Modeling the World

By YIN PUMIN

By YIN PUMIN

Modeling the World

By YIN PUMIN

Chinese models still have a long way to go

A Chinese debutante garnered most of the limelight at the annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in New York in November last year. He Sui, a newcomer to the modeling world, was the focus of many photographers as the dark haired beauty walked down the runway in a mermaid inspired ensemble.

He was followed by another Chinese supermodel Liu Wen onto the stage. Liu broke the mold at Victoria’s Secret in 2009, becoming the frst “Asian Angel”to take part in the company’s lingerie event.

The growing profile of Chinese models in the fashion world is creating a stir. The just-concluded 2012 New York, London, Milan and Paris spring/summer fashion weeks saw a host of established Chinese faces as well as fresh models from China.

“We are making history everyday,”said Liu, who is widely considered to be among the country’s top models.

White European models have dominated the runways and magazines of the high-end fashion industry for decades. But as China becomes an increasingly important market for luxury goods, major fashion houses have begun to pay more attention to Chinese models.

“In the past, Chinese and other Asian models were invited to participate in thematic shows with oriental elements. But today, more brands employ Chinese models as their global ambassadors,” said Yao Ge, General Manager of modeling agency China Bentley Culture Development Co. Ltd.

Going international

Modeling as a profession has become established in China in the past 20 years. Chinese models have stormed the world stage from 2009 to 2011.

Du Juan was China’s frst supermodel. The world’s fashion stage opened up to Du when she became the frst Asian cover girl ofVoguemagazine in 2006. The next year, she appeared in the spring/summer shows of the biggest names in fashion, including Louis Vuitton, YSL, Chanel, Valentino and Givenchy. She became the frst Asian model to be featured inTimemagazine in 2007, leaving the Chinese fashion media slackjawed.

Liu Wen, who made her name as the frst Asian Victoria’s Secret model, continued to push boundaries for Asian models. Liu was named the global spokesperson for Estée Lauder in 2010. Best known for her bright smile and sculpted, diamond-shaped cheekbones, the 179-cm supermodel was the frst Asian face recruited by the American beauty products powerhouse.

Liu attributes everything to fate, but her success is more than a matter of chance.

Liu is extremely hard working. The Chinese beauty began her modeling career in 2005 when she entered a local Chinese modeling contest to win a laptop. Following that success, she appeared in a number of advertising campaigns, runway shows and magazine editorial pages. Her success was such that the Chinese media nicknamed her Fashion Show Queen.

Even after she established herself as a fxture on the runways of New York, Milan and Paris, Liu continued to work equally hard and was reported to have participated in 74 catwalk shows in one month during last year’s autumn/winter fashion season. At the same time, she became the second Chinese woman, after Du, to be included in the World’s Top 50 Supermodels list compiled by Models.com. The 23-year-old is now ranked No.6 on the list, the highest ranking ever for an Asian model.

Another leading light in the Chinese modeling world, the 27-year-old Emma Pei, frst appeared at the Paris Fashion Week in 2007. At the Christian Dior Haute Couture spring/summer fashion show in 2008, fashion designer John Galliano took Pei’s hand, walked down the catwalk, and announced that she was his favorite model.

While Liu, Du and Pei have emerged as internationally renowned supermodels, still more Chinese models are rapidly rising to prominence.

Shu Pei, who is just 21, becomes well known on the catwalk circuit after signing with New York model agency Next Management in 2007. She walked in 22 shows at New York Fashion Week in 2008. In 2010, Style.com featured Shu as a top-10 newcomer.

ASIAN DOLL: Chinese model Sun Feifei walks the runway at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 fashion show during the Paris Fashion Week in October

Sun Feifei, who began her career in Europe in 2010, has already climbed to No.24 in Models.com ranking. Born in 1989, the “Asian doll” is now the face of the Dsquared2 Spring/Summer collection and the perfume Be Delicious by DKNY.

In addition to these names, dozens of other Chinese models are now making their present felt in the Western fashion world.

Oriental beauty

“All these models are aligned with traditional ideals of Oriental beauty—oval faces, wafer-thin body shapes and a demure aura. This makes them particularly fascinating on the catwalk,” said Yao.

What makes these models even more competitive than their predecessors is the internationally-oriented education they have received, said a modeling industry insider. Most of China’s leading models grew up in wealthy families and have no difficulty meeting the professional standards set by the Western fashion circuit.

However, despite the inroads being made by Chinese models, their success remains a tender shoot of diversity in an industry that has always been dominated by white models.

The infux of oriental models into haute couture is seen as a result of the growing spending power of Chinese consumers. Sensing an opportunity to cash in on the Chinese market, major design houses have begun featuring a handful of Chinese models in fashion weeks as a bid to boost their sales in China.

According to state media reports, Chinese models made 296 appearances for major design houses this year.

China’s market for luxury goods is expected to grow by 20 percent annually for the next 10 years, said a 2010 report compiled by the China Market Research Group (CMR), a Shanghai-based consulting company.

The size and promise of the Chinese market is changing perceptions in Western countries. “Luxury firms choose Chinese faces to represent them, to create emotional intimacy between their products and the Chinese consumers they are targeting,” said Shaun Rein, Managing Director of CMR.

Being challenged

As a celebration of their sixth anniversary,Vogue Chinacreated a foldout cover starring six of China’s models of the moment, including Du Juan, He Sui, Sun Feifei, Liu Wen, Xi Ming and Shu Pei, for its September issue.

While fashion publications in China have been enthusiastic about the success of these trailblazers, experts warned that these young models are still likely to face many challenges.

“Chinese models are always handicapped by their language skills. Most of them have never received any systematic language training,” said Li Xiaobai, Chairman of the China New Silk Road Models Organization, China’s frst and largest modeling agency.

When Liu Wen made her way into the Victoria’s Secret show in 2010, she introduced herself in English. Though not fuent, she won much praise for her efforts.

“I used to be afraid of speaking English while being interviewed,” she said. “But being able to communicate with others in English makes me feel more confdent about myself now.”

Mo Wandan, another Chinese model, takes a translator wherever she goes. “My Western workmates all think I am super rich, but that is the only way I can communicate with others,”Mo said.

Another obstacle is that successful Chinese models today all represent what Westerners call the“oriental look.”

“They lack versatility,” said Yi Lingna, Editor in Chief of fashion website onlylady.com. She also pointed out that there are few Chinese male models on the world stage.

“The lack of world-class Chinese clothing brands also prevents more Chinese models from entering the international fashion circuit,” said Li. In France, many models are promoted by Pierre Cardin, one of the world’s major clothing brands, onto the world fashion stage every year.

Meanwhile, Yao said that young women who aspire to a career on the catwalk will fnd competition for places on the international fashion stage become even fercer.

Modeling agencies are confronting the problem of oversupply as the number of Chinese models has grown. “After all, the exotic charm of Chinese models is still used as the icing on the cake in the fashion world,” Said Yao.

Domestic modeling agencies have been cooperating with their international counterparts such as DNA, IMG, Next, and Elite to promote Chinese models. But given the number of aspiring models and the demand of international agencies, the requirement for new models has risen.

“A mastery of English, a positive attitude, and some basic degree of social independence in addition to good looks are now prerequisites,” said Yao.

EXOTIC CHARM: Chinese supermodel Liu Wen poses at the annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in New York on September 9

By YIN PUMIN