巴黎完美一日

2022-03-20戴维莱博维茨戴安娜译介张菊

英语世界 2022年12期

文/戴维·莱博维茨戴安娜·刘译介/张菊

David moved to Paris in 2004, and after years of cooking, baking, and tasting both the sweet and unsavory parts of life in France (the sweet being the pastries, the unsavory the experiences with bank tellers), he’s cultivated la vie du quartier, an intimate knowledge of one’s arrondissement1arrondissement〈法〉区。相当于英语中的district。that few attain.His Paris is multicultural, tightknit, and deliciously creative—a more down-to-earth side of the city that often goes unnoticed.

2004 年，戴维移居法国巴黎。多年在法国烹调烘焙，体验法国生活的甘苦（甘甜的是糕点，苦涩的是与银行出纳员打交道的经历）之后，他已熟谙这里的市井生活，很少有人像他那样深入了解自己生活的区域。他的巴黎是多元文化的，紧凑且富有创意——这是这座城市更接地气的一面，也是常常被忽视的一面。

2戴维的新书《喝在法国》对法国极具特色的酒水进行了深度解读，读来轻松愉悦。该书发行前夕，戴维给“时髦巴黎”网站带来了他的巴黎完美一日行，这一天有贝尔维尔的漫步、自然发酵的糕点、猪肉饺子，还有这个城市最好的咖啡和烈酒。

2On the eve of the launch ofDrinking French, his new book that takes a delectable dive into the iconic drinks of France, David brought HiP Paris2一个旨在帮助游客及巴黎本地人深度开发了解巴黎的网站。on a tour of his perfect day in Paris, which includes a walk around Belleville, naturally fermented pastries, pork dumplings, and the best coffee and spirits the city has to offer.

Café au lait and a walk through Belleville

3In the morning, I usually get up around 7 am, stay in my pajamas, and have coffee at home.In America, people like to drink a pot of coffee, but to me coffee is like a punctuation mark—one shot and I’m good.

奶咖和贝尔维尔漫步

3早晨我一般7 点左右起床，穿着睡衣在家先喝点儿咖啡。在美国，人们早起后喜欢喝一壶咖啡，但对我来说，咖啡就像一个标点符号——一杯就好。

4Afterward, I’d walk over to Belleville; it’s around 20 minutes on foot from where I live in the 11th arrondissement3第11 区，位于塞纳河右岸。巴黎共20 个区，以塞纳河中段为中心螺旋形顺时针外展。邮政编码以75开头，尾数是每个区的数字。比如，第11 区的邮政编码是75011。.It’s a multicultural neighborhood that feels authentic.If you want to see the real Paris, this is where you go.One thing people, especially foreigners, often forget about Paris is that it’s a melting pot.Belleville is also an inexpensive neighborhood, which means that young people can afford to open up businesses there.

4随后，我会走到贝尔维尔，从我住的11 区步行过去约20分钟。这是一个原汁原味的多元文化社区；如果想看看真正的巴黎，就该来这里。人们，尤其是外国人，经常忘记一点：巴黎是个大熔炉。贝尔维尔还是一个生活成本不高的社区，这意味着很适合年轻人在此创业。

5首先，我会在贝尔维尔拉方丹咖啡馆停留片刻，喝一杯榛子咖啡。这是一家法式咖啡店，目标客户是年轻一代，环境很好，咖啡很棒，甜点是自制的，三明治尤其不错。其经典的火腿黄油三明治美名远扬，火腿用的是巴黎王子火腿——这是仅存的采用炖煮工艺制作的火腿，真正的巴黎出品。

5First, I’d stop at La Fontaine de Belleville and have acafé noisette4榛子咖啡，准确说是榛果风味的咖啡，有浓浓的榛果味和奶香味。正规榛子咖啡的榛果味来自于榛果提取物制作的榛果糖浆，并非在咖啡中直接加入实物榛果。.It’s a French coffee shop for the new generation with a great vibe5vibe 气氛，环境。, quality coffee,homemade desserts, and really good sandwiches.They’re famous for their classicjambon-beurresandwich6火腿黄油三明治，一种经典的法式三明治。一般做法是，将外脆里嫩的长棍面包纵向切半后在内侧抹上黄油，再夹入熟火腿（也称巴黎火腿），有时还会放酸黄瓜片。, made with Prince de Paris ham—it’s the last boiled ham actually made in Paris.

