其中一些数据表明，经常消费含有某些食用菌的食物[74]，也可以借此推广其他健康食物。这种策略符合由单一性食物向整体性膳食结构转变的新型公共卫生和营养推广趋势。例如，美国人不喜欢吃深绿色或橙色的蔬菜，但是将食用菌与之搭配就增加了对其的摄入量。同时，美味的蘑菇可以使肉食主义者减少对肉类的摄取。如前所述，蘑菇也可以降低钠的摄入量。

公众获取饮食指导的另一个来源是查看贴在食物上的营养标签[75]。但是目前还没有关于食用菌麦角硫因的标签声明。关于麦角硫因每日摄入量的营养成分声明还未明确；同样的，美国食品和药物管理局（FDA）还没有对其进行审核。

10　总体研究需求

伴随着对研究成果进行有效负责沟通的重要性的讨论，本次食用菌与健康峰会确定了许多研究需求。对人类的探索研究需要广泛观测免疫功能、肠道菌群、认知、牙周炎、癌症机制、身体组成和体重的变化。需要研究确定具体的食用菌种类消费引起实质性生物学和健康反应所需的数量、时间和作用模式，并了解食用菌对健康影响的特异性。同样，与其他食用菌种类进行比较试验，或许可以鉴定出哪些是生物反应的最关键成分。

在个性化营养的尖锋时代，需要确定谁会是给定的食用菌消费模式中的最大受益者，而谁又不是。敏感性的生物标记可以被识别。饮食、基因组和健康的相互作用是减少全球非传染性疾病风险的基础。

亟需开展营养学的国际公私协作，以解决这些研究需要。协作和协调允许共享资源和开放研究。目前，data.gov是一个为西方八国集团国家提供大量美国研究平台的门户网站。

最后，社会必须向着可持续和保障食品安全的方向发展。全球对水、土地和能源需求的不断增长，将对食品和水资源构成严重挑战。

总之，在几千年的烹饪和药用经验基础上，食用菌与健康关系的研究在过去的十年中得到了快速的发展。潜在证据表明，食用菌及其生物活性成分，尤其是麦角硫因、维生素D、β-葡聚糖和硒，对免疫功能、肠道功能和体重管理具有积极的作用。初步证据显示，食用菌具有减少慢性疾病的作用，包括降低患癌症、肥胖症、阿尔茨海默病和牙周炎的风险。这些证据都还处于研究的起步阶段，当前的问题仍然是集中在食用菌如何以及可能对谁有促进身体健康作用的方面。公共健康营养信息日益增多，包括指导如何向更健康的食物摄入方式转变同时保证持久的美食享受，食用菌似乎起到了可有效改善饮食模式健康性的一个杠杆作用。

11　致 谢

蘑菇理事会和全体作者对致力于食用菌与健康峰会论文集的我们亲爱的朋友和同事 John A. Milner博士的逝世致以沉痛的悼念，对他在本次峰会和本手稿的领导和洞察力方面所作的贡献，以及其孜孜不倦地投身于营养科学研究的精神致以真诚的感谢。特别感谢对本手稿提供帮助的以下各位：Christopher Davis，来自美国农业部经济研究所市场和贸易经济部门；Michael Kalaras，宾西法尼亚州立大学博士后；Ilya Rahkovsky，来自美国农业部经济研究所食品经济部门；Peter Roupas，来自澳大利亚联邦科学与工业研究组织（CSIRO）动物食品与健康科学部。

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*作者所在单位请见本刊2015年第一期中的同篇名（一）