铁路上的慢时光

2017-04-26

空中之家 2017年5期

铁路上的慢时光

GREAT RAILWAY JOURNEYS DOWN UNDER

In an era when speed is paramount, it’s reassuring to step into the slow lane to admire the countryside through the panoramic windows of a train. Nihao heads Down Under to travel on several iconic railways in Australia and New Zealand.

Text & Photos by David Bowden Translation by Emma Xu

在快餐文化盛行的时代，来一场悠然的旅行，透过列车车窗领略乡间美景，享受令人安心的幸福。《Nihao》深入澳新地区，带您一同开启经典铁路之旅。

The TranzAlpine travels over the Waimakariri Bridge.阿尔卑斯号列车穿行于怀马卡里里桥。

Indian Pacific train.印第安大西洋号列车。Lounge car.列车休息室。

The Indian Pacific

Its 28 carriages stretch the length of seven football fields and the train travels 4,352 kilometres on its four-day journey from Perth in Western Australia to Sydney in New South Wales.

This isn't just one of the great railways Down Under but one of the world's epic journeys stretching across the continent of Australia. The Indian Pacific is the world's second longest rail journey after the Trans-Siberian Railway and passes through three time zones.

Completed in 1917, the train is part of the Great Southern Rail network, which also operates The Ghan (Darwin to Adelaide) and The Overland (Adelaide to Melbourne). In October 1917, a team working from the east met another team laying track from the west to complete the railway. However, it still required six train changes to accommodate different rail gauges in place. Gauges were standardised decades later and in 1970, an uninterrupted railway across Australia was completed between the Indian and Pacific Oceans.

The Indian Pacific is luxuriously appointed to accommodate 202 passengers and travel packages include all-inclusive dining, beverages and excursions. Restaurant cars have adjoining lounges and bars serving complimentary beverages. Each evening, cabin seats are converted to beds for a relaxing sleep.

Trains depart from Perth on Sunday morning and arrive in Sydney on Wednesday. Stops on the west to east journey include Kalgoorlie where passengers detrain for an excursion. Formed after gold was discovered in 1893, it's now home to the Super Pit, a huge open mine.

On day two, the train stops at Rawlinna Station and passengers disembark for breakfast in the open. Rawlinna is Australia's largest sheep station of one million hectares and 70,000 sheep. Later, the train travels across the parched Nullarbor Plain along the world's longest straight single-track railway of 478 kilometres.

In the afternoon the train arrives into Cook for passengers to inspect this ghost town with four residents. Cook closed in 1997 with the railway's privatisation and is now just a refuelling stop. However, during the steam train era, it 'boomed' with 300 residents, a school, church, pub, pool and gaol.

On the morning of day three, the train inches into Adelaide and passengers opt for various city tours. Those travelling from east to west enjoy an extended stay in Adelaide with a tour of Barossa Valley wineries offered.

After leaving Adelaide, the train travels to Broken Hill, still 1,207 km west of Sydney. Minerals were discovered in nearby Silverton in 1875 and in Broken Hill in 1893 and the region became the world's richest silver, lead and zinc deposit.

Several movies have been filmed here with the Silverton Hotel being popular as a backdrop for Mad Max 2 (1982) and Mission Impossible 11 (2000).

On the morning of day four, the train passes the vast Blue Mountains National Park before arriving in Sydney.

Indian Pacific crossing the Nullabor Plain. 在纳拉伯平原上行驶的印第安大西洋号列车。

印第安大西洋号列车

印第安大西洋号列车从珀斯开往悉尼，全程4352公里，线路长度位居世界第二。列车配置豪华，提供包含各色美食及短途行程的旅游套餐。

周日早晨，列车从珀斯出发，次日将停靠罗林纳站。罗林纳是澳大利亚最大的养羊场，有一望无垠的草场和成群的绵羊。下午，列车会在“鬼镇”库克暂停，游客可到镇内观光。第三日，列车驶入阿德莱德，停车期间，旅客们可去市区游玩，或前往巴罗莎谷酒庄参观。第四日，列车路过广袤的蓝山国家公园之后，抵达悉尼。

The Spirit of Queensland

Australia's vast tropical state of Queensland has several iconic train journeys including the Spirit of Queensland, which offers one of the best ways to appreciate the coastal scenery on its 1,680 kilometres journey from Brisbane in the south onto coastal Cairns in the north.

