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世界城市之旅

2009-09-24James

双语时代 2009年7期
关键词:圣彼得堡悉尼柏林

James

Tokyo

东京

Tokyo is crowded. Even coming from Chinese cities, hardly wide open spaces themselves, you'll feel pressed in on all sides, surrounded by an ever-surging crowd. It's no wonder that the Japanese invented the 'capsule hotel', with tiny rooms barely big enough to fit a man! The really cheap stay in internet bars – for the equivalent of twenty dollars or so, you can get a whole cubicle to yourself, sleeping in the chair.

东京是拥挤的。即使你来自本身几乎没有开阔空间的中国城市,也会觉得东京四周皆逼仄,被日益增多的人群所围绕着。难怪日本人发明了“胶囊旅馆”,房间小得最多只能容纳一个人!最便宜的是待在网吧里——花上二十美元左右,你就可以获得一个属于自己的包厢,然后在椅子上睡觉。

Originally a tiny little fishing village called Edo, it became the de facto centre of government in Japan after one of the Shoguns – the military leaders of Japan – built his castle there, and grew bigger and bigger, swollen by government and business. After the Meiji Restoration, when the previously powerless Emperors of Japan were returned to being heads of the country, the Emperor moved to Edo, renamed it Tokyo, and made it the official capital. Since then it's rapidly modernized along with the rest of the country.

东京原本是一个名叫江户的小渔村,后来一名幕府将军——日本的军事首领——在那里建造自己的官邸,之后它就成了日本政府实际上的中心。由于政府和商业的发展,它变得越来越大。明治维新之后,原本无权的天皇重新成为国家首脑,并搬到了江户,将此地改名为东京,将其作为正式的首都。这之后它和日本其他地方一样,迅速走向了现代化。

Sadly, Tokyo has few remaining ancient buildings. A devastating 1923 earthquake killed over a hundred thousand people and ripped apart many sites, and the Americans finished the rest off in WWII. The firebombing of Tokyo, when incendiary bombs were used to set alight old wooden buildings, killed 200,000 people; more than the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki combined. Only the Imperial Palace was spared, as the Americans were concerned about the risk of killing the Emperor. As a result the Palace buildings survived, although they're still mostly closed off to the public – walking tours allow visitors to see parts of these beautiful old structures, however.

说来遗憾,东京幸存的古建筑很少。1923年大地震导致10万多人丧生,并摧毁了许多古迹,美国又在第二次世界大战期间将其他一些古迹破坏。火烧东京之时,燃烧弹的目标是老旧的木制建筑,也造成20万人死亡;比原子弹轰炸广岛和长崎总共杀害的人还多。只有皇宫幸免于难,原因是美国人对杀害天皇有所顾虑。因此,皇宫里的建筑幸存了下来,虽然它们大多至今还不对公众开放,但是在导游的带领下,游客可参观这些美丽古建筑中的一部分。

In 1945, Tokyo was a devastated moonscape of a city, all ash and ruins, but by the Summer Olympics of 1964, it was a gleaming metropolis of steel and glass, shown off to the world by a newly proud, and economically booming, Japanese people. It used to be that you could see construction everywhere but now, after the 'Lost Decade' of 1997-2007 and the recent economic crash, many of the sites are deserted. For tourists, the city is a sight in itself, but Akihabara Electric Town (commonly known as just 'Akiha') is especially popular for young visitors; the equivalent of Beijing's Zhongguancun, it's a mecca for geeks, filled with electronics stalls, the latest software, and peculiar gadgetry. If you're more into seafood than silicon, however, the Tsukiji Fishmarket is the place for you. The Japanese fishing fleet is the largest in the world – if you look out from the coastline at night its thousands of glowing lights look like the shores of another country – and this is the first place their catch gets sold. Bargaining starts at 4 am every morning, and tourists are advised to wear rubber boots, as water sloshes everywhere as still live fish thrash about in their tanks.

