堡林爵丰年2008年份香槟

文｜Tersina Shieh 编、译｜张恬熙

很高兴我最近参加了堡林爵丰年2008年份香槟午宴发布会，我可是个从来不会拒绝起泡酒的人，更何况2008对于香槟而言是个传奇年份。

I never say no to bubbles so it was with pleasure that I attended the launch of Bollinger La Grande Année 2008 lunch recently, and especially that 2008 is a legendary vintage for Champagne.

2008年香槟区的气候条件很好，生长季节气候凉爽且疾病风险率很低。在收获季的最后几周气温有所上升，这让葡萄的酸度和集中度都更好。按《醇鉴》的评分，这就是满分年份，这样的香槟是真正值得收藏的。

堡林爵丰年2008年份香槟混酿了来自18个不同村庄的葡萄，其中71%是黑皮诺，其余是霞多丽。这是该系列中黑皮诺比例第二高的年份，仅比1979年份的75%黑皮诺比例少一点。堡林爵丰年香槟的风格来自于小型旧橡木桶中发酵，拥有圆润而丰满的口感。得益于9年的酒泥陈酿，它有着富有层次感的花香、香料气息以及新鲜的酸度。

堡林爵的出口部经理巴斯蒂安·马里亚尼解释道：堡林爵就是匠心之作，与美食搭配相得益彰。为了证明这一点，我们在半岛酒店的克利伯餐厅里享用了午餐，用4道菜搭配标准瓶和1.5升装的堡林爵丰年2008年份香槟。葡萄酒在大酒瓶中会发展得相对缓慢，但同时也会更有活力，标准瓶里的葡萄酒新鲜度仍维持得很好，但有些许泥土芬芳。巴斯蒂安建议大瓶装的香槟搭配味道较清淡的菜肴，标准瓶的香槟搭配味道较浓郁的菜肴。在午宴上，大瓶香槟配生腌薄片龙虾相当美味，标准瓶香槟配烤鹌鹑很不错，但如果加上酱汁就会味道太浓了，即使这瓶充满男人味儿的“詹姆斯·邦德香槟”也无法驾驭。

巴斯蒂安的另一观点是香槟（或者用传统法酿造的起泡酒）有两段生命历程。第一段是在除渣之前，这时葡萄酒在发展它的复杂度。第二段是在除渣后开始，葡萄酒发展出新鲜感和酸度。正因如此，堡林爵将每瓶丰年2008年份香槟的除渣日期都标在了酒瓶的背标上。除渣日期越晚的起泡酒，口感越新鲜。因此，下次你在购买高级香槟时，最好选择除渣日期较晚的酒款——如果你能在酒标上找到这些信息。

我没有喝过太多2008年份的香槟，但根据堡林爵丰年2008年份香槟的品质以及各种报告来看，2008年份肯定值得收藏。你可以通过捷成洋酒购买堡林爵香槟。

2008 had perfect weather condition in Champagne, cool climate growing season with minimum disease risks.Temperature increased in the last few weeks before harvest resulting in fruits with fine acidity and great concentration.According to Decanter, it is a 5/5 vintage and the wines are real keepers.

La Grande Année 2008 is a blend of grapes from 18 crus (villages),with 71% Pinot Noir and the rest being Chardonnay, it is the second vintage with the highest Pinot in the blend, just a little less that the 1979 vintage with 75% Pinot Noir.True to La Grande Années style, the wine was fermented in small aged old barrels giving it a round and rather rich mouthfeel, which is supported by layers of aromas from floral to exotic spices and fresh acidity, thanks to its 9 years of lees ageing.

Bollingers Export Area Manager Bastien Mariani explained that Bollinger is all about craftsmanship and gastronomy.To illustrate this,we were treated a 4-course lunch at Clippers in The Peninsula paired with standard bottle and magnum La Grande Année 2008.Wine evolves slower in big bottles.The magnum is livelier while the standard bottle,still fresh but with an earthy undertone.According to Bastien, magnum complements lighter flavoured dishes while standard bottle is best served with stronger flavoured dishes.The magnum with langoustine carpaccio was excellent.The standard bottle was paired with the roasted quail,which was pleasant, but together with the sauce was a touch too powerful even for this manly James Bond Champagne.

Another point that Bastien mentioned was that Champagne (or sparkling wine made in Traditional Method) has two lives.The first was before disgorgement when the wine develops its complexity and the second life starts after disgorgement when freshness and acidity come into play.Because of this, Bollinger now puts the disgorgement date on the back label of La Grande Année 2008.A more recent disgorged sparkling wine will be fresher than the one that has been disgorged for a while.Therefore next time you buy premium Champagne for cellaring,its best to get those with a later disgorgement date - if it is mentioned on the label.

I havent tried a lot of 2008 vintage Champagne but judging from Bollinger La Grande Année 2008 and various reports, 2008 is certainly worth keeping.Bollinger is available from Jebsen Fine Wines.