读着百家姓路过你的世界
2020-09-10杨玺
杨玺
重庆轨道交通站名里,哪个字出现的频率最高?
一番统计下来,“家”字位居榜首,达到22个 ,光是2号线,含“家”字的站点就有6个——曾家岩、袁家岗、谢家湾、杨家坪、金家湾、刘家坝。
这其实是重庆地名特点的一个缩影。对于老重庆人来说,类似这样的地名张口就来,甚至可以对应着“赵钱孙李周吴郑王”的顺序,就像是背《百家姓》:赵家坝、钱家院、孙家花园、李家沱、周家坪、吴家坪、郑家塆、王家坡……
Which word appears most frequently in the names of Chongqing rail transit stations?
According to statistics, the word"home" topped the list, hitting 22. On Line 2 alone, there are 6 stations named with the word "Jia (literally home)" -- Zengjiayan, Yuanjiagang, Xiejiawan, Yangjiaping, Jinjiawan and Liujiaba.
This is actually a microcosm of how the places in Chongqing are named. For native Chongqing citizens, place names of this sort are too numerous to enumerate, and they can even recite them: Zhaojiaba, Qianjiayuan, Sunjiahuayuan, Lijiatuo, Zhoujiaping, Wujiaping, Zhengjiayu, Wangjiapo..., following the order of the surnames in the Hundred Family Surnames, that is, "Zhao-Qian-Sun-Li-Zhou-WuZheng-Wang".
地名背后的家族史Family History Behind Place Names
姓氏地名,我国各地都有。不过在重庆则尤显复杂有趣,除了涉及姓氏众多,各种地形也无所不包,十足体现了山城江城特色,比如汪山、李家沱、曾家岩、董家溪、杨家坪、马家堡、肖家湾、陈家坝、刘家台、王家坡……
以自家姓氏来为地域冠名,自然是一件光宗耀祖的事,一般来说,只有大家族才有这样的荣耀。
“重庆老城里那些以姓為名的街名巷名,大多在明代就已经形成了。”重庆地名文化研究专家李正权说,明代以来,随着长江上下游的经济交流增多,重庆城里出现了一些世家大族,他们的住宅往往占地好几亩,甚至形成街道,于是便有了这些姓氏地名,“明代的重庆老城,有蹇、刘、牟、曹四姓世家,于是就有蹇家桥、刘家台、曹家巷。”
曹家巷如今依然存在,北接新华路,南连陕西路,位于朝天门批发市场,很是热闹。
最显赫的蹇家当年有“蹇半城”一说,除了蹇家巷、蹇家桥,还留下了一条街叫天官府。天官府本是明朝吏部尚书蹇义的府邸,为明宣宗所赐。自古以来,重庆人在朝廷做大官的不少,但由皇帝赏赐府邸的就蹇义一个。因为天官府名气大,府邸所在的通远门和南纪门之间斜坡上的街巷,逐渐就被统称为“天官府”。
清康熙年间,位于南纪门内的重庆镇总兵韩成的故宅“韩府大堂”,也因其规模庞大,留下了韩府街、韩家大巷、韩家小巷的地名。
如果说老城里的那些地名记载的是世家望族的荣耀,那么城外的这些姓氏地名,则承载了更多的创业艰辛。
明末清初连年战乱,四川人口锐减,全省在籍人口最少时仅18000余户,约9万余人。重庆最少的时候甚至只剩下不到一千家,以致城内出现“群虎白日出游”的景象。
1670年,康熙帝颁布《康熙三十三年招民填川诏》,下令从湖南、湖北、广东等地向四川移民。
当时的重庆民生凋敝,到处都是荒地,迁移来的老百姓“插苫为业”,选中一块荒地后,围上一圈竹竿竹条就可作为自己的田产,还可享受各种田赋减免。
地多、人少,家家户户都圈出一大片地来,落地生根,开枝散叶。随着家业扩大、人丁兴旺,久而久之,人们便以这家的姓氏来指代这片地方了。
Place names that derive from surname can be found everywhere in our country. Those of Chongqing, in particular, are more complicated and interesting. Besides the numerous surnames involved, all kinds of terrain are also not new, fully reflecting the distinct features of the mountain city and the river city. For instance, Wangshan, Lijiatuo, Zengjiayan, Dongjiaxi, Yangjiaping, Majiabao, Xiaojiawan, Chenjiaba, Liujiatai, Wangjiapo...