Produce, pork dumplings, and pastries

6Next, I’d go shopping for some ingredients.Terroirs d’Avenir sells beautiful French produce as well as a variety of cheeses and butters.There are also a lot of stores over on Boulevard de Belleville.I like to stop by Djudjura Blida, a North African butcher, for meat—a lamb shoulder7羊肩肉，羊腿上方、脊椎两侧的肉，一般指羊的第一根到第四根肋骨上的肉。因肌肉运动多，所以这个部位的脂肪分布更均匀，肉质滑嫩，鲜美多汁，适合做炖羊肉、烤羊肉、红焖羊肉等。to braise or a roast chicken for dinner.It’s not particularly scenic, but it’s a real slice of this part of Paris.There are also a lot of Middle Easternépiceries(small grocery stores) in Belleville, like Produits du Monde.As a baker, I need to buy ingredients in big quantities, and this spot is perfect for that.I also just enjoy wandering around the neighborhood—it’s how I discover things.

农产品、猪肉饺子和糕点

6接下来，我会去购买一些食材。“未来之地”出售的法国农产品很不错，还有各种奶酪和黄油。贝尔维尔大道上也有很多店。我喜欢顺路逛一下“朱尔朱拉-卜利达”，这是一家北非肉店，晚餐想炖羊肩肉或想烤鸡都可以在这里买肉。这地方谈不上多好看，但真是地道巴黎的一部分。贝尔维尔还有很多中东小杂货店，像“世界产品”。我是个烘焙师，需要大批量购买食材，这个地方正适合我。我还就喜欢在那一带闲逛，这是我发现新事物的方式。

7午餐，我会去“东北饺子馆”，猪肉饺子非这家店莫属！我也喜欢“三倍辣椒”家的麻辣饺子，不过它在另一个区。作为一个前加利福尼亚人，我非常喜欢亚洲食物并且经常吃……这对我来说是很大的满足。

7For lunch, I’d head to Raviolis Chinois Nord-Est—their pork dumplings are the way to go! I also love the spicy dumplings over at Trois Fois Plus de Piment8位于三区的一家川菜馆，在巴黎的中餐馆中很有名。, although that’s in a different arrondissement.As a former Californian,I adore Asian food and eat it a lot… it’s very fulfilling for me.

8Afterwards, I’d walk over to Le Petit Grain and pick up a pastry and some bread.The pastries there are what I call“bakers’ pastries” rather than fancy French pastries.Everything is naturally fermented and they don’t use yeast in their croissants.They don’t use plastic either.It’s a zero-waste bakery!

8随后，我会到“小谷物”买些点心和面包。那儿的糕点就是我所说的“烘焙师糕点”，不是花里胡哨的法式点心。每样东西都是自然发酵的，牛角面包也不用酵母发酵。他们也不用塑料制品。这家面包店零浪费！

An apéro9apéro = apéritif〈法〉开胃酒。该词源自拉丁词aperire（打开），意为在正餐前开启好胃口（ouvrir l’appétit）。法国人喝开胃酒通常在下班后、晚餐前。大多数法国家庭在晚上8 点后才吃晚餐，此前人们会喝点儿开胃酒、吃点儿开胃小菜垫垫肚子。开胃酒不一定非得是酒，也可以是餐前饮用的无酒精软饮料，并可配以水果、奶酪盘、熟食盘、小零食等。法国人常喝的开胃酒有香槟、气泡酒、基尔酒、荨麻酒、茴香酒、利尔酒、皮诺酒、调配鸡尾酒等。白葡萄酒和红酒一般是正餐酒（vin à table），正餐时饮用。 hour sans prétention

9Then I’d stop at La Cave de Belleville for a bottle of wine.It’s a natural wine bar without the dogma.Natural wine has become a big deal in Paris,but there can be a certain snobbism associated with it, even though natural wine is, in fact, a very earthy ingredient!I’m not a wine expert, so I’d just ask them for a recommendation.It’s also a great place for dinner—you can order a charcuterie platter and a bottle of wine from the shelves.

