地球上的寒极——奥伊米亚康

Lia Folkson-Arti

This morning its actually a relatively mild –31℃for Yakutia. The Republic of Sakha （Yakutia） proudly boasts the coldest inhabited village on Earth， the city of Oymyakon in the north of the Republic. And， indeed， some 40% of the Republic lies above the Arctic Circle and is covered by 1）permafrost.

This is a republic of extremes with temperatures ranging from on average over –40℃ up to plus 38℃in summer. It is a sharply continental here， the climate， and thats largely due to the Republics position in the most far eastern and northern part of Siberia.

This may look like a winter wonderland， but with temperatures dropping to –70℃， your 2）eyelashes frost over if you stand and stare at it for too long. Were in the coldest village on Earth， and it feels like it.

Brrr. To say its cold here is an understatement. Its like living in a freezer. My nose has gone red， my nostril hairs are frozen over， my hair has turned to ice， and even with these gloves on， I can feel my fingers starting to go numb. Im in danger of turning into an icicle， so Im gonna have to go and thaw out.

But locals seem to take this weather in their 3）stride. Tatiana tells us this is the best time of year to make a much-loved delicacy， frozen raw river fish， a kind of Yakutian sushi.

Tatiana（via translator）： This method preserves the fish so we can keep it for a long time， and it seals in the vitamins.

The spine-chilling world record of –71℃ was measured at this weather station in 1926， and placed Oymyakon firmly in the Guinness Book as the coldest inhabited settlement. 4）Meteorologist Valery tests the ice thickness on the river twice a day， a chance to taste the fresh but Arctic water. He tells us this village is in a valley surrounded by two high mountains that trap cold winter air and stop warmer air getting in. Thats what causes the big chill.

Valery Vinokourov（via translator）： I personally recorded a temperature of –63℃ a few years ago. It was so cold that my spit froze before it hit the ground.

Across Yakutia， the ground is permanently frozen all year round， a soil condition called permafrost， which covers 65% of Russia. At the Permafrost Institute in Yakutsk， were taken on a tour of the underground research lab， where scientists investigate the frozen soil. They say its as hard as concrete.

Valery（via translator）： These ice samples are marked according to their properties. This sample is a piece of permafrost. The 5）streaks of ice and soil grow according to age， like the circles in a tree 6）stump.

But back above ground in the Oymyakon region， it takes some effort to keep warm， especially as weve broken down. In this part of the world， drivers set off in pairs. Stuck alone on an isolated road is a far from pleasant prospect.

But there are some locals who are used to a life of isolation. Nicolai was sent to Yakutia as a prisoner during Soviet times. He toughened up to the cold， and since then hes stayed. And so， without electricity， sanitation or heating， Nicolai lives with the land and with his 20-year-old wife. Nicolai（via translator）： This is my love. Shes the only person who gives me joy and warms my heart.

Here its a daily challenge to defeat yet embrace the polar 7）climes， at times proving a psychological battle against the elements.

今天早上在雅库特，气温比平常算是相对温和的了，只有零下31摄氏度。萨哈（雅库特）共和国因拥有世界上最寒冷的居住地而自豪，那就是位于这个共和国北部的奥伊米亚康市。事实确实如此，这个共和国大约有40%的土地在北极圈内，被永久冻土层覆盖。

这是一个有着极端气温的地方，它的平均气温跨度从冬天的零下40摄氏度到夏天的38摄氏度。这是非常典型的大陆性气候，因为这个共和国地处西伯利亚的最东端和最北部。

这一切看起来像是冬天的奇妙仙境，可是，当气温下降到零下70摄氏度，如果你站在室外看风景的时间太长，你的眼睫毛都会结冰。身处世界上最寒冷的村庄，我们确实能感觉到这一点。

哦哦，如果只是说这里冷，那就太轻描淡写了。这里给人的感觉就像是住在了冰箱的冷冻层里一样。我的鼻子已经冻成了红色，鼻毛结了冰，头发也变成了冰条，甚至于我虽然戴了手套，但还是能感觉得到手指在变麻木。我快变成一根冰柱了，现在我得去把自己解冻。

可是当地人却是泰然面对这种天气。塔提雅娜告诉我们，这里有一种类似寿司的雅库特美食，是冰冻的河鱼寿司，人人都喜爱。现在正是一年当中制作这种美味最好的时候。

塔提雅娜（通过翻译）：这种保存的方法可以让鱼放很长时间，还能保存它里面的维生素。

1926年，这个气象站测到了让人听后脊背发凉的世界最低温度——零下71摄氏度，《吉尼斯世界纪录大全》也因此毫无争议地把奥伊米亚康列为世界上最寒冷的人类居住区。气象学家瓦莱里每天两次测量河面冰层的厚度，他可以借此尝到新鲜但却冰冷的北极水。他告诉我们，村子在山谷里，被两座高山包围。因此，寒冷的冬天气流都被锁在山谷里，而暖流又无法进入。这就是这里异常寒冷的原因。

瓦莱里·维诺库罗夫（通过翻译）：我自己在几年前曾经录到零下63度的气温。当时实在是太冷了，我吐的口水还没有落地就成冰了。

在雅库特，土地一年到头都是冻土，这种地质状况叫永久性冻土层，俄罗斯65%的土地被这种冻土层覆盖。我们参观了雅库茨克的永久性冻土层研究所的地下研究实验室，科学家在那里对冻土进行研究。他们说冻土就像混凝土般坚硬。

瓦莱里（通过翻译）：我们根据这些冰块样品的特性给它们作标示。这个样本是一块永久冻土，上面的脉冰和土壤与它形成的时间相关，就像树墩上的年轮一样。

但在奥伊米亚康的地面上，要保持身体暖和还是得花点功夫，尤其是我们的车抛锚了。在地球上的这个角落，司机通常都是成对地出车，因为要是一个人被困在偏僻的路上，那可不是什么好玩的事。

不过呢，还是有些当地人已经习惯了这偏远地区的生活。尼古拉在前苏联时期作为罪犯被放逐到雅库特。面对寒冷，他变得坚强，此后他一直留在这个地方。于是，他与20岁的年轻妻子在没有电力供应、没有卫生设施和供热设备的条件下，在这片土地上生活。

尼古拉（通过翻译）：这是我的挚爱。她是惟一让我快乐，温暖我心灵的人。

在这里，既要战胜这种极地气候，又要欣然接受它，每天都是一场挑战。有的时候，它更意味着要与大自然打一场心理战。翻译：丁一

背景小知识

奥伊米亚康的冷

奥伊米亚康是俄罗斯东北部西伯利亚山地中的一个盆地，也是一个村庄。它地处北纬63.27°的高纬度，属于典型的亚寒带针叶林气候。据说，当地的渔民从冰面下把鱼打上来后，仅需30秒钟鱼就会冻上，僵硬得如同一块板子。一年里奥伊米亚康最盛大的活动就是庆祝“寒冷极点节”。

为什么成为“寒极”？

纬度较高：大致位置是63°N，143°E，属于比较偏北的地区，因此该区得到的太阳辐射少。

海拔较高：海拔在2000米以上。

寒冷中心：盆地地形，气流不流畅，湍流交换弱。冬季地面散热快，又处于周围山地的环绕之中，冷气流沿着山坡下沉至盆地底部，使盆地底部更加寒冷。