1945年,东京是一座荒城,满目疮痍,一片废墟。但到1964年夏季奥运会时,它已经成为一座钢铁与玻璃铸成的耀眼大都市,恢复自豪感且日益富裕的日本人将其展示给全世界。曾经你到处可以看到建筑场景,但现在,经过1997-2007这“迷失的十年”和最近的经济危机,许多工地都已废弃。对于游客来说,这座城市本身就是一道风景线,但秋叶原电器街(通常简称“秋叶”)非常受年青游客的青睐;它相当于北京的中关村,是奇客们的圣地,到处是电子产品展台、最新的软件和奇异的玩意儿。但如果你喜欢海鲜胜过电子产品,那筑地鱼市正适合你。日本有着全世界最庞大的捕鱼船队,如果晚上你从海岸线抬眼望去,就会看到渔船上数千盏闪烁的灯光,像是在另外一个国度的海滨,而鱼捕捞上来以后也先在这里进行买卖。每天凌晨4点讨价还价声就开始响起,游客最好穿上胶鞋,因为仍活着的鱼在鱼舱里猛烈摆动,把水溅得到处都是。

Tokyo has various thriving subcultural scenes, with all the usual peculiarities of the Japanese. You can go to see thousands of people dressed up as their favourite anime characters in cosplay centres, play the latest arcade games, or check out Japanese punk or hip-hop artists in the many clubs. For those with a more traditional bent, the beautiful Ueno Park is an oasis of natural beauty in the middle of this urban frenzy, and has many fine museums. Unfortunately, like everything else in Tokyo, you'll be battling through the crowds to get there!

东京有着异彩纷呈、生机勃勃的亚文化,体现日本人一贯的特质。你可以到角色扮演中心看数千人打扮成他们最喜欢的动漫角色,在游戏厅玩最新的游戏,还可以到各色俱乐部看日本朋克和嘻哈艺人的表演。对于比较传统的人来说,美丽的上野公园就是这座癫狂都市之中的一处自然美的绿洲,这里还有许多优秀的博物馆。很可惜,就像东京的其它任何地方一样,你得奋力穿越汹涌的人流才能到达那里!

New York

纽约

New Yorkers are famous in the rest of America for being an arrogant, snobby bunch who don't care about the rest of the country. In fairness, this is pretty much true – but after all, they have a lot to be arrogant about. By any reasonable standard, it's the first city in America, and everything you could possibly want is there – as long as you don't mind paying through the nose for it. As a visitor, you won't have to worry about the sky-high cost of rent – when I lived there, nearly a decade ago, I was paying $1000 a month for a room barely able to fit a single bed.

对于美国其他地方的人来说,纽约人傲慢,势利,不关心国家其他地方是出了名的。说实话,的确是这样,但话又说回来,他们确实有许多值得傲慢的地方。从各方面来说,它都是美国第一城市,无论你想要什么它都有——只要你肯出钱。我在纽约时,大约十年前,一个月要交1000美元的房租,房间却小得仅能放下一张单人床——不过你要是去旅游的话,倒不必为高昂的租金犯愁。

Still, everything passes through New York at some point. Art, music, technology, finance, the city's got them all. For first-time visitors, the first place to check out is Times Square. It's disappointingly cleaned up from the good old days, when you could be accosted by a transsexual hooker or have your wallet stolen within a few minutes of getting off the bus, but it's still a fine spot to see New York life passing by. New York's a good walking city, partially because it's so horrible to drive in, and one of the things that makes it so is the numerous public parks. Central Park, a great green rectangle in the middle of Manhattan, is the best, you should wander down to Washington Square as well, located in Greenwich Village (normally referred to just as 'The Village'), the centre of New York's artistic (and gay) communities. You get first-rate buskers around there, as well as old men playing chess for money, and normally a surreal piece of performance art or two.

尽管如此,任何事物都曾在纽约留下它的印记。艺术、音乐、技术、金融,这个城市应有尽有。对于第一次去纽约的游客来说,要去的第一站就是时代广场。令人失望的是,它已经被肃清过了,在美好的往日时光,会有变性娼妓过来跟你搭讪,你下车之后才几分钟钱包就有可能被偷,但纽约的生活仍是一道美丽的风景。纽约是散步的好地方,部分原因是开车到那里是很一件很恐怖的事,另外一方面是因为纽约有很多公园。中央公园是其中的佼佼者,它位于曼哈顿中心地带,呈绿色的巨型长方形状。你还应该漫步至华盛顿广场,它位于格林威治村(通常简称“村”),是纽约艺术家(还有同性恋者)的聚集地。那里到处是一流的街头艺人,还有下棋赌钱的老人,通常还会有超现实主义的艺术表演。

New York also has spectacular museums. Perhaps the best is the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a far superior experience to most art galleries because of their dedication to putting things in context, rather than just hanging paintings on the walls. You'll see, for instance, a complete reconstruction of an Egyptian temple. The 'Met' specializes in older pieces, from Babylon to Picasso. If your tastes are more contemporary, you can visit the Guggenheim, or the Museum of Modern Art, both with astonishing collections of their own.

