Plastic Microbeads in Cosmetics: Regulations and Alternatives

Wang Haiyan

Abstract The concept of microbeads and the use of plastic microbeads (as a form of micro plastic) in cosmetics were introduced. The legislations related to prohibition of plastic microbeads in cosmetics in different countries were reviewed. And the harzards and alternatives of plastic microbeads were described.

Keywords micro plastic; plastic microbeads; cosmetics.

What are microbeads and why are they harmful?

A research team from university of Plymouth, university of Southampton and Sir Alister Hardy Foundation for Ocean Science, published an article namedLost at Sea:Where Is All the Plastic?in the famous journalScienceof the American Association for Scientific Development in 2004, and the concept of microplastic was first proposed.[1]

According to the statistics of the United Nations, about 8 million tons of plastic waste dumped into the oceans every year. It is estimated that in 2050, the plastic in the ocean will outweigh all the fish in the sea. Countless large items of plastic debris are accumulating in marine habitats worldwide and may persist for centuries. Over the past years, large items of plastic debris have frequently been recorded in habitats from poles to the equator. However,small fragments had received far less attention. Richard C. Thompson’s team found numerous fragments among marine sediments, ～50 μm in diameter. These fragments were identified as plastic by FT-IR spectroscopy, mainly contained nine polymers: acrylic, alkyd, poly (ethylene:propylene), polyamide (nylon), polyester, polyethylene,polymethylacrylate, polypropylene, and polyvinyl-alcohol.Marine organisms are harmed by microplastics. Large plastic items can cause suffocation and entanglement and disrupt digestion in birds, fish, and mammals. Given the rapid increase in plastic production, the longevity of plastic, and the disposable nature of plastic items, Richard C.Thompson forecasted that the contamination caused by microplastics is likely to increase. But more work is needed to establish whether there are any environmental consequences of this micro plastic.[2]

The US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration of America classifies microplastics as less than 5 millimeters in diameter. Subsequently, the EU adopted the upper limit of 5 millimeters to classify the microplastics in the Directive of the Ocean Strategy Framework.[3]At present, microplastics refer to plastic particles with a particle size less than 5 millimeters, mainly derived from commodities, industrial additions and degradation of bulk plastics.[4]

Microbeads in cosmetics

As a type of microplastics, plastic microbeads are widely used in personal care products and cosmetics.Personal care products and cosmetics that contain plastic microbeads include toothpaste, shower, shampoo, eye shadow, deodorant, blush, foundation, skin cream, hair spray, nail polish, mascara, shaving cream, baby products,cleansing milk, bubble bath, emulsion, hair dye, sunscreen and so on. The amount of additions is about 1%～90%.Plastic microbeads used in personal care products and cosmetics are mainly divided into two categories: thermoplastic plastics, such as polyethylene, polypropylene,polystyrene and polytetrafluoroethylene; thermosetting plastics, such as polyurethane and polyester. For instance,polyurethane can be used in mask, sunscreen, mascara and so on as a film forming; ethylene/acrylate copolymer can be used in waterproof sunscreen products as a film forming agent and gel agent.[5]

Worldwide action

As early as May 2014, the New york State Assemble passed legislation banning the plastic microbeads. The bill came into force on 5 May, 2014. In June of the same year, Illinois was the first state to ban the manufacture and sale of cosmetic products containing plastic microbeads.On 29 December, 2015, President Obama signed the bill H.R.1321—Microbead-Free Waters Act of 2015, which prohibits the production and sale of soap, toothpaste and other cosmetics which contain plastic microbeads in the United States. The measure phased out manufacturing cosmetic products containing plastic microbeads have been produced by 1 July, 2018. As of 1 July, 2018, the sale of cosmetics containing plastic microbeads will be completely prohibited from sale.[6]

In December 2014, Belgium, Austria, Luxemburg,Netherlands and Sweden issued a joint statement calling for an EU ban on microplastics in detergents and cosmetics.

