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MU COMMUNITY- FALL/WINTER 2024/25

2023-07-18

China Textile 2023年2期

Milano Unica has chosen a theme with a strong identity to illustrate the coming Fall/Winter 2024-2025 season. Starting from the concepts of sharing, a sense of belonging, hospitality, diversity and inclusion, we come to define the contents of MU COMMUNITY.

The motivation, therefore, is the individual, with their unique characteristics and feelings, with their distinctness and inquisitiveness.

Milano Unica turns its attention to people to reaffirm the humanistic notion of the centrality of mankind and their surroundings as the basis for every action and project. “I am certain that focusing on the individual entails concentrating on the emotions that produce that driving force able to provide valuable content to any type of product. I believe that it is now absolutely essential for everything that is processed and produced tocontribute to respecting Nature and the physical and spiritual well- being of the individual in order to improve the quality of life of each person and thus of the community where fundamental values and principles are endorsed, starting with environmental awareness”,explained Stefano Fadda, artistic director of Milano Unica.

Whether real or virtual, we have identified three characteristic forms of Community out of many. Although very different from each other, they are connected by a sense of belonging and the urge to share the same experiences: Family Community, Culture Community,Night Community.

FAMILY COMMUNITY

The family is the primary hub of the Community, as a reassuring place to live and rest.This theme is all about expressing yourself with a positive, easy-going, free approach, but always with elegance, warmth and cosiness.

The aesthetic is informal, evoking absolute simplicity and a natural, family-like quality; the lived-in look of the materials adds a certain appeal. Therefore, materials are soft and impactful: wools surround the body creating a tactile and sensuous experience;patterns draw on classics, while jacquards borrow from the world of vintage. An aesthetic of innocence is the inspiration for the women’s collections, with enveloping, textured fabrics and melange yarns.

For the accessories: wide trimmings are made from a mix of wool and chenille yarns; bands/tapes are made of brushed wool;fringes are made of wool and bouclé yarns, furry piping and teddy fleece. The buttons look natural and are made of wood, horn and are covered with fabric or fur. Warm, embracing colours characterise these cosy surroundings, where a variety of autumnal shades range from browns to pastel accents.

CULTURE COMMUNITY

Tailoring and couture. Excellence and essentiality, extravagance and cosiness: these are the aesthetic principles of this theme. The Culture Community, steeped in the past and the future, frames a present that is rich in history and tradition, but equally avantgarde, in search of the best materials and the most refined and innovative combinations.

The mood is hedonistic. Creativity reaches peaks of absolute refinement, so that the fabrics and accessories become exclusive pieces, at times extravagant, yet invariably unique and precious. Buttoned, herringbone and salt and pepper fabrics are structured and voluminous. Denim features original and environmentally friendly treatments.Shirts have a sculptural and formal style, while jacquards such as fil coupé draw from a universe of floating or barely luminescent yarns.

A hedonistic aesthetic characterises the moods of the women’s collections,where essentiality, excess and avant-garde converge amidst lacquered macramé,embroidered poplin and lightweight voiles.

Accessories are exclusive, sometimes extravagant, such as the cufflink buttons and shirt buttons with precious ornamentation. Metallic buckles and chains are also featured. Long fringes are embellished with bright yarns in different chromatic nuances.In terms of colour, alternating shades of white, cream and carmine portray a formal mood, punctuated by the inclusion of lacquering and shiny plated metal accessories.

NIGHT COMMUNITY

We are in the realm of Night Community, the one that haunts and experiences international clubs and relives the electronic vibes of Berlin or Paris in the late 1980s. The mood is after dark with a precise style. The separation between men’s and women’s shapes tends to disappear, so the materials for him and her are the same:double-face cashmere, tooled leathers, or brushed leather fitted to the body. The result is an androgynous, muted sensuality and a surprising, understated, decisive, striking and immediately sexy elegance.

Flowing jerseys deliver genderless sensuality, while techno fabrics offer sheathlike performance with matt coated or waxed treatments. Women’s collections exude evening glamour, with lustres, coatings and shimmers on flowing and slippery materials,embellished with carded and placed needlework and glossy finishes.

The accessories incorporate heat-sealed trimmings; fringes are made from a mix of yarns combined with textured fabrics; striped and herringbone elastic tapes are made of wool yarns.

Numerous corsetry-inspired leather and metal accessories include small chains and decorative pins. Lingerie is made with macramé trimming. In terms of colour, this nightlife aesthetic is conveyed by shading, tone-on-tone chiaroscuro and shades of grey.