老挝泰德赛瀑布：徒步旅行的好地方

乔松普·萨达冯

In training for a Vangvieng Trail hike at the end of this year， my friends and I would normally walk along the Mekong riverbank to prepare for such an event but one recent weekend we decided to try somewhere different.

Out of the many places we considered， we settled upon the Tad Xai waterfall at Ban Hatkhai in Borikhamxay province， which lies within the Phou Khaokhouay National Protected Area.

Reached by travelling on Road 13 South， its near the border between Vientiane and Borikhamxay province， and is about three hours drive from Vientiane.

We chose this place because we heard that trekking guides are available， which we thought was a good idea because we were by no means experienced trekkers.

I have been to Tad Xai a few times before， but mostly just to have a picnic and enjoy the waterfall， which is one of the most beautiful of the many that are to be found in the national protected area. This was the first time I would be able to explore the area more fully.

We arrived at Ban Hatkhai around 10 am where a local tourist officer was waiting to guide us on the walk. The fee for each of us was 45，000 kip1. It was several kilometres from the village to the park itself and some sections of the road were quite rough. Drivers would need a vehicle with good clearance or four-wheel drive.

We arrived at the parking place which was shaded by large trees and bordered by a stream which burbled through various shaped rocks. It would make a good picnic spot and you could also have a dip as the water was not at all deep. A sign pointed the way to Tad Xai waterfall， which could be found at the end of a 400 metre path.

But we were intent on having a long walk so we went in another direction along a small trail which passed through woods， so the tree canopy protected us from the hot sun.

We quickly became immersed in our environment and stopped to look at the unfamiliar plants and flowers that we encountered in profusion.

Our surroundings were so enjoyable that we walked slowly and took loads of photos， forgetting that the purpose of the expedition was to get in training for the strenuous Vangvieng Trail. Never mind， the whole experience was all part of the goal， we told ourselves.

After a while we heard the unmistakable sound of a waterfall， which soon came into view. The water cascaded down from a high cliff， so it is aptly named Pha Xay waterfall， or cliff waterfall. It was one of those hidden gems that you would only encounter by walking deep into this scenic area.

After lingering for a while to enjoy the view and taking more photos， we continued on our way through more oddly-shaped trees and plants and then came to an open field of green grass interspersed with rocks.

Then we were back in the forest again， walking through small and large trees， listening to the sounds of insects and birds against the backdrop of faraway waterfalls， and observing the strange plant life around us. We became engrossed in our surroundings and never had time to feel tired. Now and again we saw groups of colourful butterflies， and stopped to relax near a small stream.

The many streams that traverse the park meant we sometimes had to walk across wooden bridges and near the end of the trail we came upon a mass of different sized boulders piled up on top of each other alongside a large stream overhung with dense foliage.

The tall thick trees were a wonderful sight and created a calming atmosphere so we took a long break and breathed in the smells. We felt we had earned a rest as this was the first trek we had made in this kind of environment.

From here we took a different path back， which led us to the main Tad Xai cascade where most people come to enjoy a picnic.

The waterfall has seven levels over which pours a torrent of foaming white water on its way through Phou Khaokhouay， creating a spectacular sight.

This made another great rest stop and we loitered here for some time before making our way back to the parking area， deeply satisfied with our achievement and our decision to visit this awe-inspiring area.

我和朋友们计划今年年底去万荣步道徒步旅行 。为了准备这种旅行，我们通常会沿湄公河河岸行走，但最近一个周末，我们决定去不同的地方走走。

我们考虑了很多地方，最终选定了波里坎赛省班哈凯的泰德赛瀑布，它位于普考奎山国家保护区内。

那里靠近万象和波里坎赛省交界处，距离万象约3小时车程，沿南13号公路即可抵达。

我们选择这个地方是因为听说这里有徒步导游，由于我们缺乏徒步旅行的经验，所以觉得有个导游比较好。

我以前去过泰德赛几次，但主要就是去野餐和观赏瀑布。这个国家保护区里有很多瀑布，泰德赛瀑布是最美丽的瀑布之一。这回是我第一次能更全面地探索这个地区。

上午10点左右我们到达班哈凯，当地的一位旅游官员正等着为我们此次徒步当向导。我们每人的费用为4.5万基普。从村子到公园里还有几公里路，有些路段相当崎岖。开车的话得开高底盘或四轮驱动的车。

我们到达了停车场，这里有大树遮荫，场边还有一条溪流，潺潺流过形状各异的岩石。这是野餐的好地方，也可以游会儿泳，因为水一点儿都不深。一块路牌指示了通往泰德赛瀑布的路，沿着一条400米长的小径走到尽头就能看到了。

但是我们打算多走些路，于是便沿着一条林间小路向另一个方向走去，树冠帮我们抵挡了炎热的阳光。

我们很快就沉浸在周围的环境中，沿途遇到许多陌生的植物和鲜花，我们不时停下来观赏。

周围的景色令人愉快，我们慢慢溜达着，拍了很多照片，忘了这次短程旅行的目的是为艰苦的万荣步道旅行做准备。我们安慰自己说，没关系，整个体验都是实现目标的一部分。

不一会儿，我们听到了确定无疑的瀑布声，很快瀑布便映入眼帘。瀑布从一处高高的悬崖倾泻而下，因此被贴切地称为帕夏瀑布（即悬崖瀑布）。这个瀑布是隐藏的瑰宝之一，只有深入这个景区才能看到。

我们逗留了一会儿，欣赏风景，又拍了些照片，继续前行，穿过一些奇形怪状的树木和植物，来到一片开阔的绿色草地，草地上散布着岩石。

之后，我们返回了森林，经过大大小小的树木，听着远处瀑布背景下昆虫和鸟儿的鸣叫，观察周围奇异的植物。我们全神贯注于所处的环境，根本无暇顾及疲倦。我们不时看到一群群色彩斑斓的蝴蝶，便在一条小溪旁停下来休息。

公园中有许多溪流穿行，这意味着我们有时必须走过木桥。快到小路的尽头时，我们在一条大溪流旁发现了一片石堆，许多大小不一的卵石层层堆积，溪边大树枝叶繁茂，掩映溪水。

茂密的大树构成美妙的景观，营造了宁静的氛围，于是我们在此好好休息了一番，呼吸着各种气息。这是我们第一次在这样的环境中徒步旅行，我们觉得可以像这样休息一下。

我们从这里返回时走了另一条路。这条路把我们带到了泰德赛主瀑布，大多数人都是来野餐的。

瀑布有七級，逐级倾泻而下的激流喷溅出白色的浪花，一路穿过普考奎山国家公园，形成一道壮观的风景。

这里又是个可以好好歇脚的地方，我们在此处闲逛了一阵子才返回停车场。对于决定来这个令人惊叹的地方并且收获满满，我们都感到非常满意。

（译者为“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛获奖者;单位：常州工学院）