“全球最佳”背后的文化基石

戚永晔

一封联合国世界旅游组织（UNWTO）的正式函件，近日越过辽阔的太平洋，飞到杭州市旅游委员会的信箱里。函件带来的，是一个让人振奋的好消息：杭州入选全球15个旅游最佳实践样本城市。入选的理由是旅游对城市产生的积极而卓越的社会文化影响。

翻开中华大辞典，对“旅游”一词的阐述很有意思：“‘旅是为了实现某一目的而在空间上的行进过程；‘游是外出观光、娱乐。”

所以，一个优秀的旅游目的地，必须有着让人进行“空间行进”的充分理由。而游客，作为这个“空间行进”的主体，无疑是旅游中最核心的要素。在杭州获评“全球最佳”的时刻，让我们来看看“游客”眼里的杭州吧。

外籍“游客”：喜欢杭州人的友好

见到来自南非的理查，是在2017西博会市民休闲节暨国际旅游节的现场。10月27日，来自国内外20个民俗表演团齐聚杭州西城广场，美国街舞、南非鼓乐、巴西桑巴舞轮番登场，苗族舞蹈、乐坊歌舞、杂技表演共同打造了一场视听盛宴，拉开了每年一度的西博会市民休闲节的序幕。

而理查，正是当天表演中的南非鼓乐手。对自己的族舞，理查显得很有自信：“我们的族舞包含着很多传统文化，而族舞的灵魂就是非洲鼓，因为即兴演奏也是非洲音乐的特色，而节奏是其主导者。我的家乡有很多优秀的鼓手，他们不但要全盘掌握每次演出音乐、舞蹈的功能，也要掌握观众和音乐的情绪。优秀的鼓手是受全族人爱戴和尊敬的。”

实际上，今年已经是理查第七次来杭州表演了，从第一届市民休闲节开始，他每年10月都会来到杭州：“在这里表演感觉很棒，因为杭州很漂亮，杭州市民也很热情。”

所以，在理查的眼里，杭州已经不止是一个工作目的地，更是一个独特的旅游胜地。工作之外，他总会留出两三天时间，在西湖边、在西溪湿地走走，用生硬的中文和杭州朋友们攀谈。他还喜欢杭州的酒吧：“我的好几个朋友都常年在杭州的酒吧里唱歌，杭州的观众听音乐都很认真，跳起舞的时候也很放得开，而且杭州的酒吧都装饰得很有味道，能体现这座城市的文化基因。”理查说。

事实上，像理查这样，因工作来到杭州，最后变成杭州的“游客”和粉丝的人还真不少。根据杭州市旅游委员会提供的数据，2016年全年，杭州接待外籍入境游客量高达358万人次，比上年增幅约为5%，创下历史新高。这对于一座900多万人口的城市来说，平均三个不到的市民就接待了一位外宾——这确实是让人惊讶的。共同入榜的日本著名旅游城市札幌，外籍游客的数量仅为99.4万人次，优势不言而喻。

而这些白皮肤、黄皮肤、黑皮肤的外宾，在感知了杭州的文化底蕴之后，又把这里的美、这里的秀、这里的真传播给更多亲朋好友和社交网站的信息中。这种全球范围内口口相传的美誉，也是杭州赢得“全球最佳”美誉的重要原因。

青年“游客”：喜欢杭州的休闲

“80后”东北姑娘禹佳则是另一种杭州“游客”。认识她是在杭州又一著名的文化演出品牌——西湖音乐节上。在外人看来，禹佳就是个女孩儿，在音乐节的人群中蹦跶、唱歌、嬉笑，脸上写满了这个年龄让人艳羡的青春、活力、热情。

但与她交流后，我才知道她的另一个身份——西湖风景名胜区花港管理处——也就是音乐节所在的太子湾公园场地“东家”的工作人员。

2008年，禹佳刚刚大学毕业，进入了与杭州旅游最息息相关的景区管委会工作。“留在杭州的理由很简单，这里很美，四年的大学生活还没过够，所以就选择了在这里工作。”而她工作第一年，就遇上了西湖音乐节这个她最喜欢的音乐节庆。