Queensland is considered Australia's holiday state and adventurous travellers can hop on and off the train discovering amazing destinations onshore and offshore at Maryborough (Fraser Island), Rockhampton, Proserpine (Airlie Beach) and Townsville along the way.

Passengers can travel in style on railbeds (seat/bed) with in-seat dining included or in sit-up seats while enjoying food and beverages from the club car.

Once in Cairns, an essential trip is to catch the Kuranda Scenic Railway up the escarpment to Kuranda village 330 metres above Cairns to admire the cool air and the alternate and quirky markets here. The other 'must do' marine trip is to explore the Great Barrier Reef.

West Coast Wilderness Railway

Many railways began as a means to extract resources such as minerals and timber from remote areas and there are few places as remote as Tasmania's rugged West Coast blanketed in ancient rainforests.

The West Coast Wilderness Railway carries tourists through pristine rainforests and beside rivers but began as a railway to transport minerals from Queenstown to the port of Strahan for export.

This heritage steam train also uses a rack and pinion system to climb steep gradients. Passengers can travel in the Wilderness Carriage to enjoy delicious Tasmanian produce including craft beers and ciders and premium wines on this full-day experience.

The Spirit of Queensland.昆士兰精神之旅。The West Coast Wilderness Train refuelling.正在补给燃料的西岸荒野列车。

The TranzAlpine

The TranzAlpine is New Zealand's most picturesque rail journey and one of the world's best. It was gold that spurred interest in charting a route across the Southern Alps of the South Island and now the TranzAlpine tourist train is the big attraction. It heads west from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass, Otira and Moana before terminating in Greymouth on the Tasman Sea, a journey of 224 kilometres taking five hours. Wide glacier-fed rivers dissect the plains with the best views from the open-sided observation car as the train skirts the southern floodplain of the braided Waimakariri River. The train ascends the Southern Alps to Arthur's Pass at an altitude of 740 metres. West Coast topography and vegetation on the descent from the Southern Alps is markedly different to the Alps with lush rainforest thriving in deep river valleys.

TranzAlpine in winter. 阿尔卑斯号列车。

昆士兰拥有几条颇负盛名的火车路线，其中就有“昆士兰精神”。“昆士兰精神”起于布里斯班，止于凯恩斯，爱猎奇的旅客可饱览海岸动人风光。

除了分外清凉的空气，凯恩斯的库兰达小镇还有值得一逛的特色集市。此外，去大堡礁探险一番，也是不可多得的趣事。

西岸荒野铁路

塔斯马尼亚西岸隐匿于古老的原始雨林中，此前负责运矿的西岸荒野铁路列车变身观光列车，为旅客们揭开原始雨林的神秘面纱。

列车的荒野车厢全天供应精酿啤酒、苹果酒、葡萄酒等塔斯马尼亚特色饮品。

阿尔卑斯号列车

马克思的劳动概念不应该仅仅被理解为一种谋生性质的物质生产，我们应该看到在人类物质生产劳动之中，马克思对人类劳动的理解蕴含的人类自由发展和自我实现的维度。胚胎在母体中生长为完全体之前就具备完全体的所有特征。种子在土壤中吸收养分成长为参天大树前就具备大树的所有特点。在《资本论》中，马克思一起手谈人类劳动时便赋予了人类劳动一种人类解放与自由的力量。

新西兰阿尔卑斯号列车所经之路的风光冠绝世间。南阿尔卑斯山脉的旅游路线规划一经问世便备受瞩目，如今有机会乘坐列车穿越南岛壮丽的南阿尔卑斯山，委实令人神往。

列车将绕过纵横交错的涝原，沿着怀马卡里里河前行，途中有冰川河纵贯平原的奇景。

The Northern Explorer

Unlike Australia, New Zealand is a small country and while sleeper beds once existed on some New Zealand trains, current journeys are day trains. Most of these journeys make maximum advantage of the country's stunning scenery with The Northern Explorer from the capital Wellington to Auckland (and vice versa) being New Zealand's longest rail journey.

