秋入径山不知归

俞天立

杭州两位老市长白居易、苏东坡咏赞杭州余杭的诗赋，总能勾起我“以山水为庐，行读书之乐”的神思。白市长赋曰：“东南山水，余杭郡为最。”苏市长诗云：“余杭自是山水窟”“我昔尝为径山客，至今诗笔余山色。”

时属季秋。我的手里捧着一杯茶。

茶汤温热而清新，就像此刻的心情。我亲手泡了这杯茶，茶叶和热水却不是自己的，是属于余杭径山一个名叫小古城村的村子的。靠近，驻足，定神，执行一场充满仪式感的冲泡，将世情百态溶在汤汁中品味，然后在缓慢的时光中沉醉。呷一口茶，思绪就柔软了，顺滑了，忘却了俗事的纷扰。

这间木屋子里除了我和家人，没有主人，也没有伙计。可自由出入，可随意歇脚，可临窗观山，可从容地泡一壶径山茶，等待下一位有缘人品茗对谈。仿佛曲水流觞，酒杯换了茶杯，在时光之溪中与友对饮，茗香盈喉，通体舒泰。

我惊喜地发现，此地还可以自主选择有声学习——打开微信扫一扫墙上的音频栏目二维码，对应“儿童乐园”“青年榜样”“廉政故事”“经典名著”“绿水青山”“乡村振兴”等栏目名，便有一段娓娓动听的故事绕梁，似乎便可“三月而不知肉味”。如果我想让耳朵歇一歇，还可以循着一排排书架，取阅《老人与海》《瓦尔登湖》《骆驼祥子》《苏辛词》等书籍，在文海词林中徜徉。所以，我流连，沉醉，差点忘了这是一座图书馆，一座有声图书馆，还是一座党建图书馆——在这里，可以找到学习党史的各种书籍和资料，沿着红色之旅重温苦难与辉煌。

身处这样一个书香飘溢的智慧村庄，我真的不是在做梦？

恋恋不舍地放下茶杯，跨出门外。门口摆着块题写着每日金句的黑板，为访客奉上一道精神甜点。上面写的是：“文明是丰富多彩的，民主也是丰富多彩的。”书写时间为当日。显然文字是日日更新的，访客每日都能看到不同的内容。

不远处，岳母大呼小叫找到了“好东西”——那是一辆自助的贩货小车，就停在敞开的院子门口。走近看去，小车陈列着一袋一袋的烤薯片，其中一袋贴着“试吃”的标签。周围并没有摊主，听凭来客随意品尝。试吃后如果喜欢的话，便可扫描悬挂的二维码收款牌，十元一袋。岳母尝了几片，啧啧称赞其脆嫩酥香，立马拿出手机扫码付了款。女儿在旁早已嘴馋，忍不住冲上去想将整袋抢过来，岳母哈哈笑着往她小嘴里塞了一片，她才松开了小手。我也乘机抓了几片，第一口下去，便觉薄脆如蝉翼，红薯的甜香将味蕾按摩得舒舒坦坦。我仔细观察周围，发现这样的自助式贩货小车几乎每家每户都有，星罗棋布，形成了独特的景观。

“喜欢呀？喜欢就多买一点！”院子里款步走出一个憨态可掬的大婶，笑意盈盈地对我们说。女儿绕着她转，她边逗女儿玩边介绍起她家的贩货小车来：“这烤薯片基本上家家户户都会做，也是我们小古城村的风味特产呢！”

“确实好吃！有什么秘诀吗？”

“我们这边的烤薯片芝麻放得多。芝麻少，不好吃。切片也很重要，切得要薄才脆。”她指指其中一袋，“这批都是前天刚做好的，非常脆口”。

“你们做生意都靠游客自觉吧？有没有安裝监控呢？”我好奇地问。

“有些是有的，我家就没有。我们放心的，没碰上过偷拿不给钱的！”她笑了起来，笑容真诚而煦暖。

我来到一家名号为“古城e铺”的土特产小店，大字牌匾竟然是只农家的笸箩。古色古香的店门前，腊肉香扑鼻而来。原来，清一色晒香肠的架子搭在院子里，满目都是。五六把长短各异的老式秤杆挂在白粉墙上，秤杆木质粗粝而古朴。台阶前忙活的老板娘，约莫六十岁，系绛红色围裙，戴藏青色护袖。还未趋近，农家特有的亲和力已让人心生欢喜。

“老板娘，香肠都是自己做的吧？”岳母问她。

“是的。昨天我刚做的，蛮新鲜的。我这手现在还酸着呢！你还可以看看土猪肉，五十块一斤，别的地方买不到的。”她咧嘴笑着，笑中似带香气。

“都是用土猪肉做的呀？”

“是的。不是土猪肉的话，肉很薄，没啥嚼劲。我家的是正宗的自制土猪肉香肠，有村民在养猪的。在我们这里，都是一头猪两家分，我家和另一家分一头。”

此时，淘气的女儿已在四处抓商品玩。岳母见哄不住她，便假装生气的样子喝了一声。

“小姑娘好可爱呀！我家里正在煮番薯，如果你女儿喜欢吃，我去给她拿两个来。你等下啊……”店主乐呵呵地对我说，转身入了后院。不一会儿，便手捧着两只热气腾腾的番薯回来了。嘴馋的女儿不由分说，抓起一个便啃吃起来。

“我有两个女儿，大女儿嫁到了丽水，小女儿嫁到了温州。不过小女儿喜欢这里，平时也跟我们老两口一起住。”

