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Millennia Music

2013-04-29byZiMo

China Pictorial 2013年9期

by Zi Mo

Hulun Buir Grassland, deep in the Inner Mongolia Auton- omous Region, is billed by China National Geography magazine as the most beautiful grassland in China. The best natural pasture in Hulun Buir, Barag Grassland is home to one of the oldest Mongolian tribes: the Barags.

From June to October, the boundless pasture features a mild climate and picturesque scenery. Cattle graze on grass stretching beyond the horizon while loud, melodic singing of herdsmen reverberates through the air, comprising a picture depicting ultimate harmony between man and nature.

In centuries past, the ancestors of the Barags led a nomadic life on vast grasslands between Khingan Mountains and Lake Baikal. During the Third and Fourth Centuries, the Barags mainly inhabited areas between the Onon River in the South and Lake Baikal in the North. At that time, they became a prosperous, powerful tribe, and called their chief “Barag.” Later, “Barag” became the name of the entire tribe, and the grassland they inhabited has since been known as Barag Grassland.

On Barag Grassland, Genghis Khan fought many battles to unify the Mongolian tribes. The area was also the last stronghold of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) as it was being overthrown by the Ming (1368-1644). Nowadays, the beautiful grassland is once again simply a pasture nurturing the Barag people from generation to generation. Over the millennia, locals have developed many profound legends and distinctive ethnic culture.

Budeg Ula, literally “holy mountain”in Mongolian, is a famous hill on the grassland. Legend goes that Genghis Khan and his army were forced to retreat during a military expedition to the West, and they hid at Budeg Ula. A heavy fog enveloped the hill, and enemy troops dared not attack for fear of ambush. After besieging the hill for three days and three nights, the enemy still couldnt find Genghis Khan and retreated. To show his gratitude to the holy hill, Genghis Khan swore that his offspring would come to worship it every year. Since 1738, a grand worship ceremony has been held there on the 13th day of the fifth lunar month and the 3rd day of the seventh lunar month. Local herdsmen swarm to the mountain to pray for blessings at a ceremony presided over by senior monks. Traditional sporting competitions such as wrestling, horseracing, and archery are also held at the gatherings.

In addition to vast grasslands, the area also features spectacular lakes and beautiful mountains. Known as the largest lake in Inner Mongolia and the fourth largest freshwater lake in China, Hulun Lake covers an area of more than 2,300 square kilometers. Surrounding it are numerous swamps and wetlands inhabited by various species of birds. Legend goes that Hulun and its twin lake, Buir, were a pair of sisters. They stored rainwater for herdsmen to feed their cattle, and eventually the sisters turned into lakes to perpetually irrigate the grassland.

Ih Ula, literally “big green mountain”in Mongolian, is located in New Barag Left Banner. The peak resembles a sitting camel. At its foot, the Hailar River zigzags through the grassland, and the ancient Xianbei tombs of the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-557), as well as surviving city walls dating back to Genghis Khans era, testify to the areas historical significance.

Tourists visiting Barag Grassland should not miss Dolod, or “spacious land surrounded by seven mountains” in Mongolian. The scenic resort features landscapes combining grasslands and forests. Along with lush grasslands accented by ponds and lakes, the locale also features boundless Scotch pine forests. Wild animals like deer, wolves, and boars are often seen in the forests, while red-crowned cranes, swans, and wild geese play in the water, and flocks of birds hover in the sky.

For those itching to experience the Mongolian lifestyle, the Barag Mongolian Tribe Resort is an ideal destination. There, yurts are named after Genghis Khan and his sons and generals, as well as other important figures in Mongolian history. Each yurt is unique in style. Tourists can roam the grassland on horse or camel and wear Mongolian clothes and boots. Around a bonfire, they can enjoy performances of Mongolian songs and dances while sipping milk tea and horse milk wine, eating roast lamb and hand-served mutton, and toasting local tunes.