解读返璞归真的穿搭风潮
2015-05-18
The latest fashion trend “normcore” isnt all that fashionable: it celebrates the average and normal.
Any old sneakers or sandals; a denim shirt or a black turtleneck, like Steve Jobs; a zip-up fleece; or a roomy (not baggy) pair of jeans. If you wear any of these, you are the fashion icon of the day, even though you may not be interested in fashion at all.
On social networks, normcore is the Internet meme of the year. Normcore was featured in fashion magazines like GQ and Vogue.
The word was first coined by a New York fashion trend-forecasting agency called K-Hole, which recently released the report Youth Mode: A Report on Freedom.
“Normcore finds liberation in being nothing special, and realizes that adaptability leads to belonging,” announced K-Hole. The basic idea, according to a New York Times article, is that young people have devoted so much energy to trying to define themselves as individuals, that they have lost the joy of belonging that comes with being part of the group.
Normcore is about letting go of pretenses and learning to throw yourself into whatever subcultures or activities you stumble into, even if they are mainstream. “You might not understand the rules of football, but you can still get a thrill from the roar of the crowd at the World Cup,” the K-Hole report read.
最新时尚潮流“normcore”(舒适搭配)并非一味讲究时髦,而是宣扬简单和舒适。
一双旧球鞋或凉鞋、丹宁衬衫或者斯蒂夫·乔布斯式的黑色高领毛衣、拉链羊毛衫或者宽松牛仔裤(并非松垮肥大的那种)。即使你对时尚一窍不通,只要配上其中任何一件单品,你就会化身为时尚达人。
在一些社交网络上,“normcore”成为年度“网络热词”。GQ和Vogue等时尚杂志对“舒适搭配”都进行了特别报道。
这一词汇由纽约时尚潮流预测机构K-Hole首创,该机构近日发布了一篇名为《年轻模式:自由报告》的报道。
“Normcore就是从平淡无奇中寻求自由,通过适应来获得归属感。”这正是K-Hole宣称的理念。《纽约时报》在一篇文章中称,“normcore”的基本理念:年轻人总是费尽心思让自己与众不同,却失去了随众而带来的乐趣。
“Normcore”就是要摒弃假面伪装,学会融入你无意间接触到的任何亚文化或活动,即使有随波逐流之嫌。“你或许不懂足球规则,但你仍然可以在观看世界杯时随着咆哮的人群而兴奋不已,”K-Hole的报道中写道。
Casual perfection
随性的完美
The agency described normcore as more of a sociological attitude. But shortly after the release of the report, New York Times magazine ran a piece that established normcore as a fashion trend, calling it “fashion for those who know theyre one in seven billion”.
The concept of normcore is all about the joy of the ordinary, and it has struck a chord with many people. Alain de Botton, the British writer and philosopher, thinks it makes a lot of sense.
“Normcore is the search for the ideal,” he said in an interview with Newsweek. “The perfect T-shirt, like the perfect pencil or table, doesnt need to be constantly updated because it has latched on to the essence of what its trying to do. Humans like one-off ideals: one god, one partner. That urge sometimes washes over into clothes: one type of T-shirt. The better the design, the less it needs to change. Even those in the fashion industry are readily admitting they see the appeal of normcore.
US Vogues contributing editor Plum Sykes was quoted by Newsweek as saying, “Wearing ‘fashion all the time gets too much—and it demands too much attention.”
Richard Nicoll, a London-based designer and creative director at the casual clothes chain Jack Will, also sang its praises: “Normcore says, ‘I have soul and intelligence. Im unique and I dont need to shout about it.”
K-Hole公司将“normcore”描述成一种社会态度。而该文章刚刚发表不久,《纽约时代》杂志就对“normcore”进行了报道,将它确立为一种时尚潮流,称其为“清楚自己是七十亿人类一份子的时尚”。
“Normcore”宣扬的是来自平凡的快乐,这种观念打动了很多人的心。英国作家兼哲学家阿兰·德·波兰认为这个词意味深长。
“‘Normcore是对完美的追求,”他在接受美国《新闻周刊》采访时说道。完美的T恤就如同完美的铅笔或桌子,无须时常更新换代,因为它已经将本质发挥得淋漓尽致了。人类对绝无仅有的完美情有独钟:唯一的神,唯一伴侣。该主张有时也会对服饰造成影响:独一无二的经典款T恤。设计越好,就越经典不变。即使那些时尚业内人士也对“normcore”的魅力津津乐道。
《新闻周刊》援引Vogue美国版特约编辑普拉姆·赛克斯的一句话:“一如既往的时尚穿着负担太重,需要太多的关注。”
作为休闲服饰连锁品牌杰克·威尔的设计师兼创意总监,来自伦敦的理查德·尼考尔对这时尚趋势也赞不绝口:“Normcore宣扬的是,‘我有灵魂和智慧,我是独一无二的,而我无须大声张扬。”