纽约还有蔚为大观的博物馆。最好的可能要数大都会艺术博物馆,在这里您所领略到的远胜于在大多数艺术展览中的见闻,因为它给你身临其境的感觉,绝非仅把画幅挂在墙上。比如,你会看到一座完整重建的埃及神庙。大都会艺术博物馆的藏品历史比较久远,从巴比伦到毕加索,应有尽有。如果你的口味比较现代,可以参观古根汉,或者现代艺术博物馆,这两个地方都有数目惊人的展览品。

The city's most famous tourist attractions, of course, are the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty. You have to take a ferry out to the Statue; a strange reminder that New York, where you can go weeks without seeing the sea, is essentially a port city at room. It seems disappointingly small at first, but fairly colossal when you're standing at the base. The Empire State Building – well, it's really, really tall, and that's about it, but it's a nice thing to have seen anyway. If you've got a morbid bent, you can go and check out the ruins of the World Trade Centre, where a new memorial is being constructed. We've barely scratched the surface of things to do here, but that's one of the joys of the city; there're always new things to discover.

这座城市最著名的旅游景点非帝国大厦和自由女神像莫属。要去自由女神像得乘船;给你一个你不知道的提醒:你在纽约可能呆上几星期都看不到海,但它的确是一座港口城市。自由女神像乍一看小得令人失望,但如果你站在雕像底部,就会觉得它十分庞大。帝国大厦——真的,非常非常高,仅此而已,不过也算是个好去处。如果你心理不太正常,可以去看看世贸中心遗址,那里已建成一座新的纪念馆。我们仅介绍了纽约的“皮毛”,但这就是这座城市的乐趣之一;总有新事物有待发现。

Berlin

柏林

If you're over thirty or so, your first memories of Berlin are of a divided city, cruelly split between East and West Germany. The Berlin Wall was one of the most infamous sites in the world, a notorious symbol of tyranny and an armed border that, in its four decades of existence, claimed at least 100 lives. It was torn down in a joyous frenzy in 1989, after the state of East Germany collapsed virtually overnight in the face of mass public protest and shouts from both Eastern and Western crowds of 'Wir sind ein Volk!' ('We are one people!') . The capital, which for the last forty years had been in sleepy, provincial Bonn, was moved back to Berlin, amid qualms from some Germans. Berlin, after all, had been the capital of Nazi Germany – but also the capital of the old, pre-Nazi Germany, and people were still proud of that heritage. The Reichstag, where the German Parliament used to sit and the Soviets triumphantly hung the hammer and sickle in 1945, was reconstructed as a bright, well-lit modern building, a symbol of the new, open Germany. The Wall itself is but a memory, though you can still buy chunks of it to take home.

如果你是三十多岁的人,那你对柏林的最早记忆是一座分裂的城市,被东德和西德残忍地分开。柏林墙是世界上最臭名昭著的景点之一,它象征着专制统治,还是一个有武装驻扎的边境,在它存在的40年间,有100多人在此丧生。1989年,东德几乎在一夜之间解体,在大规模公开抗议和东德与西德人群齐声高喊“我们是一个民族!”的情况下,柏林墙被狂喜的民众拆除。四十年间,德国(西德)首都都是在死气沉沉的边远小城波恩,如今终于又搬到柏林,却令许多德国人感到不安。柏林毕竟曾是纳粹德国的首都,但也是纳粹之前老德国的首都,人们仍然为这一遗产感到骄傲。国会大厦曾是德国议会所在地,1945年前苏联曾耀武扬威地将旗帜和镰刀插在它上头。重建之后的国会大厦是一座辉煌的现代建筑,象征着崭新而开放的新德国的。而今柏林墙只是一种回忆,不过你仍可以买几块(墙砖)回家。

Nowadays Berlin is a beautiful, prosperous city. It was bombed to pieces in WWII, but many of the buildings were solid stone, and so could be rebuilt afterwards. It's got a thriving nightlife, including a particularly good electronic music scene; Berliners like their music loud and repetitive. There are the normal museums and memorials, including many commemorating the city's Jewish heritage. The Jewish population today is small, but Berliners, like other Germans, feel understandably guilty about the Holocaust. Berlin was the centre of Kristallnacht ('Crystal Night', so-called because of the broken glass left on the pavement) from smashed windows in 1938, a vicious pogrom against the city's Jewish population, and many plagues and small museums commemorate the Jewish synagogues and businesses destroyed then – and the tens of thousands deported from Berlin to a horrific death in the concentration camps later. You'll also find small memorials elsewhere to other victims of the Nazis, from Communists murdered by SS thugs to the disabled people murdered in a so-called 'euthanasia' program.