每年，禹佳都因为“工作之便”，把五月的一个周末“投入”西湖音乐节现场。在青山绿水间、在音乐为构架的社会空间里，禹佳与年轻人一起，为那些充满激情的音乐呐喊、为生活在杭州而“欢呼”。

“每次老家的朋友们来杭州旅游，我都会主动给他们做向导”禹佳说，朋友们都觉得她生活在杭州“太幸福”。而她自己，虽然因为工作忙，回家的机会不多，常常会想家，但是在杭州“作为一个幸福的游客”，其实挺不赖的。

事实上，如禹佳一般，因为喜欢杭州的生活环境而留在杭州的年轻人还有很多。阿里巴巴、网易等活跃的互联网企业也许是吸引他们的一个要素，但更多的，是杭州深厚的“休闲味道”——杭州的“最幸福感城市”“休闲美食之都”称号并非浪得虚名，风景秀丽、宜居宜游，是杭州公认的印象。

名人“游客”：喜欢杭州的情调

杭州的“游客”群中还有很多是名人。名闻遐迩的漫画家蔡志忠就是其中的一位，他一年12次飞杭州，每个月必去西溪湿地报到一次。他说，他随时有“老死在杭州”的打算。

见到蔡志忠是在他西溪湿地的工作室里，听说杭州获得“全球最佳”旅游实践样本城市的消息时，蔡志忠显得一点都不惊讶。他指着工作室外的“一曲溪流一曲烟”说：“你看，这样的地方，谁不爱来旅游？”

蔡志忠的工作室掩映在西溪的烟树碧水中，别墅内部的装修风格现代简约，偌大的客厅俨然成了他的个人作品陈列室，四周墙壁的书架上摆满了书籍。最吸引人的要数临水的露天阳台了，坐在这里，完全融进了西溪幽静美丽的湿地景致中，蔡志忠最喜欢在这里和客人品茶、喝咖啡、漫谈人生。

蔡志忠与杭州、与西溪的缘分，从十几年前就开始了。作为著名的漫画家，他参与了杭州中国国际动漫节的全程。2011年西溪花朝节开幕式上，蔡志忠专门为西溪湿地创作了“西溪与红楼梦”漫画，以生动简洁的线条呈现红楼梦与西溪文化的淵源；2012年12月，由蔡志忠工作室和腾讯网合作的腾讯原创动漫基地在西溪创意产业园举行挂牌仪式，之后，蔡志忠还为“星漫奖”的获奖作者开办了首届动漫培训学院，地点就在他的西溪工作室；2013年5月，“你是我的蔡”蔡志忠从业50周年纪念媒体见面会在他的西溪工作室举行，蔡志忠“学生必读国学漫画”系列图书也在本次活动中隆重推出；2013年5月28日，蔡志忠作客西溪“讲书茶会”，和书友一起品茶，并分享了自己的人生感悟……endprint

而他本人，從一开始的“工作顺便在杭州玩”，慢慢变成了“偶尔来杭州度假”，又变成了“每年定期常驻杭州”；他的身份，也从游客、度假客变成了半个杭州人。

蔡志忠并非“长居杭州”的名人个例，今天，在湿地公园东北角的西溪创意产业园，共入驻了余华、麦家、赖声川、杨澜、潘公凯等18位名人，他们在此寓居卜筑、诗画歌咏，与西溪的风光美景相映成趣。

而杭州作为“全球最佳”，除了人文风情、休闲特色之外，留居此地的名人大师们让优秀文化艺术力量源源不断地汇聚杭州，使这里成为中国的“人才高地”和“艺术高地”。

如联合国世界旅游组织（UNWTO）对杭州的评价：“杭州始终坚持‘游客至上、以人为本、面向国际的城市旅游发展理念。”这十二字发展理念，深刻体现出了杭州作为旅游胜地的内在文化基石。

A letter from United Nation World Tourism Organization to Hangzhou Tourism Commission announced that Hangzhou was elected as one of the 15 top-performing tourism cities in 2017. The UNWTO released the list of 15 cities on October 15. The other award winners include Antwerp， Berlin， Buenos Aires， Bogota， Beijing， Cape Town， Copenhagen， Linz， Marrakech， Seoul， Sapporo， Turin， Tianjin and Tokyo.

