枕水乌镇

文、图／郭晓娟

乌镇是首批中国历史文化名镇，京杭大运河依镇而过。Wuzhen is one in China’s first batch of famous historical and cultural towns,where the Grand Canal flows.

乌镇是首批中国历史文化名镇，拥有1300年建镇史，隶属于浙江省嘉兴市桐乡市，地处江浙沪“金三角”之地，河流纵横交织，京杭大运河依镇而过。十字形的内河水系把乌镇一分为四，当地人将四个区块分别称之为“东栅、南栅、西栅、北栅”。其中，东、西两栅被开发为旅游景点，也最为游客熟知。

东栅软语，西栅风情。

东栅是电视剧《似水年华》的主要取景地，以河成街，街桥相连，水乡风貌完整。在东栅，可以看到江南古镇的所有精华，各种建筑、厅堂、水阁、廊棚等一应俱全，手工作坊和传统商铺各具特色，特色展品琳琅满目。若有兴趣，可以驻足观赏民俗表演，商铺区的拳船、财神湾的高竿船、戏台上的花鼓戏，还有翰林第中的皮影戏，都是乌镇传统民俗的生动写照。东栅的老街上有众多的老建筑，其中最为著名的便是茅盾故居。乌镇是文学巨匠茅盾的故乡，他自1896年诞生至1909年离乡求学，在这幢故居中生活了13个春秋。如今，很多游客慕名而来，瞻仰先贤的同时，也在寻找《春蚕》《秋收》《林家铺子》中的生活片断，仿佛时光倒流回旧日里的江南水乡……

西栅由12个碧水环绕的小岛组成，60多座小桥将这些小岛串连在一起，老建筑依水而建，是典型的小桥流水景致。西栅虽与东栅同为主要景区，但这里没有东栅的繁闹市井，一切都经过重新整修和设计，街头巷尾的咖啡馆、酒吧，充满了文艺情怀。白天逛完西栅，千万不要着急离开，因为待到华灯初上，才是这里最动人时刻的开始。乘摇橹船夜游西栅是非常值得推荐的体验，置身光影交叠中才会发现，原来白天婉约的江南水乡，灯影桨声里竟如此璀璨夺目、分外迷人。

乌镇，不单是因为风景的美好让人心向往之，其淳朴和鲜活、由内而外散发的烟火气也是吸引人的地方。“从前的日色变得慢，车、马、邮件都很慢。”诗人木心眼中慢悠悠的乌镇，如今依然有迹可循。不同于西栅、东栅，南栅和北栅的老房子、老街、老桥还保持着最初的样子，就像不刻意修饰的村姑，淳朴自然的一面让人更加回味无穷。这里的夜，这里的水，这里的灯光和小巷，甚至是拐角的茶馆饭铺、悠悠的手划船，无不氤氲出水乡独有的烟火气，融化了游人的心。

游客在乌镇享受悠闲的水乡生活。Visitors enjoy a leisurely waterside life in Wuzhen.

乌镇保留着许多特色小作坊。图为坐落在东栅大街的高公生糟坊，创建于1872年。Wuzhen retains many characteristic workshops.The picture depicts Gaogongsheng Brewing Workshop at the East Gate Street,which was established in 1872.

南栅的老房子、老街、老桥保持着最初的样子，淳朴自然的一面让人更加回味无穷。The old houses,streets and bridges in the South Gate maintain their original look.Their simplicity and naturalness have a more lingering charm.

“来过，便不曾离开。”这是电视剧《似水年华》中英子留在乌镇的轻语。对于许多来过乌镇的人，这不仅是一句台词，更是一种心境。但凡去过乌镇的人，都会有这样的感受吧。

夜色中的西栅璀璨夺目、分外迷人。The West Gate appears dazzling and enchanting at night.

Wuzhen,as one of China’s first batch of famous historical and cultural towns,with a history of 1,300 years as a town,is under the jurisdiction of Tongxiang City,Jiaxing City,Zhejiang Province,and located in the“Golden Delta” of Jiangsu,Zhejiang and Shanghai.There is an intertwined river network in the town,where the Grand Canal flows.The cross-shaped inland water system divides Wuzhen into four parts,which are respectively known as “East Gate,South Gate,West Gate,and North Gate” to the natives.Among them,the East and West Gates have been developed into scenic spots,and are best known to tourists.

In the East Gate,you can see the essence of an ancient town in the south of the Yangtze River.There are all sorts of buildings,halls,waterside pavilions and corridors,distinctive manual workshops and traditional shops,as well as a great variety of characteristic exhibits.On the old street of the East Gate,there are numerous old buildings,among which,the Former Residence of Mao Dun is the most famous.

The West Gate consists of 12 islands which are surrounded by clear water and linked by more than 60 small bridges.There are old buildings built by water.All these present a typical view of small bridges over flowing water.When the evening lights are lit,you will enjoy the most impressive moment in the West Gate.A night tour on a boat in the West Gate is highly recommended.In the overlap of lightsand shadows,you will find that the waterside town that is graceful and restrained in the daytime appears so dazzling and enchanting amid the sound of paddling.

Wuzhen has not only glamorous scenery,but also an attractive worldly atmosphere,which is simple yet vivid.“Time was slow in the past,and remains slow at present.Carriages,horses,and mails could not reach it quickly” That leisurely Wuzhen in the eyes of poet Mu Xin is still traceable.Unlike the West and East Gates,the old buildings,streets and bridges in the South and North Gates still maintain their original look.Like unadorned country girls,they show their simplicity and naturalness,which have a more lingering charm.