如今的柏林是一座美丽而繁荣的城市。二战期间它被炸得断壁残垣,但许多建筑都是由坚硬的石头所造,因此可以重建。柏林的夜生活兴旺繁荣,有美妙绝伦的电子音乐表演;柏林人喜爱吵闹而重复的音乐。这里有普通的博物馆和纪念馆,其中许多是为了纪念这座城市的犹太人遗产的。现在当地犹太人不多,但柏林人跟其他德国人一样,理所当然地对大屠杀感到愧疚。柏林是1938年水晶之夜的中心(“水晶之夜”一词源于走廊上的碎玻璃),当时不计其数的窗户被砸碎。这是一项针对柏林犹太人的恶毒计划,许多小博物馆纪念当时被毁的犹太教会堂和商店——以及之后被从柏林驱赶到集中营受死的数万名犹太人。你在其他地方还会见到一些小的纪念馆,纪念纳粹受害者、被残忍的党卫军谋杀的共产主义者,以及被“安乐死”计划杀害的残疾人。

Berlin has notably beautiful parks, including the luscious green Tiergarten, where you can stroll among a miniature forest or take a boat out to islands in the lake. The Zoological Gardens, which have one of the widest ranges of species in the world, are also more than worth a visit if you like exotic animals. It also has some gorgeous churches, ranging from great cathedrals to small, intimate seventeenth-century chapels; even if you're not devout, they're fantastic works of architecture. The art scene is fun – you should check out the Kunsthaus Tacheles, a nightclub and art centre that shows off some of the best work of young Berlin performers. Spectacular graffiti is common, a tradition deriving from the old habit – in the West- of spray painting the Wall as an act of protest.

柏林有美丽非凡的公园,如芬芳滴翠的提尔公园,你可以在小森林里漫步,还可以在湖泊上泛舟至小岛。柏林动物园是全世界物种最丰富的动物园之一。如果你喜欢异域动物,这里就值得去参观一下 。柏林还有一些漂亮的教堂,从宏伟的大教堂到小巧私密的17世纪小教堂不一而足;即使你不是教徒,也可以欣赏其建筑之美。柏林的艺术场景也是趣味横生——你应该去塔赫勒斯艺术中心,这是一个夜间俱乐部,也是一个艺术中心,柏林年青艺人在此展示一些最优秀的作品。精彩的喷绘涂鸦随处皆是,这是老传统了——在西德——人们常在柏林墙上涂鸦,以此表示抗议。

Sydney

悉尼

For anyone coming from China, Sydney looks absurdly small.It's actually a remarkably big city in terms of land area; Australians like bungalows, and they like big houses and big gardens, so the suburbs sprawl for tens of miles, all the way from the coast up to the Blue Mountains. But it retains a feel as a city of villages. The city centre is small enough to walk across in fifteen minutes without trouble, and all the major shops are within a few minutes of each other. There are a dozen or so pleasant town centres within the city, though, of which the Centre is only one.

对于任何中国人来说,悉尼看起来都小得有点荒谬。但从土地面积来说,它其实是一座非常大的城市;澳大利亚人钟情于别墅,喜欢大房子和大花园,所以郊区绵延数十英里,从海岸一直延续至蓝岭。但它给人的感觉就是一座村落。市中心很小,只需15分钟就可以轻松穿越,所有主要店铺之间的距离都不过几分钟步行的路程。悉尼市内有十多个怡人的中心,但中心区只有一个。

Sydney's main attraction is the sea. Endless, glittering, it has to be one of the most beautiful ports in the world – it certainly has some of the finest beaches. Bondi Beach is the most famous, but there's a few dozen good ones. They fill up with swimmers, surfers, and sunbathers pretty fast in the summer, but you can always drive along the New South Wales coastline and find miles of gorgeous sand all to yourself. If you can't swim, don't worry – you can always paddle, and Sydney has excellent lifeguards to keep an eye out for those in trouble. Don't be put off by tall tales of marine horrors either; the great white sharks have been gone for ten years or so.

