千年泡菜 东坡故里

文：《一带一路报道》全媒体记者 雷怡安

位于眉山的中国泡菜博物馆 Chinese Pickle Museum in Meishan

在四川省眉山市，有中国唯一一座以泡菜为主题的专业性博物馆——中国泡菜博物馆。博物馆展馆展陈面积达2000 平方米，由历史与文化、生产与加工、传承与创新、产品与品牌、品鉴与体验、展望未来等展区构成。

乘车赶赴眉山，离眉山越近，脑海中浮现的问题越多，为什么眉山能拥有“国字号”泡菜博物馆？泡菜产业为眉山带来了哪些机遇？小泡菜怎样走上国际大舞台？来吧，一起走进中国泡菜博物馆，寻找答案吧！

千年东坡泡菜

眉山介于岷山与峨眉山之间，为江山秀气所聚，山川形胜、生态宜居。优越的生态环境孕育了丰富优质的蔬菜品种，加上传承千年的工艺，以及眉山人对美食孜孜不倦的追求，成就了当地泡菜的卓越品质。

早在北宋年间，眉山美食代言人苏东坡，就曾留下“三白饭”的佳话：一碗白饭、一碟白盐、一碗白萝卜。小小一碟萝卜泡菜，伴随了东坡清苦的求学时光，因此，眉山泡菜又被称之为“东坡泡菜”。

如今，泡菜已经成了眉山的名片，享有“中国泡菜看四川，四川泡菜看眉山”的美誉。眉山的老百姓家家户户都有祖传的泡菜坛子，“万物皆可泡”在眉山不再是一句玩笑话。

眉山人对泡菜的喜爱已经在历史长河中淬炼为“泡菜文化”。泡菜博物馆的对外开放，正是“泡菜文化”向外展示的一种最直观的方式。

博物馆里有一座长27 米、高5 米的浮雕背景墙，绘着四川的好山好水好生活：岷山上的雪宝顶、奔涌千年的都江堰、沃野千里的成都平原，沿袭千年的泡菜腌制、习俗婚嫁、坝坝宴等人文风俗，构成了别具特色的“三千年泡菜，中国人味道”风情画卷。

博物馆内的八大展柜中，有两个展示了蔬菜种植与泡菜的渊源。展柜中陈列着出土于成都金沙遗址的农具——耜实物，1954 年在西安半坡遗址出土的“芥菜或白菜类种子”，以及1973 年在浙江余姚河姆渡新石器文化遗址出土的葫芦皮、葫芦籽等远古蔬菜种子。

另外六个展柜陈列着从商周时期至康熙年间的泡菜制作工具等实物，结合大量文字、文献记录，生动再现了中国泡菜从种植到采摘，再到腌制的工艺，无不体现出国人的勤劳与创新精神。

当泡菜成为产业

眉山泡菜创造了6 个“全国第一”：全国第一个泡菜产业园区、全国第一个国家级泡菜质量监督检验中心、全国第一个泡菜产业技术研究院、全国第一个中国泡菜博物馆、全国第一个泡菜行业标准、全国第一个泡菜行业4A 级景区——“中国泡菜城”。

春日阳光下，“中国泡菜城”项目建设与招商正在热火朝天地进行中，海霸王食品有限公司就是其中一家。

“公司于2019 年11 月落户眉山，2020 年3 月动工建设，同年11 月便取得第一条生产线的生产许可。2021 年4 月，8 条生产线逐步投入生产。”海霸王食品有限公司厂长芮如桐介绍。作为速冻食品生产基地，该公司总投资10 亿元，主要建设速冻食品、熟制品、调理食品等生产线，全自动化冷冻库，观光工厂及火锅泡菜体验配套区等。

“坚持招大引强，推动对外开放打开新局面。”眉山“中国泡菜城”管委会相关负责人介绍，园区始终坚持把招商引资作为加快发展的重中之重和推进跨越式发展的第一抓手，利用各类平台主动加强项目对接，力求招商“质”“量”双提升。