“说明这里宜居呀。”我笑言。

“浙江的农村么，都这样。带你们去院子里看看吧。”她热情地领着我们参观她家的小院。院子宽敞明亮，半圆形的格局，被绿色植物清晰勾勒出温馨的线条，柿树上的柿子红似灯笼，在秋风中摇头晃脑。前院有车库，二楼有露台，一切棱角分明，素净雅致。落叶纷飞，流光明媚。秋之明净，生动到可以浓缩在一庭一院，只需三两黄叶，四五雀鸣。女主人仿如庭院里的秋海棠。

“房子什么时候造的呀？看上去很新。”

“2006年前后建造的，看不出来吧？”她又指了指前院的围墙，“以前这一块都是高墙大院，显得封闭，我们家也是。前些年，村里出资把围墙整体改造得低矮通透了，容易让人亲近。现在游客从微信朋友圈看到院子这么美，来玩的就更多了，我们的生意也好了很多！”

“以前是‘内卷，现在是‘开放，哈哈！”我应和道，“您的家人也在家？”

“小女儿这会儿遛娃去了。他们在对面山脚下玩彩虹滑梯，快活着呢！”正说话间，远处传来了人声和电瓶车声。那便是她的小女儿了，带着个小男孩。男孩“腾”地跳下车来，见我女儿对着他的滑轮车好奇张望，便“绅士”地上前教她玩耍起来。女儿也剥了一块番薯，主动向他“示好”。孩子们追逐嬉戏，童真如此的简单与美好。

如果說岁月是以静好为美，那么人性则是以真诚为美。真诚的前提是人与人之间的信任。在这里，我感受到了如山厚重的信义和似水绵柔的善意。

一湾池水，一棵大樟，一张石桌，岁月春秋结下珍贵的乡情乡谊，信任在田园之上、邻里之间传递。小古城村多年来以信立村，开创了樟树下议事的先例、被标为“六议四步”的民主协商制度，甚至还建起了民主协商博物馆。不闭户的有声图书馆，不监控的贩货小车，诚信待客的“古城e铺”……这些鲜活的民间样本，在我的眼眸里熠熠生辉，在我的心头活色生香。

信任，是可以缩短人心距离的。我沉醉在径山的秋色里，陶然忘归。

Intoxicating Autumn of the Jingshan Mountain

By Yu Tianli

It was autumn， and I was holding a cup of tea in my hands. The tea soup was warm and fresh， just like my state of mind at the moment. I made this cup of tea with my own hands， but I didn't produce the tea leaves or the hot water： they belonged to a village in the Jingshan Mountain， Hangzhous Yuhang district — the Xiaogucheng （literally “Small Ancient City”） village.

In this wooden house， there was no owner or staff， except me and my family. Everyone was free to come and go， and have a good rest in between.

I was surprised to find that audio-learning materials were also available here. If I wanted to rest my ears， I could stroll among rows of bookshelves and pick out some books to read， such as The Old Man and the Sea， Walden Lake and Camel Xiangzi， as if wandering in the sea of literature.

Was I really in such a smart village surrounded by the lovely scent of books， or was I only dreaming？

Not far away， I heard my mother-in-law crying out loud that she had found “something good” — it was a self-service hawker cart， parked in front of the open courtyard. Upon closer look， the cart displayed bags of baked potato chips， one of which was labeled “tasting”. There was no vendor around， but the visitors can taste the samples at will. If they liked what they ate， then they could scan the hanging QR code to check out for 10 yuan or about 1.5 US dollars per bag.

I looked around carefully and found that such self-service hawker carts were almost in front of every household， forming a unique landscape.

“You like it？ If you like it， buy some more！”An aunt stepped out from the courtyard， saying to us full of smiles. As my daughter playfully circled her， she began to tease her while introducing her hawker cart to us： “This baked potato chip is basically made by every family， and it is also a specialty of our small ancient village.”

“Its really delicious！ Whats the secret？”

“We put more sesame. Without enough sesame， the chips will be not as good. Its also important to slice the chips thinly to make them crisp，” She pointed to one of the bags. “This batch was just made the day before yesterday， very crispy.”

“You do business on the good behavior of customers， right？ Is there any surveillance cameras installed？” I asked curiously.

“Some do， my family doesnt. We dont worry about it， and we havent been shoplifted！” She laughed， her smile sincere and warm.

I came to a small store of local specialties named “e-store in the ancient city”， surprised to find the shop sign is a farmhouse shallow basket. In front of the ancient store， the aroma of preserved meat came to my nose. The owner who was busy in front of the steps was a sixty-year-old lady， wearing a crimson apron and navy-blue sleeves.

She enthusiastically led us on a tour of her familys small yard. The courtyard was bright and spacious with a semi-circular pattern， clearly outlined by greenery. The persimmons on the persimmon tree resembled red lanterns， shaking their heads in the autumn breeze. There was a garage in the front yard and a terrace on the second floor， and everything was sharp， clean and elegant.

“When was the house built？ It looks very new.”

“It was built around 2006. you cant tell， right？”She pointed to the wall in the front yard， “In the past， this area was a high-wall compound， which seemed closed， and so was our house. Some years ago， the village funded the overall transformation of the fence， which is now low and friendly. Now people have learned from the WeChat ‘Moments of others that the yard is so beautiful that more visitors are coming in， and our business is much better！”

If time is beautiful in its quietness， then humanity is beautiful in its sincerity. The premise of sincerity is trust between people. Here， I feel the faithfulness as thick as a mountain and the kindness as soft as water.

Through trust， it is possible to shorten the distance between peoples hearts. I was so intoxicated by the autumn view of the Jingshan Mountain that I forgot to return.