南方有嘉木

文/五花肉

南方有嘉木

A Magnificent Tree Growing in the South

文/五花肉

茶，始于中国，贵为“国饮”，与可可、咖啡并称为世界三大饮品。关于茶的文字记载最早出现在《神农本草》当中，“神农尝百草，日遇七十二毒，得荼（即茶）而解之”。在此后4 000多年的历史长河中，茶的品类不断丰富，宴饮之道日趋规范，形成了许多独具地域特色的茶文化。茶，成为了具有世界影响力的大众饮品。

Tea, originating from China, is known as the national beverage. Tea, cocoa and coffee are considered as the world's three major beverages. As Shennong's Classic of Materia Medica mentioned, Shennong ever suffered 72

poisons in tasting hundreds of herbs and found tea was the detoxifcation, which is the earliest record of tea. Over the next four thousand years, tea becomes more diverse and tea ceremonies become more standardized. As a result, it forms numerous tea cultures with local characteristics. Tea, hence, becomes pervasive over the globe.

从祭品到茶食

From Tribute to Food

自被神农发现茶具有解毒功效后，茶就开始成为早期世人用于祭祀的供品。《周礼・地》中有“掌茶”和“聚茶”以供丧事之用的记载。

Tea began to serve as tributes in China since its disintoxicating effect had been discovered by Shennong. There are some records of the tea's usage for the funerals in the chapter Offices of Earth of Rites of Zhou.

到了春秋时期，茶的食品属性开始受到重视。《晏子春秋》记载晏婴身为齐国国相，喜食“茗菜”，“晏相齐景公时，食脱粟之食，炙三格五卵，茗菜而已”。此时，茶的食用虽仍处于初期阶段，“掌茶”和“聚茶”的基本规范却日渐成熟，为后续茶道的发展奠定了标准化的基础。

The food attribute of tea did not be valued until the Spring and Autumn Period. The Spring and Autumn Annals of Master Yan recorded: When Yan Ying was a prime minister in ancient state of Qi, he ate nothing but millet, a few poultry and eggs, and some tea food. At that time, tea, as the food, still remained at the initial development stage. However, as the tribute, its basic norm had been gradually matured, paving a way to standardization in Teaism.

从宫廷到民间

From Court to Folk

西汉后期到三国时代，茶逐渐成为宫廷的高级饮品。汉代《赵飞燕别传》中，有一节关于饮茶的记载，“适吾梦中见帝，帝自云中赐吾坐，帝命进茶。”

From the Late Western Han Dynasty to the Three Kingdoms Period, tea gradually became the premium beverage in the royal. In Han Dynasty, Biography of Zhao Feiyan mentioned that I dreamt of the emperor and I was granted to be seated and a cup of tea.

到了唐代，茶饮已深入民间。此时，有关于茶的专著陆续出现，最为知名的是陆羽的《茶经》，“茶者，南方之嘉木也”。同时，陆羽将普通饮茶升格为一种美妙的文化艺能，谓之“茶道”。

In Tang Dynasty, tea became popular among the folks. Monographs on tea came out successively. Lu Yu's TheClassic of Tea was the most notable one. Tea, is the magnificent tree growing in the South, Lu Yu noted in his book. At the same time, Lu Yu turned tea drinking into a wonderful art and called it Teaism.

茶道要遵循一定的规矩。唐代为克服九难，即造、别、器、火、水、炙、末、煮、饮。宋代为三点与三不点品茶，“三点”：新茶、甘泉、洁器为一，天气好为一，风流儒雅、气味相投的佳客为一；反之，为“三不点”。

One must follow certain rules and standards of Teaism. In Tang Dynasty, standards were developed in nine aspects including tea processing; quality discrimination; tea set; fire; water; roasting; grinding; boiling; and drinking .In Song Dynasty, three were "three dos and three don'ts" rules. The "three dos" rules, namely selecting fresh tea, fountain water and clean tea set; drinking in a good weather and accompanying guests of elegance and friendship.On the contrary, there were " three don'ts" principles.

从中国到世界

From China to the World

“茶道大兴，王公朝士无不饮者”，唐代茶文化大兴，通过贸易、交流等渠道传播到世界各地。比如日本茶道，即得于唐，后举国上下盛行饮茶之风，并在修行人所追求的精神境界中，将茶道进一步提纯为一门“和、敬、清、寂”的禅

门艺术，禅茶一味，道在茶中行。

Teaism prevailed, and the nobility and the imperial court officials all drank tea. In Tang Dynasty, tea culture was very popular, and spread to the rest of the world via trade and communication. For example, Japanese Teaism was influenced by the Tang Dynasty, and then the habit of drinking tea penetrated people's daily life quickly. The Japanese Teaism had been further refined as an art of Zen featuring harmony, respect, limpidness and quietness in the spiritual realm pursued over time with self-cultivation. Thus a subtle blend of tea and Zen was formed, the Teaism fully embodied in the tea art.

结 语

Conclusion

茶，不仅为世人带来口感上的愉悦，更在发展传承中进化成为精神上的享受，是为道也。在地域文化和仪式规范的双重滋润下，茶道逐渐从东方走向世界，成为重要的文化图腾之一。

Not only does the tea boast delightful taste but also it gives us spiritual enjoyment of Teaism during the development and inheritance. Teaism is spread over the world from the East with the influence of regional cultures and ceremonial rules, and becomes a typical cultural icon of the eastern world.

（支持单位：上海市质量和标准化研究院）