2021 年，园区全年新签约项目10 个，签约资金370.13亿元，完成东坡区区定目标任务的120%。其中，投资10 亿元以上重大项目3 个，招商引资总到位资金63.0645 亿元。眉山“中国泡菜城”正紧紧抓住成渝地区双城经济圈建设、成都都市圈高质量发展新兴城市等重大历史机遇，全力推进以商招商、产业招商、以企招商、网络招商。一碟小泡菜，已做成大产业。

走上国际舞台

2020 年11 月24 日，由眉山市政府主导制订、眉山市市场监管局牵头负责的国际标准ISO 24220《泡菜（盐渍发酵蔬菜）规范和试验方法》在历经1 年多的反复论证后，顺利通过国际标准化组织最终国际标准草案阶段（批准阶段）为期2 个月的投票，泡菜行业国际标准正式诞生！这是中国泡菜产业国际化的直接体现，也是中国在ISO 框架下制定的第6 个食品标准。 意味着中国泡菜产业的技术标准被世界认可，成了国际泡菜市场的行业标杆。

眉山泡菜正一步步走上国际舞台。“将青菜、辣椒、红皮萝卜、胡萝卜等蔬菜洗净，切成适合的大小，塞入浑圆的陶罐里，再放上花椒、‘老母水’增香。”1 月，一群国际友人走进中国泡菜博物馆，在亲身体验了一把四川泡菜制作流程后，他们对泡菜的认知和喜爱更加深厚。英国人Max 对泡菜的制作非常感兴趣，他说：“做泡菜很有意思，因为泡菜水过了一百多年还能使用，其中一定有奥妙。”

在博物馆里还展示着不同国家制作泡菜的材料和过程。小小的泡菜坛就像内有乾坤的太虚幻境，将泡菜文化尽展眼前。来自俄罗斯的佳佳感叹说，“每个朝代都有不同的做法，意味着中国泡菜历史悠久。今天我们了解到中国泡菜的五味——苦甜咸辣酸，可见眉山泡菜的味道多么丰富”。

小泡菜“走出去”的步伐越迈越大。在日本、新加坡、美国、英国等地的超市里都能见到眉山泡菜，在国外的川菜馆里，用得最多的一种辅料也是眉山泡菜。

“我们东坡泡菜不仅‘C 位’亮相纽约时代广场，更行销全球100 多个国家和地区，位列世界三大泡菜之一，产值超百亿元。”一位眉山的朋友骄傲地告诉记者，东坡泡菜已成为眉山向世界递出的一张国际化名片。

传承与创新、产业化与国际化，“千年泡菜，东坡故里”走出了一条符合自身特色的发展之路，时光知味，愈久弥香。

泡菜生产车间P i c k l e p r o d u c t i o n workshop

In Meishan City, Sichuan, there is the China Paocai Museum,the only professional museum in China with the theme of paocai (pickled vegetables). The museum has an exhibition area of 2,000 square meters. It consists of exhibition areas such as history and culture, production and processing, inheritance and innovation, products and brands, evaluation and experience, and looking forward to the future.

When I went to Meishan by car, the closer I got to Meishan,the more questions came to my mind. Why does Meishan have a“national brand” China Paocai Museum, and what opportunities does the pickled vegetables industry bring to Meishan? How do pickled vegetables step onto the international stage? Come on,let’s walk into the China Paocai Museum and find out.

Meishan is located between Mount Min and Mount Emei and is a place where the beauty of the mountains and rivers are gathered. It is a city with pleasant living environment. The excellent ecological environment has produced a rich variety of high-quality vegetables, and with the craftsmanship inherited for thousands of years and the tireless pursuit of food by the Meishan people, the local pickled vegetables have excellent quality.

As early as in the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo,the spokesman of Meishan cuisine and a famous poet, once left the story of “three whites”: a bowl of white rice, a plate of white salt and a bowl of white radish. A small dish of pickled radish accompanied Dongpo’s hard-fought youth when he was studying. Therefore, Meishan pickled vegetables are also called“Dongpo pickled vegetables”.

Nowadays, pickled vegetables have become the business card of Meishan. Meishan enjoys the reputation of “Sichuan is the most important place for pickled vegetables in China, and Meishan is the most important place for pickled vegetables in Sichuan”. Every household in Meishan has a pickle pot handed down in the family from generation to generation. “Everything can be pickled”is not a joke in Meishan.