Naming a region with one’s surname is certainly a matter that can glorify and illuminate the ancestors. Generally speaking, only families with strong backgrounds have such an honor.
"Most of streets and lanes in the old Chongqing city got their names from surnames of certain families in the Ming Dynasty," said Li Zhengquan, an expert on Chongqing place name culture. Since the Ming Dynasty, with the increase of economic exchanges between the upper and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, emerged some aristocratic families in Chongqing. Their houses often covered several acres of land, some even built with streets, hence came into being the place names from surnames." In the old city of Chongqing in the Ming Dynasty, there were four aristocratic families of Jian, Liu, Mou and Cao, so there were places named Jianjiaqiao, Liujiatai and Caojiaxiang."
Among them, Caojiaxiang still exists today. Located in the Chaotianmen Wholesale Market, it is connected to Xinhua Road in the north and Shaanxi Road in the south, and is a busy street.
The most prominent Jian family was once called "Half City of Jian" in those days. In addition to Jianjiaxiang and Jianjiaqiao, the family also left a street named Tianguanfu. Tianguanfe was originally the residence of Jian Yi, minister of the Ministry of Personnel in the Ming Dynasty, granted by Emperor Xuanzong. Since ancient times, Chongqing has been home to many a highranking officials in the imperial court, but Jian Yi was the only one who was rewarded a residence by the emperor. Due to the great reputation of Tianguanfu, the streets and lanes on the slope between Tongyuan Gate and Nanji Gate, where the residence was located, were gradually collectively referred to as "Tianguanfu".
During the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty, the "Hanfu Lobby", the old residence of Han Cheng, the commander-in-chief of Chongqing Town, located in Nanji Gate, also left behind place names of Hanfujie, Hanjiadaxiang and Hanjiaxiaoxiang due to its huge scale.
If the place names in the old city are records of the glories of the aristocratic families, then the surname-based place names outside the city carry more hardships of start-ups.
Years of wars amid the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties led to a huge population drop in Sichuan, with only 18,000 households and about 90,000 people at its lowest. And in the case of Chongqing, the number of households was even less than 1,000, resulting in the scene of "tigers traveling in the daytime" in the city.
In 1670, Emperor Kangxi issued the Imperial Edict on Immigration from Huguang to Sichuan in the thirty-third year of Kangxi which ordered people living in Hunan, Hubei, Guangdong and other places to move to Sichuan.
At that time, Chongqing was in a mass impoverishment, with wastelands being seen everywhere. The migrated people selected a wasteland, enclosed it with a circle of bamboo poles and strips, then they got their own property and enjoyed various feudal land tax deductions.
With more land and fewer people, every household had circled a large area of land, taking root and thriving. As the properties and population got larger and larger, people began name the places with their surnames.
