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Living the Good Life in Chengdu

2008-04-05staffreporterZHANGXIWEN

CHINA TODAY 2008年4期

staff reporter ZHANG XIWEN

WIDELY traveled Chinese would generally agree that time means different things in different places – opportunity in Beijing, fashion in Shanghai, money in Guangzhou –and life itself in Chengdu. The capital of Southwestern Chinas Sichuan Province sits on the fertile and abundant Chengdu Plain, and its people are glamorous hedonists who have lived a peaceful and abundantlife ever since an agrarian civilization first sprang up here 2,500 years ago.

Although richly endowed, Chengdu has always lagged behind in its economic development, and it remains a metropolis largely free of the bustle one often experiences in larger, more populated cities. The slow pace of life has helped locals develop a peaceful and laid-back mentality, and nothing can really upset or excite them. Life, as they see it, is a game that calls for a relaxed attitude in order to beenjoyed. So there are countless teahouses and places to eat in the city, and the locals can regularly be seen idling away their days savoring tea, playing mahjong, listening to storytellers and watching folk operas.

As the famous film director Zhang Yimou once said: “Chengdu is a city that makes you reluctant to leave once youre here.”

Surprisingly, the devotion of Chengdus people to the good life is out of step with their incomes, which is comparatively low relative to the rest of the country. Chengdu proper is not large – it can be toured by bike in an hour or two – and transportation is convenient. So while Chengdu ranks fourth nationwide in terms of car ownership – surpassing the economically better-off metropolis of Guangzhou – most Chengdu families own cars not to get to work, but to travel and go on holidays.

Every weekend, thousands of locals escape the city by car or taxi to visit the scenic countryside and its many villages, and the regular motorized exodus is an impressive sight to behold. Apart from numerous scenic and historic sites and recreational facilities around Chengdu – hot springs and ski resortsare high on the list – “happy village tours” have become popular tourist excursions in recent years. For a mere RMB15-20 per person (US $2-3), friends and families can spend a full day in a hospitable rural household, taking in the fresh air, enjoying delicious home-made meals and a variety of other rural specialties.

For the people of Chengdu, lifestyle has nothing to do with their economic well-being. Someone who drives a smart car does not necessarily have a bulging wallet, and a man happily eating inexpensive “Spicy and Hot” kebabs by the roadside may not be economically strapped. Rich or poor, Chengdus inhabitants share a common philosophy of life – they will treat themselves to the best it has to offer.

Chengdus people love good food, and it is not uncommon for them to drive 100 miles or more just to savor a particular dish. And that sort of enthusiasm has promoted the growth of a highly developed catering industry, with an influence that can be felt nationwide. “Spicy and Hot” labels, the local specialty, can now be found in restaurants across the country, and Sichuans capital has helped turn Sichuan cuisine into a barometer for the national catering industry.