悉尼最吸引人的地方是海。大海广阔无垠、波光粼粼。悉尼港肯定算得上是世界上最美丽的港口之一,也有一些最漂亮的海滩。邦迪海滩是最著名的,但还有一些其他海滩也不错。夏天在此游泳、冲浪、沐浴阳光的人络绎不绝,不过你总可以驱车沿(着)新南威尔士海岸线,找到数英里的优质沙滩,并独自享受。如果你不会游泳,别着急——你可以划船,悉尼有优秀的救生员,专门负责看护遇到困难的人。也不要被荒诞的海上恐怖传说吓倒;大白鲨在大约十年前就已经没了踪影。

The harbour itself is expensive if you want to eat or stay there – indeed, Sydney isn't a cheap city as a whole – but you can always stroll along it for free, perhaps heading down from Centennial Park, often full of courting couples. Along the harbour you'll see two of Sydney's most famous attractions; the great arch of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. The Harbour Bridge is sometimes called the 'Coathanger', and, indeed, it does look rather like one. The Opera House itself is one of the most well-known buildings in the world; it resembles a spray of water or a cluster of shark's fins coming out of the ocean. Even if you've never heard one before, you should go to the opera or a play there, just to have the experience. Taronga Zoo, built on a hillside – you take a cable car up, passing over alligator cages and lion enclosures – is also a must-see.

如果你想吃住在悉尼港,那么花费是很大的——确实如此,悉尼整体上是个奢华的城市,但你可以经常免费到处漫步,可以去世纪公园,那里满是谈情说爱的情侣。沿着港口,你就会看到悉尼两处最著名的景点:悉尼港大桥的巨大拱门和悉尼歌剧院。悉尼港大桥有时被称为“衣架”,的确,它确实像衣架。歌剧院是全世界最著名的建筑之一;它好像溅起来的水,或者从海里露出的鲨鱼鳍。纵然你从未听过歌剧,你也应该到歌剧院里头参观,或者在此看一场演出,亲自体验一番。塔朗加动物园也是必去景点,它建在山坡上,你得乘坐缆车上去,沿途经过鳄鱼笼和狮子圈。

One of Sydney's peculiarities is the mixture of extremely staid Victorian names – George, Albert, Edward – and names drawn from local Aboriginal languages - Bondi, Maroubra, Coogee. That's just part of the ethnic variety of the city, where the Greek, Russian, and Italian communities have all maintained some degree of their own identity. You'll see Greek Orthodox schools, Russian orthodontists, and Italian churches. Nowadays Asians have been added into the mix, and Kingsford, for instance, has shops that wouldn't be out of place in Guangzhou or Seoul. No matter where you're from, you'll probably be able to find your home cuisine in Sydney.

悉尼的特点之一是,这里混杂着许多典型的维多利亚时代的人名,如——乔治、阿尔伯特、爱德华——还有来自当地土著语言中的名字——邦迪、马鲁巴和库奇。这只是这座城市民族多样性的一部分,希腊人、俄罗斯人和意大利人在这里都多少保持了其自身的特性。你会看到希腊正教的学校、俄罗斯的矫正牙医和意大利教堂。如今亚洲人也加入其中,例如金斯福德国际机场就有在广州或首尔才可以见到的店铺。无论你来自何方,在悉尼都可能找到你的家乡菜。

St Petersburg

圣彼得堡

OK, we have to admit, the Russians aren't the most hospitable people in the world. In fact, they look on visitors rather as if they were unwelcome invaders, best dealt with through hostile shrugs and harsh glares. It's always better to go to Russia with a Russian friend; once they know you, they're some of the most hospitable people on earth. A stereotypical Russian will walk by you dying in the street if you're a stranger, but happily throw himself in front of a bus to save you if you've been invited to his house. St Petersburg is better than most Russian cities, mind you – people there will actually talk to you, and the service is halfway decent, but it's still not exactly friendly. You should put that aside, though, and go to explore one of the most starkly beautiful of Russian cities.