It departs from Wellington's grand station located near the picturesque harbour and heads up the rugged West Coast of the North Island before making its way through rolling farming land and past the volcanic peaks of Mount Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe located in Tongariro National Park in the middle of the island. Understandably, some passengers alight from the train here to enjoy summer and winter adventures such as skiing, rafting, mountain biking and hiking. Others are content to relax in the comfort of the train with its expansive panoramic windows to admire the everchanging landscape.

Taieri Gorge Railway

It's been billed as one of the world's great rail journeys and few passengers disagree as they enjoy the picturesque scenery from the tourist train travelling from the gracious Dunedin Railway Station on New Zealand's South Island through the rugged Taieri Gorge to either Pukerangi (four hours) or Middlemarch (six hours).

Dunedin Railway Station opened in 1906 is New Zealand's most photographed building. It was designed as the jewel in the New Zealand Railway's crown in the city that was then the nation's commercial centre.

This trip appeals because of the variety of landscapes it passes in a short time. In four hours the Dunedin to Pukerangi train passes through urban Dunedin, across lush farmlands and then through the rugged gorge carved out by the Taieri River. Pukerangi is the terminus for the shorter journey and here passengers are able to admire the countryside located at just 250 metres above sea level.

Glenbrook Vintage Railway

Located just 45 minutes from Auckland International Airport this railway offers the steam train experience that everybody longs for. Steam trains of the Glenbrook Vintage Railway capture the excitement of a bygone era when the shrill of the train whistle and the huffing and puffing of coal-powered trainsbelching black smoke out into the atmosphere were an everyday affair.

Porirua Harbour from the Northern Explorer train.在北部探索者列车欣赏到的沿途美景。

Staff dressed in period uniforms and heritage carriages add to the authenticity of a day in the countryside for the journey that links Glenbrook to the village of Waiuku where passengers can alight to explore its heritage buildings. Special 'A Day Out with Thomas' weekends are organised in March and November especially for children to enjoy a trip with a train decorated as 'Thomas the Tank Engine'.

Bay of Islands Vintage Railway

Up in the small town of Kawakawa in New Zealand's Bay of Islands another steam train injects a little magic into the lives of the locals and tourists who ride on the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway.

'Gabriel', the Class 4-4-0 steam locomotive number 1730 built by Thomas Peckett in Bristol, is the only one of its kind and is also unique in that it passes down the main street of Kawakawa before travelling through rolling pasturelands to the banks of the Kawakawa River and the historic Long Bridge.

Many trains in Australia and New Zealand are dependent upon volunteers who give up their free time so that everyone can enjoy the excitement of a bygone era. Choosing to ride on these trains while on holidays helps contribute to keeping these old railways alive so that we can all enjoy the thrill of railway travel.

Taieri Gorge Railway on a viaduct.

高架桥上的泰伊里峡谷铁路

Vintage diesel loco Glenbrook Vintage Railway.

格兰布鲁克复古柴油机车。

Kawakawa Station Bay of Islands Vintage Railway.

岛屿湾复古铁路的卡瓦卡瓦站。

China Southern Airlines flies to Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Brisbane, Auckland and Christchurch.

中国南方航空已开通飞往悉尼、墨尔本、阿德莱德、珀斯、布里斯班、奥克兰及基督城的航线。

北部探索者之旅

北部探索者之旅是新西兰最长的火车线路，往返于奥克兰与惠灵顿之间，沿途的美景绝对让旅客不虚此行。

路上，列车会深入崎岖的北岛西岸，驶过绵延起伏的农田，跨越苍茫的火山高原。旅客可以下车开启冒险之旅，去滑雪、漂流或骑行，也可以继续待在车厢内，怡然自得地观赏窗外的风景。

泰伊里峡谷铁路