古法酒香

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石相胜（右）从四川请来的汪师傅跟古法酿酒打了一辈子交道，掌握了酿酒的独门绝技。Mr. Wang from Sichuan employed by Shi Xiangsheng (right) has been engaged in traditional liquor production for a lifetime, and mastered the tricks of liquor production.

驱车来到距济南市区20公里外的党家庄镇小白村村东头，远远便可看到十几个大酒缸摆在路边，再往里走就能闻到一股浓浓的酒糟味，石相胜、商锡俊夫妻俩经营的裕龙生态酒厂就坐落在这个周围全是树木和野草的坡地上。

20多年来，夫妻俩从最初给别人送酒瓶，发展到自己开酒厂，起起伏伏、历经风雨，依旧初心不改，始终坚持用传统工艺酿酒，求质不求量。

石相胜和妻子起初以经营小商店为营生，后来设立回收点，专门以给外地酒厂送酒瓶为业。上世纪90年代，一家酒厂委托夫妻俩帮助厂里灌装地瓜干白酒，此后，喜欢喝酒的石相胜逐渐萌生了自己开酒厂酿好酒的想法。

说干就干，1998年，石相胜带着妻子和他们辛苦挣来的第一桶金，回到党家庄镇自家的村子里，开办了市中区第一家酒厂。酿酒绝非易事，将近一年的时间，他们从省内酒厂请来的几个酿酒师都没能酿出让老石满意的酒。石相胜决定外出求贤，来到酿酒之乡四川邛崃，辗转找到了深谙传统酿酒工艺的汪师傅。两人都是爽快人，一拍即合。

汪师傅来到酒厂后，酿酒的工艺完全按照邛崃当地“天锅酒”的古法，一改山东的单粮、三粮酿造，采用五粮蒸酿。汪师傅依据这边的气候特点、土壤结构和泉水水质，对酿酒节点和发酵时间做了相应的调整。经过几个寒暑，终于酿出了口感醇厚的五粮酒。

石相胜说，当时他们的酒卖得很好，济南小吃城几乎所有的餐馆都进他的酒，天津和辽宁的客户也来订酒。小富即安，夫妻俩的酒厂没有再继续扩张。老石夫妇心存善心，不忘资助他人。汶川地震时，老石毫不犹豫地给灾民捐了10万元，他们还资助了一名贫困的山村小学生。

蒸出的粮食，经过摊晾、搅拌等多道工序后方可入窖池。Steamed grains cannot be put into a liquor pit until undergoing such procedures as spreading out for cooling and stirring.

今年的第一锅酒即将在香气蒸腾中出锅。This year’s first pot of liquor is about to be completed amid a steaming aroma.

有好的酒曲，才能酿出好酒。Only with quality distiller’s yeast can quality liquor be produced.

酒厂新址周围的良好生态，也是酿出好酒的条件之一。The new site of the distillery has an ecologically sound environment, which is one of the conditions of producing quality liquor.

天有不测风云，2012年以后，全国白酒市场普遍不景气，夫妻俩40多个窖池生产出的白酒库存太多，卖不出去。此外，老石的酒厂以煤炭做燃料，不利于环保，只好暂停蒸酒，汪师傅也返回四川老家。屋漏偏逢连阴雨，老实憨厚的石相胜还被一名不良商人骗去了价值上百万元的酒，夫妻俩的酿酒事业陷入低谷。

经过几年的调整，夫妻俩忐忑不安的生活渐渐恢复正常，加上经常有老客户找老石买酒，55岁的石相胜决心再次创业。他关停了村子里的酒厂，重新请回了汪师傅，在村东头生态环境更好的坡地上新建了28个窖池，蒸酒的燃料采用了环保的液化气。

看着新出锅的五粮热气蒸腾，老石的心反而平静了，这第一锅蒸好的粮食入池发酵两个月后才能蒸酒。蒸出的酒又须在陶缸里储存三到五年后才够味。老石直言，年过五旬，名利对他来说似乎不那么重要了，他更在乎的是做一个好人，酿一缸好酒。

20年来，老石夫妻俩将生产的每一种酒的酒盒都保留着，作为对创业的记忆。Over the past 20 years, Shi and his wife have retained all sorts of liquor boxes in memory of their startup.

Driving to the east of Xiaobai Village, Dangjiazhuang Town, 20 kilometers away from downtown Jinan, our reporter saw from a distance dozens of big liquor jars placed by the roadside, and caught a whiff of distillers’ grain after moving inside. The distillery run by the couple Shi Xiangsheng and Shang Xijun is located on the slope surrounded by trees and weeds.

In the 1990s, a distillery entrusted the couple to assist in filling sweet potato liquor. Afterwards, Shi Xiangsheng, with a fondness for drinking, gradually came up with the idea of running a distillery and producing quality liquor. In 1998, Shi Xiangsheng took his wife and their hard-earned first pot of gold to their village in Dangjiazhuang Town, established the first distillery in Shizhong District, and changed Shandong’s single-grain and threegrain liquor production mode into five-grain liquor production by steaming. Several years later, they finally produced full-bodied fivegrain liquor. Shi Xiangsheng said that their liquor sold well in that period; almost all restaurants of the Jinan Snack City purchased their liquor; even customers from Tianjin and Liaoning ordered liquor from him.

After 2012, China’s liquor market was in a slump, and so was the couple’s liquor production business. After several years of adjustment, the couple’s uneasy life was gradu-ally back to normal; besides, Shi’s regular customers often bought liquor from them. Thus, 55-year-old Shi Xiangsheng was determined to restart a business, and newly built 28 liquor pits on a more ecologically friendly slope in the east of the village.

Staring at the steaming five grains, Shi felt calm. Liquor can be steamed only after two months of fermentation of the first pot of steamed grains in a pit. To obtain mellow liquor, the steamed liquor has to be stored in an earthen jar for three to five years. Shi said bluntly that fame and fortune seemed less important in his fifties, and he focused more on being a good person, and producing quality liquor.