In October 2015, the trade association Cosmetics Europe recommended that its membership discontinue microbead use in rinse-off products by 2020.

On 29 September, 2016, the Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety issued the administrative notice of the amendment to the Regulation on Safety Standards of Cosmetics. The main content of the amendment was to prohibit the use of plastic microbeads in cosmetics. Since July 2017, South Korea has banned the use of plastic microbeads in cosmetics. And from July 2018, it also bans the sale of cosmetics containing plastic microbeads.

In November 2016, the Canadian Federal Gazette issued the Microbeads in Toiletries Regulations, which came into effect on 1 January, 2018. From 1 January, 2018 onwards, no person can manufacture and import toiletries containing plastic microbeads unless the toiletries are also natural health products or non-prescription drugs. As of 1 July, 2018, the sale of toiletries containing plastic microbeads were prohibited unless the toiletries are natural health products or non-prescription drugs. In July 2019, it will be prohibited to sell all cosmetic products containing plastic microbeads, including non-prescription drugs and natural health products.

On 23 June, 2017, the European Commission issued revised criteria for six detergent cleaning products.These six products are laundry detergents, industrial laundry detergents, automatic dishwasher detergents,industrial dishwasher detergents, hand dishwashing detergents and hard surface cleaners. All the detergents that has been awarded the EU Eco label will not contain plastic microbeads.

On 4 December, 2017, the New Zealand government completed a revision of the legal regulations on the prohibition of the production and sale of specific products containing plastic microbeads, which came into force in early June 2018. The Ordinance will prohibit the manufacture and sale of wash-off products containing plastic microbeads for the purposes of exfoliation, cleaning,abrasive cleaning or visual appearance of products. The two types of plastic microbead products will be affected:wash-off cosmetics, such as facial cleansers, body exfoliating products, toothpastes and hand lotions; abrasive cleaning product for the household, car or industrial.

On 9 January, 2018, ban on the manufacture of products containing plastic microbeads came into force in the UK. The UK government described the move as a“landmark step” in what it has billed as “one of the world’s toughest bans” on microbeads. The manufacturers of cosmetics and personal care products will no longer be able to add the tiny plastic pieces known as “plastic microbeads" to rinse-off products such as facial grind paste,shower gel and toothpaste. On 5 February, 2018, the UK issued a G/TBT/N/GBR/30 bulletin on the draft of the Environmental Protection(Microbeads) (Scotland) Regulations(2018), which prohibits the use of plastic microsbeads as an ingredient in the manufacture of rinse-off product,personal care products and any products containing plastic microbeads. These regulations extend Scotland only, and came into force on 19 June, 2018.

In 2018, Chinese Taiwan also announced a ban on all cosmetic products containing microbeads. The ban,which follows similar bans in the US and the UK, came into force on 1 July, 2018. Producers as well as retailers will be fined if prohibited product is found.

China has not yet issued relevant policies to prohibit the use of plastic microbeads. However, as one of biggest plastics producing and consuming contries, China has paid more attention to the prevention and control of plastic pollution. According to the research of relevant organizations, the microplastics pollution in inland freshwater of China is insufficient, and the pollution of some water bodies becomes more serious than the marine.

The harmful effects of plastic microbeads

Due to their small size, plastic materials not only cause some harm to aquatic ecosystem, but also pose a threat to human health. Studies have shown that plastic microbeads can be absorbed through the gut into the human lymphatic and circulatory systems, or even through the placenta into the fetus, causing harm to human health.[4]

Alternatives to using plastic microbeads in cosmetics

According to the current research, some companies have already switched to replacements. Some alternatives used by cosmetics companies are natural materials such as palm, jojoba, apricot kernels, cornmeal and walnut shells.In addition, Evonik Industries AG launched its sipernat silica-based microbeads that are replacement for polyethylene and polypropylene plastic microbeads in cosmetics and cleansing products.