慢时尚的慢工细活

Steve Inskeep （Host）： That tragedy caused many people to think more about who makes their clothes and how theyre made. Many people are pushing for whats called slow fashion. As NPRs Elizabeth Blair reports， its partly modeled after the slow food trend.

Elizabeth Blair （Byline）： People into slow food often buy local. They want to know how the animals were raised and whether pesticides were used on crops. Slow fashion is similar， says Soraya Darabi， co-founder of Zady， a new clothing line thats trying to practice sustainable manufacturing.

Soraya Darabi： Its about understanding the process or the origins of how things are made， where our products come from， how theyre constructed and by whom.

Blair： This idea of slow fashion has been around for a long time， but over the last two years， it has grown into a small but dedicated movement， partly in response to the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh. Georgetown University professor Pietra Rivoli says tragedies like the one in Bangladesh are a result of fast fashion—consumers buying lots of cheap clothes that are made in countries where theres little or no oversight of things like fire safety and wages.

Pietra Rivoli： We talk about a race to the bottom in apparel production with production chasing the lowest cost. I think the bottom right now is in Bangladesh.

Blair： Rivoli is the author of “The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy”. In the book， she traced the origins of a T-shirt from Walgreens that cost $5.99.

Rivoli： A lot of times there are demand surges from the West. You know， we need more of those pink T-shirts， you know， by next week. And these brands had never really thought about the fact that they might need to be monitoring for actual structural integrity of the buildings. That wasnt something that was really on their radar screen.

Blair： Supply chain integrity is important to the founders of Zady. Theyve come out with a new T-shirt thats an example of slow fashion. It was made entirely in the U.S. by companies that co-founder Maxine Bédat says aim to be labor and eco-friendly. The textile industry is one of the worlds biggest polluters.

Maxine Bédat： Its producing a product thats really tackling， in one T-shirt， all of the issues that the industry is facing.

Blair： The cotton for Zadys T-shirt comes from an organic cooperative in Texas. The shirt was cut and sewn by a North Carolina company， where the sewers own part of the company. And it was dyed by TS Designs， which says it uses the least environmentally damaging method of dyeing. The company also makes a T-shirt it calls Dirt to Shirt. Maxine Bédat says slow fashion does take a lot of time.

Bédat： What were doing is piecing together what is left of an industry that has totally been decimated.

Blair： Zadys T-shirt is $36.

Darabi： It is a little bit of an upfront investment. But its also， we believe， the way of the future—to own fewer but better things.

Unidentified Woman： Right now， we have enough merchandise to last till about 3 maybe 4 oclock.

Blair： On a recent weekend， a huge line snaked around a Goodwill in Los Angeles for a massive vintage clothing sale. Jenny Rieu was there looking for clothes from the 1960s.

Jenny Rieu： Cause I love the mod style. I love crazy prints—so hopefully. Who knows？

Blair： Rieu says for her， slow fashion is about recycling—hats and dresses and purses that have some history.

Rieu： It was owned by someone living somewhere at some point， and it already had a life. And Im here able to give it maybe a second or third life. So that makes me feel something. And also， you find more unique stuff.

Blair： Rieu says at the vintage sale， she bought a number of accessories from the 1950s， including pink cotton gloves and a wide-brim straw hat with flowers. She says it feels good to buy clothing that has lasted a long time without spending a fortune or leaving much of a footprint on the environment.

史蒂夫·英斯基普（主持人）：這场悲剧（编者注：2013年4月底，位于孟加拉国拉纳广场大楼发生坍塌事件，造成一千多名制衣工人死亡，该事件给过分追求速度而忽视劳工安全与保障的服装时尚产业敲响了警钟。）使很多人更多地考虑服装的生产者和生产过程。很多人积极提倡“慢时尚”。美国国家公共电台的伊丽莎白·布莱尔报道称，慢时尚基本上是在“慢食”潮后形成的。

伊丽莎白·布莱尔（撰稿人）：崇尚慢食主义的人经常买本地食物。他们想知道动物的饲养过程，以及杀虫剂有没有用于农作物。慢时尚与此类似，是试图实践可持续生产的新的服装系列，乍蒂公司的创办人之一索拉雅·达拉必如是说。

索拉雅·达拉必：慢时尚就是关于对生产过程和物品原始材料的了解，我们的产品从哪里来的，他们如何构建，由谁来构建。

布莱尔：慢时尚的概念已存在很久，但在过去两年，其发展成为小小的专项运动，部分原因是为了回应发生在孟加拉拉纳广场的一场灾难。乔治城大学教授皮埃查·瑞沃里说像孟加拉（厂房倒塌）类似的悲剧是快时尚引起的后果——消费者购买大量廉价服装，这些服装是在对诸如用火安全和工资等问题缺乏监管的国家生产出来的。

皮埃查·瑞沃里：我们说的是服装产业中挖空心思追逐最低成本的竞赛。我想目前的谷底就在孟加拉了。

布莱尔：瑞沃里是《一件T恤在全球经济中的漫游》一书的作者。书中，她追踪了来自沃尔格林（美国的一家药品、食品零售连锁企业）的一件价格为5.99美元的T恤的生产源头。

瑞沃里：很多时候西方国家需求激增。你懂的，我们需要更多那种粉红T恤，下周就要。这些品牌的公司（只想着大量生产）从来没有想过他们可能需要检测这些厂房的结构安全性。那并不在他们的考虑范围。

布莱尔：供应链的完整性对乍蒂的创办人来说很重要。他们生产的新T恤就是慢时尚的典范。全程都由美国公司生产，创办人之一玛克欣·贝达称，这些公司以改善劳动力环境和不损害生态环境为目标。毕竟纺织业是世界上最大的污染源之一。

玛克欣·贝达：我们在生产能解决本行业正面临的所有问题的一件产品，就是这件T恤。

布莱尔：乍蒂的T恤采用来自德克萨斯州一家有机合作社的棉花。衣服由北卡罗来纳州的一家公司剪裁和缝制，缝纫工人是该公司其中的老板。TS设计公司负责染色，据称染色过程采用对环境破坏最少的方式。该公司还生产一种名为“泥衫”的T恤。玛克欣·贝达说慢时尚的确需要花很多时间。

贝达：我们现在做的就是将行业中被完全摧毁后剩下的部分拼凑起来。

布莱尔：乍蒂的T恤卖36美元。

达拉必：这有点像预先投资。但我们相信这同时也是未来的发展方向——拥有更少但更好的东西。

不知名女声：现在我们有足够的商品可以持续到大概3点甚至4点。

布莱尔：最近一个周末，一条长长的队伍环绕着洛杉矶的一家慈善二手服装店古德维尔，因为有大型的复古服饰大甩卖。珍妮·睿乌正在那里寻找20世纪60年代的服装。

珍妮·睿乌：因为我喜欢摩登派风格。我喜欢夸张的印花——如此充满希望。谁知道呢？

布莱尔：正如睿乌所说，慢时尚就是回收利用——有些历史的帽子、裙子和包包。

睿乌：这在某个时间点被住在某处的某人所拥有，它已经有过一次生命。我在这里能够给它第二次或者第三次生命。这让我有所感触。而且，你能找到更多独特的东西。

布莱尔：睿乌说在这次复古服饰大甩卖中，她买了很多20世纪50年代的配饰，包括粉红的棉质手套和一顶带花的宽沿草帽。她说不必花大钱或者没有对环境造成多大污染，就买到拥有悠久历史的服装，让她感觉良好。