好吧,我们必须得承认,俄罗斯人不是世界上最好客的民族。其实,他们总将游客视为不受欢迎的侵略者,对待游客的最好方法是不怀好意的耸肩和严厉的瞪眼。去俄罗斯最好有俄罗斯的朋友陪着;一旦他们了解你,俄罗斯人就会成为地球上最友好的民族。一个典型的俄罗斯人,如果他不认识你,即使你危在旦夕他也置若罔闻,但如果你曾受邀去他家,他会冒着被巴士撞的危险赶去救你。请注意,圣彼得堡比大多数俄罗斯城市都好,服务也差强人意,但仍算不上友好。不过你应该把这些抛诸脑后,去探寻圣彼得堡——俄罗斯最美丽的城市之一。

Built by Peter the Great, the city was designed to be a modern, European capital, with panoramic squares and wide avenues, a contrast to the then cramped, medieval Moscow. It was the Russian capital for nearly 200 years, until the Bolsheviks moved the government back to Moscow, wary of Petersburg's proximity to the vulnerable Finnish border. They also renamed the city to Leningrad, a choice never popular with the locals, who promptly voted to go back to the old name after the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. In WW2 it endured a terrible siege for over two years, during which time over a million and a half people were killed or starved to death.

圣彼得堡由彼得大帝建造,目的是建设一座现代的欧洲首都,有广阔的广场和宽阔的道路,跟当时中世纪拥挤的莫斯科形成巨大反差。它作为俄罗斯的首都长达近200年,直到布尔什维克警觉到圣彼得堡靠近易受侵扰的俄芬边境,才将政府搬回莫斯科。他们将圣彼得堡更名为列宁格勒,可当地人却从不喜欢这个名字,1991年前苏联解体之后民众立即投票把名字改回去。二战期间,圣彼得堡曾遭受两年多的围困,这期间有150多万人饿死或被杀。

It's still a beautiful city, with no skyscrapers and an amazing low-lying skyline of churches and museums. The Neva river cuts through the city, freezing up enough to skate on in winter, and a pleasant spot for boating in summer. I wouldn't recommend the nightlife, unless you're young, energetic, and have a high tolerance for mean-looking, shaven headed bouncers; crime in the city, though not as bad as in some other parts of Russia, is still very high, and you should be careful about your safety.

圣彼得堡仍然是一座美丽的城市,没有摩天大楼,却有着教堂与博物馆勾勒出来的低矮而美丽的天际线。涅瓦河穿城而过,冬天结的冰厚到足够在上面滑冰,夏天是划船的好去处。我不推荐当地的夜生活,除非你年轻、精力足,并且能忍受长相鄙俗的光头保镖;当地的犯罪率虽然没有俄罗斯其他地方那样糟糕,但依然很高,你得十分注意自己的安全。

The sights, however, are amazing. Your first visit should be to the Hermitage, an astonishing, gigantic museum complex created by Catherine the Great. There's enough here for days worth of visits, with everything from great European paintings and sculpture, like Canova's The Three Graces or Raphael's Madonna, to Egyptian antiquities and Ming dynasty vases. There are normally queues to get in, but it's more than worth it, as are the gardens around the site.

然而,圣彼得堡的景色还是非常棒的。你应该先去冬宫。这是一座宏伟大气的巨型博物馆,由凯瑟琳皇后修建,值得你花几天的时间观赏。从杰出的欧洲画作与雕塑,如卡诺瓦的《三夫人》或拉斐尔的《圣母》,到埃及文物和明代花瓶,琳琅满目,应有尽有。要进去通常得排队,但它仍然值得一看,周围的花园也是。

If you're a military buff, the Peter and Paul Fortress, an eighteenth century citadel which guards the river, is fascinating. The incredibly ornate Orthodox churches, especially the 'Church of the Saviour on Blood', built to mark the site of the assassination of the Russian Tsar Alexander II in 1881, are quite astonishing; you can spend hours just gazing at their complex beauty. There are dozens of gardens and parks to stroll through, numerous historical sites to visit, and, once in a while, the locals will even say hello to you – more than you can expect anywhere else in Russia!

如果你是军事迷,那彼得保罗要塞肯定会吸引你,这是一座18世纪古堡,依涅瓦河而建。装饰华丽的东正教教堂美得惊人,尤其是“滴血大教堂”,这座教堂是因1881年俄罗斯亚历山大二世在此遇刺而建造的;你可以花数小时,仅仅为了欣赏它们繁复的美丽。你还可以在众多的花园和公园里漫步,参观不计其数的历史遗迹、当地人偶尔也会向你打招呼,这可是你在俄罗斯其他地方享受不到的礼遇。

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