用姓氏串起的路Roads Strung Together by Surnames
也许3号线上接连的郑家院子、唐家院子、童家院子会让外地人比较惊奇,但实际上,还有比这更密集更典型的一条路,那就是从两路口到杨家坪沿线。
一出两路口,首先就会经过王家坡——这里因清代江西王姓叔侄来此开荒种地而得名。
王家坡位于長江一路七孔桥一带的倾斜山坡上,“头顶”鹅岭“贰厂”文创公园,“脚踩”菜园坝重庆火车站。这里曾经是重庆市的红旗社区,是全国闻名的卫生模范街道,因此还命名了一条红旗街。当年坡上一排排三层的红砖房依山而建、鳞次栉比,学校、店铺、医务室一应俱全。如今的王家坡经历了拆迁,早没了往日的热闹,只有一座僻静的竹林公园和些许老房子。而近旁的皇冠大扶梯,现在成了游客的打卡景点。
沿长江一路前行不远,左侧有条下行的支马路,名叫下徐家坡,也是因为清代有徐姓人家住在这片坡地而得名。下徐家坡道路蜿蜒曲折,车流量却不小——住在“坡上”的居民,以及到两路口派出所、渝中区福利院、王家坡社区居委会办事的人都要从这里经过。
继续前行,由长江一路转为长江二路就到了肖家湾。肖家湾分为上肖家湾和下肖家湾,在肖家湾车站以长江二路为界,往坡下菜袁路黄沙溪方向的,自然就是下肖家湾,重庆首次采用架空栈道来修建的公园——下肖家湾公园就在这里,栈桥总长为466米,梯步总长为 1689米,整体高度落差约70米。走在梯步上,不管是仰望还是俯瞰,乍一看都让人颇为惊悚,以致有游客专程为此前来打卡。
长江二路在大坪拐了个弯,折向袁家岗方向,途中会经过马家堡。马家堡地方不大,但对于“好吃狗”来说,这里“开半天”面馆的名头不小,早上就着一碟薄如纸片的凉拌猪耳吃一碗小面,着实安逸。
吃了面一路往前,经过袁家岗、谢家湾,就到了杨家坪。可以想见,这一路当年曾是袁姓、谢姓和杨姓人家聚居、耕种的地方。
Perhaps the successive place names such as Zhengjiayuanzi, Tangjiayuanzi, and Tongjiayuanzi alongside Line 3 may surprise visitors, yet there is more typical road with more surname-based place names, that is the road stretching from Lianglukou to the Yangjiaping.
Once get out of Lianglukou, you will first pass Wangjiapo, which was named after a man and his nephew from a Wang family in Jiangxi Province, who came here in the Qing Dynasty to open up wasteland and cultivate crops.
Wangjiapo sits on the sloping hillside under the Seven-hole Bridge at the First Yangtze River Road. It stands behind the"TESTBED 2" Cultural and Creative Park in Eling and sets foots on the Chongqing Railway Station at Caiyuanba. It used to be the Hongqi Community in Chongqing, a well-known health model street across the country. Therefore, a Hongqi Street was also named. In those days, continuous rows of three-story red brick houses on the slope were built leaning the mountains, lined up with schools, shops and infirmaries. Today’s Wangjiapo, after demolition, has long lost its former liveliness, with only a secluded bamboo forest park and some old houses. The nearby Huangguan Escalator has now become a clock-in attraction for tourists.
Go all the way along the Yangtze River, there is a branch road on the left, named Xiaxujiapo, which is also named after the family of Xu that lived on this slope in Qing Dynasty. The road winds and twists, but with a huge traffic -- residents living on the "slope" and people who go to the police station at Lianglukou, Yuzhong District Welfare Home and Wangjiapo Community Neighborhood Committee all pass through here.
Continue to move forward, from the First Yangtze River Road to the Second Yangtze River Road, you’ll arrive at Xiaojiawan. Xiaojiawan is divided into Shangxiaojiawan and Xiaxiaojiawan by the Second Yangtze River Road, and heading downhill for Caiyuanlu and Huangshaxi, you will arrive at Xiaxiaojiawan, where the Xiaxiaojiawan Park, a park built by Chongqing using overhead plank roads for the first time, is located here. The total length of trestle is 466 meters, the ladder steps 1689 meters, and the overall drop height is about 70 meters. Walking on the ladder step, whether looking up or down, it was quite frightening. Many tourists come from afar to set their foot on it.
The Second Yangtze River Road takes a turn in Daping and turns towards Yuanjiagang, passing Majiabao. Majiabao is not big in land size. But the "half-dayopen" noodle restaurants here enjoy a wide reputation among the "foodies". In the morning, it is really comfortable to eat a bowl of noodles with a plate of cold pig ears as thin as paper.
After eating noodles, walking all the way through Yuanjiagang and Xiejiawan, you’ll get to Yangjiaping. It is conceivable that this road was once a place where people surnamed Yuan, Xie and Yang lived and cultivated.
