探秘澜沧江源头

文、图／韩加君

考察队为澜沧江源头立碑，并宣誓守护好这条“母亲江”。The expedition team erects a monument for the source of the Lancang River and vows to protect this “mother river”.

在亚洲的江河中，有一条河流被称为“东方多瑙河”。它一水二名，源出青海省玉树州杂多县吉富山，在中国境内称为澜沧江，经云南出境后称作湄公河，依次流经缅甸、老挝、泰国、柬埔寨、越南。

澜沧江流经的密林、草原、深山中，生活着大量野生动物。图为黄羊在觅食。A large number of wild animals live in the dense forests,grasslands,and deep mountains that the Lancang River flows through.The picture shows gazelle looking for food.

藏族同胞为澜沧江之源祈福。Tibetan compatriots pray for the source of the Lancang River.

一个冬日，我跟随考察队伍，从青海省玉树州杂多县出发，去200多公里之外的吉富山寻找澜沧江源头。领队是一名长相英俊、办事果断的康巴汉子，名叫阿夏永红。他告诉我们，杂多县是澜沧江—湄公河的发源地，这条河流经历了高山、峡谷、平原、雨林，最后汇入南海……越野车在贴着澜沧江的公路上疾驰，车窗外，黎明前的黑暗把一切神秘都揽在了怀里。

“瞧，天亮了！”藏族姑娘措吉一声呼喊，把我们的目光引向了车窗之外。只见朝阳洒下了金辉，将大地点染得辉煌灿烂；不远处的澜沧江，在蓝天的映衬下，碧蓝清澈；河岸边，冰层在日光的照耀下，晶莹剔透、如梦如幻；路两旁，不时有藏黄羊、野狼、狐狸掠过……一幕幕原生态风景，让人心旷神怡。

雪野茫茫，车队沿着澜沧江继续行进。沿线雪山、江河、喀斯特地貌、瀑布、天然温泉、草原，这些旅行家神往的地方一一映入我们眼帘，又相继被甩在身后。不知过了多久，坐在头车上的学者印英跳下越野车，先是俯身观察，然后下到雪谷，之后又返到山峦高处……20多分钟后，他站在雪地中大声喊道：“前面就是澜沧江地理源头了，我们抵达澜沧江源头了！”

“澜沧江源头，我来了！”站在澜沧江之源，那些美丽圣洁的景致飘忽而来。只见吉富山被群山拥抱，皑皑白雪覆盖的山峦，如斧劈刀琢，气势雄劲。主峰耸入云端，宛如一名伟岸、俊逸的男子在俯视群山。就是在这里，澜沧江从山中奔涌而出，义无反顾地泽润山河大地。

在这条国际河流的源头，我们进行了澜沧江地理源头立碑仪式。一尊一面刻着“澜沧江源头”字样、一面刻着澜沧江源头说明的石碑，经雕刻师亲手雕刻打磨后，被我们恭敬地“捧”进了源头。奠基，埋设基座，树立碑刻，敬献哈达……在印英和阿夏永红的指导下，我们按照藏族最高的礼仪，庄重地将碑刻树立在了澜沧江源头。

这一刻，栖息在澜沧江源头的雄鹰，在我们凝望的目光中飞翔。我们眼中闪烁着泪光，迎着被山风卷起的雪花，注视着壮美风光，倍感震撼和兴奋。在每个人的心中，这既是一次热爱自然、敬重自然的生动实践，也是一次刻骨铭心、终身难忘的人生“旅途”。

澜沧江源头之水破冰而出，向着下游奔流而去。The water from the source of the Lancang River breaks through the ice and rushes downstream.

即使在冬天，澜沧江也奔涌不息。Even in winter,the Lancang River is still rushing.

澜沧江环绕在大山与峡谷之间，滋润着流经的地方。The Lancang River surrounds the mountains and valleys,nourishing the places where it flows.

杂多县是著名的歌舞之乡，藏族同胞的康巴舞热情奔放。Zaduo County is a famous hometown of singing and dancing.The Kham dance of Tibetan compatriots is passionate and unrestrained.

Exploring the Source of the Lancang River

Among the rivers in Asia,there is one called the “Oriental Danube”.Originating from Jifu Mountain,Zaduo County,Yushu Prefecture,Qinghai Province,it has two names—called the Lancang River within the territory of China and the Mekong River after exiting through Yunnan Province.It flows through Myanmar,Laos,Thailand,Cambodia,and Vietnam in turn.

One winter day,I follow an expedition team from Zaduo County,Yushu Prefecture,Qinghai Province,to Jifu Mountain,more than 200 kilometers away,to explore the source of the Lancang River.

The snow field is vast.The convoy continues along the Lancang River.Along the route,there are snow-capped mountains,rivers,karst landforms,waterfalls,natural hot springs,and grasslands.These places that travelers are fascinated by came into our eyes one by one,and are left behind one after another.After some time,we arrive at the source of the Lancang River.

Standing at the source of the Lancang River,those beautiful and holy scenes drift towards us.I see that Jifu Mountain is embraced by mountains.The snow-covered mountains are like axes and knives with majestic momentum.The main peak soars into the clouds,like a stalwart and handsome man overlooking the mountains. It is here that the Lancang River rushes out of the mountains,moistening the mountains,rivers and land without hesitation.

At the source of the mother river of six Asian countries,we hold a monument erection ceremony for the geographic source of the Lancang River.A stele engraved with the words “Source of the Lancang River” on one side and an explanation of the source of the Lancang River on the other side is carved and polished by the sculptor.We respectfully carry it into the source,then lay the foundation,lay the pedestal,set up the inscription,and present the hada...Under the guidance of Yin Ying and Axia Yonghong,we solemnly erect the inscription at the source of the Lancang River in accordance with the highest Tibetan etiquette.