Richard

I met Richard from South Africa at an event venue during the 2017 West Lake Leisure Festival and International Tourism Festival on 27 October. Over 20 folk art troupes performed at Xicheng Square. He was a drummer for the dance his troupe performed. In fact， it was his seventh visit to the city. The troupe from South Africa has favored the annual festival in October over the last 7 years.

“It is great to perform here. Hangzhou is beautiful and people here are warm-hearted and friendly，” commented the drummer. For him， the city is more than a destination of a work tour. It is an ideal tourism destination for him to unwind himself. He chooses to stay in the city for two or three days after the work is over， sightseeing around and chatting with locals in his not so good Chinese. He also loves bars in the city. “Some singer friends of mine work in bars in Hangzhou all the year round. Local people listen attentively and dance wildly， my friends told me. The bars in the city are fine decorated， representing the citys cultural genes，” commented Richard.

There are many foreigners like Richard. They come to Hangzhou to work and fall in love with the city and do a lot of sightseeing around. Data from Hangzhou Tourism Commission indicates that the city received 3.58 million inbound tourists from overseas in 2016， up 5% year on year. Hangzhou has established its reputation as a great tourism destination over years. More and more tourists are coming from overseas. They like what they see and experience here. The reputation keeps spreading.endprint

Yu Jia

I met Yu Jia at West Lake Music Festival. She was of many girls singing and waving and chanting and laughing among the audience. She works as an employee at the lakeside Prince Bay Park. Upon her graduation from college in 2008， she got herself employed at Hangzhou Scenic Zone Administration. “I chose to stay in Hangzhou simply because the four college years were far from enough for me，” she explained. It was in the first year as an employee at Prince Bay that she found West Lake Music Festival. Since then， she has dedicated a weekend in May to the festival at Prince Bay. For her relatives， she is just a happy tourist staying all the year round in a great tourist destination. She takes them around on sightseeing tours whenever they come to visit her.

Again， there are many such so called tourists as Yu Jia in Hangzhou. They take to the beauty of the city and stay to be tourists forever in the city. Ask those working at Alibaba， for example， and you will know. The biggest attraction of the city is more than the natural beauty. It is a scenic and historical and cultural city where nature and man are one and life goes at a leisurely pace.

Tsai Chih Chung

Of the celebrities who love Hangzhou， Taiwan-based cartoonist Tsai Chih Chung is typical. He comes to Hangzhou 12 times a year， to work at his art studio at Xixi National Wetland. The 69-year-old says he is ready to die here happily. I visited him at his studio nestled in the scenic wetland. After learning about Hangzhou picked as one of the top-performing tourism cities， he commented that he wasnt surprised at all. He pointed to the scene out of the large window， asking rhetorically “who wouldnt want to travel all the way to view such sights.”

The villa studio is decorated in a minimalist style. The sitting room serves as a library with bookshelves on four walls. His cartoon-styled books are on display. His bonding with Hangzhou started more than a decade ago. As a famed cartoonist， he has attended all the China International Cartoon & Animation Festival since the inception of the festival in Hangzhou 2005. He has shifted part of his workload to the studio in Hangzhou. At first， he just enjoyed flying in and working and having some fun occasionally. Then his visits became longer vacations in Hangzhou. Eventually he has come to work a regular workload in Hangzhou.

There are many celebrities like him in Hangzhou. The wetland is also home to studios for celebrities such as novelists Yu Hua and Mai Jia， theater director Stan Lai， television producer Yang Lan and artist Pan Gongkai.endprint