时尚之城藏着旧城时光Old Time Hidden in the Fashion City
尽管袁家岗、谢家湾、杨家坪都是响当当的地名,不过,曾有很长一段时间,生活在这一带的居民,更喜欢称这里为“建设厂”,而他们多半也和建设厂有着千丝万缕的联系。
重庆建设厂,全名国营建设机床厂,前身是1889年张之洞创建的湖北枪炮厂,即后来的汉阳兵工厂,被誉为“民族工业摇篮”。建设厂曾经是重庆市一号信箱的主用单位,也是重庆有史以来唯一使用1位数信箱的单位,可见其身世显赫。当年从袁家岗田家炳中学到杨家坪直港大道,都是它的地盘。1991年,建设厂改制为“建设工业集团公司”,2009年完成搬迁,离开了谢家湾。昔日高大的厂房、高耸的烟囱、热火朝天的车间、人头攒动的厂区……以及代表了一个时代的“建设厂”这个名字,都被万象城、龙湖西城天街、艾佳沁园等耳目一新的符号所代替。
不过,就在时尚繁华的商圈背后,我们依然能找到建设厂烙下的历史印记。与万象城一墙之隔,就是建设厂老家属区。这里的房子普遍不高,外墙被时光染上了暗色调。家属区的喧嚣与万象城的热闹,如同放置在一起的沱茶和咖啡,各自散发着不同的香和苦。
老家属区里,沿街的一排店铺组成了被时间遗忘的“旧日小集市”。衣店的商品卖得非常便宜,简单地理个发只需要花5块钱。到了夜里,三步一家火锅,五步一摊烧烤,不少有名的老火锅都是建设厂子弟开的,很多人开着导航专门找过来……
“原来建设厂里啥都有,幼儿园、小学、中学、医院、电影院,不出厂都能吃好耍好。”住在建设厂家属区的陈婆婆說,厂区变成了住宅小区,不少火锅店的老板挣了钱,还是买这里的小区房,“还是没走出建设厂。”
Although big names now, Yuanjiagang, Xiejiawan and Yangjiaping were called by the residents living in this area as "Construction Factory" for a long time, and most of them were also inextricably linked with the construction factory.
Chongqing Construction Factory, whose full name is the State-owned Construction Machine Tool Factory, was formerly the Hubei Guns Factory founded by Zhang Zhidong in 1889, later became Hanyang Arsenal, hailed as the "Cradle of National Industry". The Construction Factory used to be a key customer of Chongqing No.1 Mailbox, and was also the only unit in Chongqing’s that used 1-digit mailbox, a sign of its prominence. In those days, from Tin Ka Ping Secondary School at Yuanjiagang to the Zhigang Avenue at Yangjiaping, it was all its territory. The Construction Factory was transformed into a "Construction Industry Group Company" in 1991 and left Xiejiawan in 2009 because of relocation. The tall factory buildings, towering chimneys, bustling workshops, crowded factory areas... and the name"Construction Factory", which represented the era, were replaced by refreshing symbols such as The Mixc, Longfor Paradise Walk and Aijia Qinyuan.
However, behind the fashionable and prosperous business districts, we can still find the historical mark of the Construction Factory. Separated from The Mixc by a wall is the old dependant’s area of the Construction Factory. The houses here are generally not high, with their outer walls darkened by the fleeting time. The hustle and bustle of this area and bustling scenes at The Mixc, when put together, are like tuo tea and coffee, each emitting different fragrance and bitterness.
In the old family area, a row of shops along the street formed an "old small market" forgotten by time. The goods in the clothing store are very cheap, and it costs only 5 yuan for a haircut. The street is bustling at night. You’ll meet a hot pot restaurant every three steps and a barbecue booth every five steps. Many famous old hot pots restaurants are opened by the children of former employees of the Construction Factory. Many a visitor even drive here following the navigation...
"The Construction Factory used to have everything in it, kindergartens, primary schools, secondary schools, hospitals and cinemas. We could have a good day without leaving the factory," said Granny Chen, who lives in the family area of the Construction Factory. After the factory was turned into a residential area, many hotpot owners earned much money and bought their own houses here, "still live in the Construction Factory."