Meishan people’s love for pickled vegetables has been refined into a “pickled vegetables culture” throughout history.The opening of the China Paocai Museum is the most direct way for the “Pickled Vegetables Culture” to be displayed to the outside world.

There is a relief wall 27 meters long and five meters high in the museum,which depicts the good mountains, rives and life in Sichuan: Xuebaoding (literally:“Snowy Treasure Peak”) on the Mount Min, Dujiangyan, which has been surging for thousands of years, and Chengdu Plain with thousands of miles of fertile fields. There are also pickling methods,marriage customs, babayan (a banquet with local characteristics), and other cultural customs. Together, they form a unique picture of “three thousand years of pickled vegetables with Chinese flavor”.

Two of the eight showcases in the museum show the origins of vegetable farming and pickled vegetables. In the two showcases are the farm tools unearthed at the Jinsha site in Chengdu,the “mustard or cabbage seeds” unearthed at the Banpo site in Xi’an in 1954, and the gourd skin and gourd seeds unearthed at the Hemudu Neolithic site in Yuyao,Zhejiang in 1973 and other ancient vegetable seeds.

The other six showcases display objects such as tools used for making pickled vegetables from the Shang and Zhou Dynasties to the Kangxi period.Combined with a large number of texts and literature records, they vividly reproduce the craftsmanship of Chinese pickled vegetables from planting, picking,and then pickling, all of which reflect the diligence of the Chinese people and their innovative spirit.

Meishan pickled vegetables have created six “national firsts”: China’s first pickled vegetables industrial park, China’s first national quality supervision and inspection center for pickled vegetables,China’s first pickled vegetables industry technology research institute, the first China Paocai Museum, China’s first industry standard for pickled vegetables,China’s first 4A-level scenic spot about pickled vegetables—”China Paocai City”.

On November 24, 2020,the international standard ISO 24220 “Pickled Vegetables (Salted Fermented Vegetables)Specification and Test Methods” led by Meishan and Meishan Market Supervision Bureau successfully passed the Final Draft International Standard(approval phase) of the International Organization for Standardization after more than one year of repeated arguments and a two-month voting period. The international standard for the pickled vegetables industry was officially launched! This is a direct manifestation of the internationalization of China’s pickled vegetables industry and the 6th food standard developed by China under the ISO framework. This means that the technical standards of China’s pickled vegetables industry are recognized by the world and become the industry benchmark in the international pickled vegetables market.

国际友人参观中国泡菜博物馆Foreigners visit Chinese Pickle Museum

Meishan pickled vegetables are taking the international stage step by step. In January 2022, a group of visitors from other countries entered the China Paocai Museum. “Wash green vegetables,peppers, red radishes, carrots and other vegetables, cut them into suitable sizes,put them into a round clay pot, and add Chinese peppercorns and pickle solution to enhance the flavor.” After experiencing the production process of Sichuan pickled vegetables, they have a deeper understanding of and love for pickled vegetables. Max from the UK was very interested in making pickled vegetables and said, “It’s interesting to make pickled vegetables because the pickle solution still works even though it’s over 100 years old, so there must be something in it.”

The materials and processes of making pickled vegetables in different countries are also displayed in the museum. The small pickle pot is like an illusory realm with heaven and earth inside, showing the pickled vegetables culture in front of you.Jia Jia from Russia remarked, “The fact that each dynasty has a different way of making pickled vegetables means that Chinese pickled vegetables have a long history. Today we learned about the five flavors of Chinese pickles—bitter, sweet, salty, spicy and sour. This shows how rich the taste of Meishan pickled vegetables is.”

Pickled vegetables are speeding up the pace of “going global”. Meishan pickled vegetables can be seen in supermarkets in Japan, Singapore, the United States, the United Kingdom and other places. In foreign Sichuan restaurants, the most used auxiliary ingredient is Meishan pickled

“Our Dongpo pickled vegetables not only appeared in Times Square in New York but are also sold to more than 100 countries and regions around the world, ranking among the world’s top three pickles, with an output value of over 10 billion yuan.” A friend from Meishan proudly told the correspondent that Dongpo pickled vegetables have become an international business card that Meishan presents to the world.