低调的开胃酒时光

9之后，我会在“贝尔维尔酒窖”买瓶葡萄酒，这是一家随性的天然葡萄酒酒吧。天然葡萄酒已成为巴黎的一大风尚，但可能也含有某些附庸风雅的成分，因为天然葡萄酒的成分其实就是纯天然的！我不是葡萄酒专家，因此我会请他们推荐一下。这也是吃晚饭的好地方，你可以从货架上点一份熟食拼盘和一瓶葡萄酒。

10Forapérohour, I’d head over to Combat, a cocktail bar in the neighborhood.I met the owner, Margot Lecarpentier, at a food presentation and fell in love with her work.I’m always in awe of bartenders, and she has this beautiful way of presenting cocktails like they’re food, on a low counter rather than a high bar.

10开胃酒时间，我会前往附近的“战斗”鸡尾酒酒吧。我在一次食品展销会上认识了店主玛戈·勒卡庞捷，并爱上了她的作品。我一直对调酒师心存敬畏，玛戈递上鸡尾酒的方式宛如递食物般优雅，是放在低柜台而非高吧台上。

11You really feel like you’re being taken care of when you’re there.The cocktails change all the time, but one of my favorites is the Quatresse, a drink named after four ingredients that all start with an “s”: sage, Suze, syrup,and Scotch whisky, which I included inDrinking French.Margot explained to me that the neighborhood is actually called Combat because it hosted animal fights from the late 1700s until the middle of the following century, when city authorities banned the practice.

11在那儿，你会真切感到自己受到热情接待。鸡尾酒总在变，但有一款一直是我的最爱，那便是夸特雷斯，一种根据其中四种成分命名的鸡尾酒，每种成分都以字母s 打头：sage（鼠尾草）、Suze（苏兹）、syrup（糖浆）和Scotch whisky（苏格兰威士忌）。我把这款鸡尾酒收录在了《喝在法国》这本书里。玛戈向我解释说，这片街区其实就叫“战斗”，因为从18 世纪末这儿就开始举办动物格斗赛，直到19 世纪中市政当局禁止了这种做法。

12Everything in France has a story, including the drinking culture.The French have their café in the morning, their apéro in the afternoon… they’re a part of their social life and traditions.In the book, I wanted to take a deeper look at France through the lens of their drinks.For instance, take pastis, an anise-flavored alcohol.When it was introduced, it killed many regional apéritifs because everyone wanted to pretend like they were in Marseille, pastis’ hometown.Hence, regional apéritifs ended up falling out of favor.So it’s not just a drink—there’s an entire history behind it.

12在法国，一切都有来头，包括饮品文化。法国人上午喝咖啡，下午喝开胃酒……这都是他们社交生活和传统的一部分。在《喝在法国》里，我想通过法国人多样的饮品更深层地了解法国。以茴香酒为例，这是一种茴香风味的酒，一经引入便击败了很多地方的开胃酒，因为每个人都想假装他们是在茴香酒的出产地马赛。其他地方的开胃酒因而失宠。所以，饮品不仅仅是饮品——它的背后是整个历史。

Dinner and a soirée au calme

13For dinner, I might head over to a friend’s house around 9 pm—the French eat late! No drinks for me afterward.I’d just head home to bed.I banned screens in my bedroom, so I’ll usually spend some time reading.Right now, I’m working my way throughThe Seine:The River That Made Parisby Elaine Sciolino.■