美少女战士裙子的秘密

Anne+Zacardelli+孙梦光

你是否也跟全世界其他不计其数的女孩一样为美少女战士的裙子而痴迷？那么漂亮的裙子设计灵感从何而来？穿法有何讲究？又蕴含着怎样的文化意义呢？本文将为你一一揭晓。

Every superhero needs two things： super powers and a super awesome costume. The costume defines superheroes in many ways—who they fight for， where they come from—even their name. The massively popular anime2） heroine Sailor Moon is no different. Based on the sailor uniform worn by Japanese schoolgirls， Sailor Moon's iconic costume identifies her as a Japanese girl. But how did Japanese girls come to wear this uniform？ What does it mean to Japanese girls？ The answers may surprise you！

1 American women wore it first.

While the sailor uniform can trace its history to the British navy， it was American women who inspired the trend in Japan. In 1902， female students at Smith College3） wore sailor collars and bloomers4） which were easy to move in. Educator AkuriInokuchi brought the style back to Japan and her students did the same. However， the sailor uniform didn't really take off until 1922， when Japanese students wanted to emulate5） the style of their American headmistress， Elizabeth Lee. A local garment factory started to mass produce the uniforms.

2 High school girls don't wear sailor uniforms.

When the series starts， Sailor Moon， or Serena/Usagi Tsukino， is a middle school student and wears a sailor uniform that is royal blue with white stripes. However， in the final season， Sailor Stars， Usagi and her friends finally enter high school. Her high school uniform is now dark blue with red stripes. However， in Japan， sailor uniforms are reserved for middle school students. High school students wear a sweater vest or blazer6） with their skirts.

3 Watch out for school girls with cropped tops and long skirts！

At school， Sailor Moon and her friends wear sailor uniforms consisting of knee length skirts and shirts covering their belly button. In other words， they're normal girls. But in the 1970s in Japan， female gang members would wear cropped tops and long skirts down to their ankles. You can see this reflected in uniforms of anime characters such as former gang member Arisa Uotani in Fruits Basket.

Don't worry if you're wearing a long skirt in Japan nowadays though. The stereotype may be a fun homage to the 1970s in modern anime but no one's going to accuse you of being in a gang now if they see you walking down the street with a long skirt on.

每个超级英雄都需要两样东西：超能力和一套超炫的服装。这套服装也从很多方面（他们为谁而战，他们来自哪里）为超级英雄做着注解，甚至也注解了他们的名字。广受欢迎的日本动漫女超人美少女战士水手月亮也是如此。水手月亮的标志性服装是以日本女学生穿的水手制服为设计基础的，这就决定了她是一个日本女孩。但日本女孩们为什么会穿这身制服呢？这对她们来说意味着什么？答案或许会让你吃惊！

1 美国女性率先穿起这种制服。

虽然水手制服的历史可追溯到英国的海军，但水手制服在日本的流行却是美国女性激发的。1902年，史密斯学院的女学生们穿起了水手衣领和便于活动的灯笼短裤。教育工作者亚久莉井栗把这种风格带回了日本，她的学生们也照着穿起来。然而，水手制服直到1922年才真正流行起来，当时日本学生想要效仿她们的美国女校长伊丽莎白·李的穿衣风格。当地的一个服装厂便开始批量生产这种制服。

2 高中女生并不穿水手制服。

这一系列动画刚开始时，水手月亮（或者叫塞丽娜/月野兔）是个初中生，穿着带有白色条纹的品蓝色水手制服。但在最后一季《美少女战士最后的星光》中，月野兔和她的朋友们终于上了高中，这时她的高中校服是深蓝底红条纹的。但在日本，水手制服是仅限初中生穿的。高中生要穿毛衣背心或运动上衣，下面配裙子。

3 小心穿露脐上衣配长裙的女生！

在学校里，水手月亮和她的朋友们穿的水手制服包括长度及膝的裙子和盖住肚脐的上衣。换句话说，她们是普通女生。但在20世纪70年代的日本，女帮会成员会穿露脐上衣和长到脚踝的裙子。你会发现这一点在日本动漫角色的制服上有所体现，比如《水果篮子》里前帮会成员鱼股卯绪。

不过现在你如果在日本穿长裙也不必担心。在现代动漫中，这种老套着装可能是对70年代的一种有趣的致敬，但如果人们看到你穿着一条长裙走在街上，不再会有人指责你是帮会成员。

4 There's a whole museum dedicated to uniforms in Japan.

The Tombow Uniform Museum is located in Okayama， right across from the Tombow school uniform factory. In fact， the majority of school uniforms manufactured in Japan come from Okayama. The museum also includes a photo of the first Japanese school girl sailor uniform from 1920.

5 Sailor Moon doesn't have just one costume.

She powers up to get two more！ You'll see Sailor Moon wear her iconic red and blue costume for the first three seasons of the anime. In the third season， Sailor Moon powers up to Super Sailor Moon by using the Holy Grail7）. Her costume keeps the original color scheme， but adds embellishments to her shoulders， waist and skirt. In the final season， her costume undergoes an even more drastic change. Usagi powers up to Eternal Sailor Moon， her most powerful form and most elaborate costume. Eternal Sailor Moon has three layers of skirts， white boots， pink puffy8） sleeves and to top it all off9）—wings！

6 The sailor uniform signifies freedom and possibilities.

While a sailor uniform may mean a charming and attractive heroine to many anime fans， the uniform means much more to Japanese girls and women. The sailor uniform reminds them of their time in school， a time without the pressures of work， marriage and children. So it's no wonder that Sailor Moon is a champion of the hopes and dreams of young girls！

4 日本有一整座专门的制服博物馆。

蜻蜓制服博物馆位于日本冈山，正对着蜻蜓校服制造厂。实际上，日本产的大部分校服都来自冈山。博物馆里还收藏着1920年日本女学生的第一套水手制服照片。

5 水手月亮的制服可不止一套。

水手月亮升级会多两套制服！在动漫的前三季中，你会看到她穿着标志性的红蓝制服。在第三季中，她使用圣杯变身为超级水手月亮。这时制服的配色设计没有变，但肩部、腰部和裙子上都加了装饰品。最后一季中，她的制服经历了更大的变化。月野兔变身为永恒水手月亮，这是她最强大的形态，这时的制服也最精致。永恒水手月亮有三层裙子、白色战靴、粉色的泡泡袖，最棒的是，还有翅膀！

6 水手制服意味着自由和可能性。

对于许多动漫爱好者来说，水手制服或许意味着迷人又好看的女主角，但对日本女孩和女性它却意味着更多。水手制服让她们想起了自己的校园时光，那段没有工作压力、婚姻和孩子的时光。因此，也难怪水手月亮是年轻女孩们希望和梦想的捍卫者！

日本：国民文化的一部分

日本校服质量和做工都是一流的，并以时尚著称，校服不仅是学校的标志，而且是时髦的象征，日本校服已经成为其国民文化的重要组成部分。日本女生校服基本以水手服、短裙和长袜为主，男生则是中山装或西装制服。部分学校甚至还会统一外套、背包和鞋的款式。

韩国：明星代言校服

韩国男生校服大多是白衬衫和西装裤，女生通常是白衬衫加花格子百褶裙和蝴蝶结。韩国校服注重质量和品牌，很多校服制造商都不惜花重金邀请当红青春偶像作代言人。

英国：校服经典款的起源

经典校服起源于英国，以教会学校和贵族学校为代表，当时已经具有制服、礼服、运动服、学位服等分类。英国校服款式经典、简洁，男生为正统西装、正规皮鞋，需要佩戴领带；女生也是统一的西式正统服装、正规女式皮鞋，并且必须佩戴领花。

美国：学校自行决定

除教会学校和部分私立学校外，美国的公立学校都不要求学生穿校服。不过学校还是会在学生毕业时准备统一的服装，让学生以统一的形象参加毕业典礼、拍集体照。1996年，美国前总统克林顿提出统一中小学生校服，但因遭到反对而未实施，美国各州教育行政部门建议学校自行决定是否统一校服。